#1

Restitutor Orbis
Never had a vintage before, I've been looking for a 1984 black beauty preferably NOS. (they say they don't come often but one can dream)

However I always see fatboys, flair tips, red tips, aristocrats etc and I am curious which ones of the classics have a consensus in our community of being the best?

I'd love to hear your insights so vintage noobs like me would know what to look for.

Thanks gents.
#2

Posting Freak
Canada
(This post was last modified: 06-22-2016, 03:22 PM by celestino.)
This is a very subjective question as each one of us may prefer one razor to another.

Having said this, I believe the Fatboy might be regarded as the most common and popular adjustable vintage razor.
It should shave very similarly to the Slim, but it will have a bit more weight to it.

Good luck in finding your NOS Slim. Shy

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Celestino
Love, Laughter & Shaving  Heart
#3

Member
Detroit
(This post was last modified: 06-22-2016, 03:32 PM by wyze0ne.)
My experience with vintage Gillettes starts and ends with the Super Speeds which I found too mild for my taste. All my other vintage razors are GEMsHeart and one Schick injector. However from what I've gathered from others' opinions, the Fatboy, Slim adjustable, Aristocrats and NEWs (both short and long comb) seem to be the most highly regarded ones.

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- Jeff
#4

Member
New Jersey
Gillette didn't make a bad razor back in the day. The super speeds are mild. The techs are very effective and inexpensive razors.... Also on the mild side.

I've recently been using a slim adjustable and an old type a lot. They are both great razors. I've heard the new is very good as well and I have one coming in the mail.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

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#5

Super Moderator
San Diego, Cal., USA
(06-22-2016, 03:21 PM)celestino Wrote: This is a very subjective question as each one of us may prefer one razor to another.

Having said this, I believe the Fatboy might be regarded as the most common and popular adjustable vintage razor.
It should shave very similarly to the Slim, but it will have a bit more weight to it.

Good luck in finding your NOS Slim.  Shy

Celestino's first comment says it all; it really is up to the individual.

Having said that , I must respectfully disagree with him about a Fatboy and Slim shaving very similarly except for the weight factor.  I much prefer the Slim over the Fatboy because I find the Fatboy's head rounder and higher and it simply does not give me as close a shave as the Slim or Super Adjustable which have slightly flatter heads.  Here again, this is strictly my opinion.

Gillette's Old Type and NEW (both long and short comb) are excellent shavers for me, as is my late 1940s (early 1950s?) STAR DE.  This may have been a competitor to the very popular Gillette Tech but I much prefer the STAR.

This, of course just scratches the surface and doesn't even begin to discuss the wonders of single edge, lather catcher, or injector vintage razors, all of which have their fans and are wonderful.  

Another aspect for users, rather than collectors only, is skin and beard type.  I am very fortunate in that my skin and beard are average, I'm not prone to bumps or ingrown hairs, and I can use all of the razors I have mentioned quite comfortably.  However, folks like Brian (SharpSpine) and Andrew (andrewjs18) have skin and beard conditions that lead them to specific razors.  Brian, for example, has found single edge razors work much better for him.

Finally, have fun with this.  Take a look at eBay and if you see a user grade vintage (useable but perhaps has lots of plate loss would be an example) and it's cheap, get it and see how you like it.  If it shaves great then you can look for one in better condition or get the one you have replated.

(celestino, I'm sorry I had to disagree with you.  I hope all is forgiven. Cry Winking)

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#6

Member
Austin, TX
I agree with most in that it really is dependent on the person but I also feel that every shaving "hobbyist" should at least try both the Slim and Fatboy.

They are the quintessential adjustable and really an accessible part of shaving history. I personally like both the Fatboy and Slim but they do have different properties.

For a fair price, I would jump in and try both. You'll have no issue selling them should you want and you may just find that you love them too.

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Kevin
#7

That Bald Guy with the Big Beard
Bishop, CA
YMMV...as always... Please bear in mind that I only shave my head, so my experience is bound to be different than the average face-shaving experience.

My favorite vintage DE is my Super Speed. It is the notched version, with no date code, so it was made somewhere between early 1948 and late 1950, but that is as close as it gets for a guesstimate. Very mild, but very efficient for my head shaves. Provides a very comfortable shave that can be completed "brainless", meaning that the mild nature and blade exposure allow me to be fairly "lazy" in it's use. That merely means I don't need to pay as much attention to my angles, as there is simply very little risk of nicks/cuts. Price range is anywhere from about $20 to about $40 depending on condition.

Second favorite would be my 1963 Slim adjustable. I like it from 2-6, depending on my stubble. I find it to be very comfortable, very efficient, and the adjustability makes it an excellent daily driver as it will fit a variety of situations. $30-50, dependant on condition.

Third would be my Old Type set. No date code, but it has a thick top cap, so it is somewhere between 1921 and 1928. Without any patent markings or date codes, that is as close as can be had for a guesstimate. These guys had pressure-fit handles, and as such are notorious for cracks. Pay attention to the center tube of the handle where the end fits into place, and the screw post receptacle fits in. This is where you will almost always find cracks. Many of these cracked handles can be stabilized, some are worthless, but the head will still provide an exceptionally close shave, albeit a bit aggressive for my taste.(I have a Brownie Set that is in outstanding condition, including the case and blade box. PM if interested in trying to strike a deal). $20-100 dependant on condition, boxed set, rarity, handle type, etc...

I have a GEM G-bar which is a great little shaver. Circa 1940-50, these little guys are fairly common still, and can be found for a very reasonable price in most places. Good little SE. $5-20 dependant on condition

I have used a Tech and found it very similar to my Super Speed. I have also used a FatBoy, and found it less enjoyable than my Slim, for very similar reasons to what Freddy outlined above. I have no room in my modest den for repetition and redundancy, so I no longer own those razors.

