(This post was last modified: 04-22-2022, 11:33 AM by DanLaw.)
Was recently gifted a small sample of Grooming Dept Pasion from Lesser; while am often gifted products with which unfamiliar (primarily by vendors seeking opinion of a subject possessing extremely damaged and sensative skin), seldom post unless the results particularly noteworthy in a positive way. Such is the case with Grooming Dept Pasion.
The focus for those with genuine skin issues is always the base as we just cannot under any circumstances sacrifice performance for scent, ease of lathering nor other such convenience and aesthetic luxuries. Given that priority, shall put aside ancillary matters to the end of this post.
This is an incredibly soft soap even by croap standards; it is very much akin to the feel of ETHOS original formulation, which, by my reckoning, is a very positive trait. A simple finger scoop will remove as much or little from the jar as desired. For those eschewing puck lathering for reasons of sanitation and longevity, scooping then bowl or face lathering really are vastly superiour. Some may welcome the texture, others curse it.
Lathering the soap was not as easy as have come to expect from top tier soap artisans, this one was tricky. Sure, it loaded to a DG B13 quite readily but transforming the loaded brush to a yogurt consistency lather was another matter altogether. At least with the local hard water and distilled waters tested, the yield was decidedly low structure as opposed to the hybrid structure others have cited. No matter what tried, sneaking up on the hydration or going for broke and beating the lather back, in all cases the result was runny and low structure.
Low structure lather is generally a terrible omen for those possessing damaged and sensative skin as we rely on cushion over glide and the post shave effects that generally arise from a high structure lather. Make no mistake, while looking at that bowl there was genuine concern this was not going to end well. Worse, even with multi days' growth to aid in the face lathering/exfoliation process, it was not boding well. At no point, even after 10 minutes of working the lather, did a thick viscous layer manifest. Truth told, was convinced these were going to be miserable shaves with each of the 2 shaves and 6 passes attempted. Funny thing, testing betas, one develops an attitude similar to commercial airline pilots or professional racers regarding the weather - doesn't really matter unless there a hurricane, we're on no matter. And so have come to accept the inevitability of conducting a shave no matter how illaugury the lather portends.
The initial pass of the initial shave was undertaken with much trepidation but the terrible shave anticipated and feared never transpired. Sure, the lather was slick as iColoniali, a surprise to be certain, but there was an unexpected degree of cushion. That is NOT to suggest the cushion rivaled Grooming Dept's latest Mallard release and certainly not ETHOS but it was damned closer than it had a right to be and likely the third most cushioned soap used after the aforementioned Mallard - DAMN! How did that just happen?! This sensation held throughout every pass including any touchups after the third pass against the grain. Really, it is quite extraordinary how cushioned such a clearly low structure lather could present.
Post shave has been absolutely amazing with curative effects one experienced would attribute to emu oil, having used it extensively as a 40+ mile/week runner; there are certain sensations arising from emu directly relatable between the feel when used on the back, legs and now face. Mo really is onto something by using emu oil thusly.
Some have complained about the scent being very floral - indeed it is floral and in droves but it is a rich, elegant floral as equally at home on a sophisticated woman as it is on a man confident in his masculinity. While many times not getting Mo's scents. this one definitely is hitting on all 16 cylandres.
Conclusion: realize late to the party between various betas and general lack of dosh to partake of unknowns released upon the shaving community. However, in every way humanly possible, this is by far the best of the nonETHOS soaps and very very close to ETHOS performance albeit from a completely opposite philosophy. Should any of you have the dosh but unwilling to date to give it a go, HIGHLY recommend this a buy. Be brave regarding the low structure lather and proceed as normal; you will be absolutely floored by the results, it is THAT good. My only regret is don't have the ability to buy a jar.
The focus for those with genuine skin issues is always the base as we just cannot under any circumstances sacrifice performance for scent, ease of lathering nor other such convenience and aesthetic luxuries. Given that priority, shall put aside ancillary matters to the end of this post.
This is an incredibly soft soap even by croap standards; it is very much akin to the feel of ETHOS original formulation, which, by my reckoning, is a very positive trait. A simple finger scoop will remove as much or little from the jar as desired. For those eschewing puck lathering for reasons of sanitation and longevity, scooping then bowl or face lathering really are vastly superiour. Some may welcome the texture, others curse it.
Lathering the soap was not as easy as have come to expect from top tier soap artisans, this one was tricky. Sure, it loaded to a DG B13 quite readily but transforming the loaded brush to a yogurt consistency lather was another matter altogether. At least with the local hard water and distilled waters tested, the yield was decidedly low structure as opposed to the hybrid structure others have cited. No matter what tried, sneaking up on the hydration or going for broke and beating the lather back, in all cases the result was runny and low structure.
Low structure lather is generally a terrible omen for those possessing damaged and sensative skin as we rely on cushion over glide and the post shave effects that generally arise from a high structure lather. Make no mistake, while looking at that bowl there was genuine concern this was not going to end well. Worse, even with multi days' growth to aid in the face lathering/exfoliation process, it was not boding well. At no point, even after 10 minutes of working the lather, did a thick viscous layer manifest. Truth told, was convinced these were going to be miserable shaves with each of the 2 shaves and 6 passes attempted. Funny thing, testing betas, one develops an attitude similar to commercial airline pilots or professional racers regarding the weather - doesn't really matter unless there a hurricane, we're on no matter. And so have come to accept the inevitability of conducting a shave no matter how illaugury the lather portends.
The initial pass of the initial shave was undertaken with much trepidation but the terrible shave anticipated and feared never transpired. Sure, the lather was slick as iColoniali, a surprise to be certain, but there was an unexpected degree of cushion. That is NOT to suggest the cushion rivaled Grooming Dept's latest Mallard release and certainly not ETHOS but it was damned closer than it had a right to be and likely the third most cushioned soap used after the aforementioned Mallard - DAMN! How did that just happen?! This sensation held throughout every pass including any touchups after the third pass against the grain. Really, it is quite extraordinary how cushioned such a clearly low structure lather could present.
Post shave has been absolutely amazing with curative effects one experienced would attribute to emu oil, having used it extensively as a 40+ mile/week runner; there are certain sensations arising from emu directly relatable between the feel when used on the back, legs and now face. Mo really is onto something by using emu oil thusly.
Some have complained about the scent being very floral - indeed it is floral and in droves but it is a rich, elegant floral as equally at home on a sophisticated woman as it is on a man confident in his masculinity. While many times not getting Mo's scents. this one definitely is hitting on all 16 cylandres.
Conclusion: realize late to the party between various betas and general lack of dosh to partake of unknowns released upon the shaving community. However, in every way humanly possible, this is by far the best of the nonETHOS soaps and very very close to ETHOS performance albeit from a completely opposite philosophy. Should any of you have the dosh but unwilling to date to give it a go, HIGHLY recommend this a buy. Be brave regarding the low structure lather and proceed as normal; you will be absolutely floored by the results, it is THAT good. My only regret is don't have the ability to buy a jar.