Be aware of pitting and plate loss. Some is tolerable, but too much can be troublesome, unless you calculate the additional expense of replating.

If you're looking at adjustables, make sure they adjust through the full range. Make sure the adjustment plate actually moves up and down, not just turning the dial with no movement. Make sure there is no gap between the top of the adjustment ring and the bottom of the top plate. A gap at the top of the adjustment ring will typically indicate an adjustable that has been "overclocked" for more aggressive blade exposure, and will require service or repairs to be properly functional. Make sure they click and lock into place.

With any TTO, make sure the barn doors open fluidly, set securely, hold the blade tightly, and do not close "off center". The doors need to be aligned for proper operation, so try to pay attention to that in your searches. If possible, put a blade in there, and make sure it doesn't move around and aligns correctly when the doors are closed.

All of these vintage issues are repairable, for the most part, so if you are willing to spend a few extra bucks after the purchase to get something fixed or replated, no worries.

All of the price ranges I listed are highly subjective and variable. You will find razors both cheaper and higher than the ranges I've listed, so look around, look CLOSELY at all pictures, and most importantly...ask questions of the seller. If the seller is unwilling to provide more pictures or answer specific questions, I would suggest looking elsewhere. A trustworthy seller should not have problems answering questions and providing specific pictures...

Good luck and let us know what you find!

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-Chris~Head Shaver~
#8
(This post was last modified: 06-22-2016, 08:43 PM by EFDan.)
I like all three of the Gillette adjustables and I think they all have a different feel to them. The two I really like are the aristocrat and the NEW.

I actually have a love/hate relationship with the GEM MMOC, but it shaves great.

Get them off of BST though so you don't overpay. There is a fatboy here for sale right now at a good price.

http://damnfineshave.com/thread-want-to-...orock-tiki

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#9

Administrator
Philadelphia, PA
I'm jealous of anyone that can use whatever razor they pick up and shave without having to worry about which direction they're going!

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Tu ne cede malis, sed contra audentior ito.
#10

Restitutor Orbis
(06-22-2016, 08:21 PM)BadDad Wrote: YMMV...as always...  Please bear in mind that I only shave my head, so my experience is bound to be different than the average face-shaving experience.

My favorite vintage DE is my Super Speed. It is the notched version, with no date code, so it was made somewhere between early 1948 and late 1950, but that is as close as it gets for a guesstimate. Very mild, but very efficient for my head shaves. Provides a very comfortable shave that can be completed "brainless", meaning that the mild nature and blade exposure allow me to be fairly "lazy" in it's use. That merely means I don't need to pay as much attention to my angles, as there is simply very little risk of nicks/cuts.  Price range is anywhere from about $20 to about $40 depending on condition.

Second favorite would be my 1963 Slim adjustable. I like it from 2-6, depending on my stubble. I find it to be very comfortable, very efficient, and the adjustability makes it an excellent daily driver as it will fit a variety of situations. $30-50, dependant on condition.

Third would be my Old Type set. No date code, but it has a thick top cap, so it is somewhere between 1921 and 1928. Without any patent markings or date codes, that is as close as can be had for a guesstimate. These guys had pressure-fit handles, and as such are notorious for cracks. Pay attention to the center tube of the handle where the end fits into place, and the screw post receptacle fits in. This is where you will almost always find cracks. Many of these cracked handles can be stabilized, some are worthless, but the head will still provide an exceptionally close shave, albeit a bit aggressive for my taste.(I have a Brownie Set that is in outstanding condition, including the case and blade box. PM if interested in trying to strike a deal). $20-100 dependant on condition, boxed set, rarity, handle type, etc...

I have a GEM G-bar which is a great little shaver. Circa 1940-50, these little guys are fairly common still, and can be found for a very reasonable price in most places.  Good little SE. $5-20 dependant on condition

I have used a Tech and found it very similar to my Super Speed. I have also used a FatBoy, and found it less enjoyable than my Slim, for very similar reasons to what Freddy  outlined above.  I have no room in my modest den for repetition and redundancy, so I no longer own those razors.

Be aware of pitting and plate loss. Some is tolerable, but too much can be troublesome, unless you calculate the additional expense of replating.

If you're looking at adjustables, make sure they adjust through the full range. Make sure the adjustment plate actually moves up and down, not just turning the dial with no movement. Make sure there is no gap between the top of the adjustment ring and the bottom of the top plate. A gap at the top of the adjustment ring will typically indicate an adjustable that has been "overclocked" for more aggressive blade exposure, and will require service or repairs to be properly functional. Make sure they click and lock into place.  

With any TTO, make sure the barn doors open fluidly, set securely, hold the blade tightly, and do not close "off center". The doors need to be aligned for proper operation, so try to pay attention to that in your searches. If possible, put a blade in there, and make sure it doesn't move around and aligns correctly when the doors are closed.

All of these vintage issues are repairable, for the most part, so if you are willing to spend a few extra bucks after the purchase to get something fixed or replated, no worries.

All of the price ranges I listed are highly subjective and variable. You will find razors both cheaper and higher than the ranges I've listed, so look around, look CLOSELY at all pictures, and most importantly...ask questions of the seller. If the seller is unwilling to provide more pictures or answer specific questions, I would suggest looking elsewhere. A trustworthy seller should not have problems answering questions and providing specific pictures...

Good luck and let us know what you find!

Thanks for the amazing response Chris, I really appreciate it.

I'll let you know, however I'm still hopeful I find my unicorn! Big Grin

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