#1

Posting Freak
Peachtree City, GA
(This post was last modified: 04-22-2022, 11:33 AM by DanLaw.)
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Was recently gifted a small sample of Grooming Dept Pasion from Lesser; while am often gifted products with which unfamiliar (primarily by vendors seeking opinion of a subject possessing extremely damaged and sensative skin), seldom post unless the results particularly noteworthy in a positive way.  Such is the case with Grooming Dept Pasion.

The focus for those with genuine skin issues is always the base as we just cannot under any circumstances sacrifice performance for scent, ease of lathering nor other such convenience and aesthetic luxuries.  Given that priority, shall put aside ancillary matters to the end of this post.

This is an incredibly soft soap even by croap standards; it is very much akin to the feel of ETHOS original formulation, which, by my reckoning, is a very positive trait.  A simple finger scoop will remove as much or little from the jar as desired.  For those eschewing puck lathering for reasons of sanitation and longevity, scooping then bowl or face lathering really are vastly superiour.  Some may welcome the texture, others curse it.

Lathering the soap was not as easy as have come to expect from top tier soap artisans, this one was tricky.  Sure, it loaded to a DG B13 quite readily but transforming the loaded brush to a yogurt consistency lather was another matter altogether.  At least with the local hard water and distilled waters tested, the yield was decidedly low structure as opposed to the hybrid structure others have cited.  No matter what tried, sneaking up on the hydration or going for broke and beating the lather back, in all cases the result was runny and low structure.

Low structure lather is generally a terrible omen for those possessing damaged and sensative skin as we rely on cushion over glide and the post shave effects that generally arise from a high structure lather.  Make no mistake, while looking at that bowl there was genuine concern this was not going to end well.  Worse, even with multi days' growth to aid in the face lathering/exfoliation process, it was not boding well.  At no point, even after 10 minutes of working the lather, did a thick viscous layer manifest.  Truth told, was convinced these were going to be miserable shaves with each of the 2 shaves and 6 passes attempted.  Funny thing, testing betas, one develops an attitude similar to commercial airline pilots or professional racers regarding the weather - doesn't really matter unless there a hurricane, we're on no matter.  And so have come to accept the inevitability of conducting a shave no matter how illaugury the lather portends.  

The initial pass of the initial shave was undertaken with much trepidation but the terrible shave anticipated and feared never transpired.  Sure, the lather was slick as iColoniali, a surprise to be certain, but there was an unexpected degree of cushion.  That is NOT to suggest the cushion rivaled Grooming Dept's latest Mallard release and certainly not ETHOS but it was damned closer than it had a right to be and likely the third most cushioned soap used after the aforementioned Mallard - DAMN!  How did that just happen?!  This sensation held throughout every pass including any touchups after the third pass against the grain.  Really, it is quite extraordinary how cushioned such a clearly low structure lather could present.

Post shave has been absolutely amazing with curative effects one experienced would attribute to emu oil, having used it extensively as a 40+ mile/week runner; there are certain sensations arising from emu directly relatable between the feel when used on the back, legs and now face.  Mo really is onto something by using emu oil thusly.

Some have complained about the scent being very floral - indeed it is floral and in droves but it is a rich, elegant floral as equally at home on a sophisticated woman as it is on a man confident in his masculinity.  While many times not getting Mo's scents. this one definitely is hitting on all 16 cylandres.

Conclusion: realize late to the party between various betas and general lack of dosh to partake of unknowns released upon the shaving community.  However, in every way humanly possible, this is by far the best of the nonETHOS soaps and very very close to ETHOS performance albeit from a completely opposite philosophy.  Should any of you have the dosh but unwilling to date to give it a go, HIGHLY recommend this a buy.  Be brave regarding the low structure lather and proceed as normal; you will be absolutely floored by the results, it is THAT good.  My only regret is don't have the ability to buy a jar.

TommyCarioca, keto, Southsider and 1 others like this post
#2
In your opinion, do you consider that it outperforms the latest mallard soap in terms of skin care?
#3

Posting Freak
Peachtree City, GA
Not to suggest the Mallard anything less than stellar but yes. Mallard close behind though.

Fanshaving likes this post
#4

Member
Chicago Suburbs
As one who also has sensitive skin, Kairos SE is the best soap I have ever used. There are other soaps that are nearly as good: Ariana and Evans Kaisen 2e with emu oil, Barrister and Mann Omnibus, Ethos Grooming Essentials Formula F, and Grooming Dept Mallard, but Kairos SE tops them all.

I remember when these artisans introduced their earlier versions. They were so good I though they would never improve their formulas, but they proved me wrong. Their latest efforts are phenomenal. You cannot go wrong with any of them, but Kairos SE is truly special.

Marhos24, Fanshaving, TommyCarioca and 1 others like this post
#5

Member
Chicago Suburbs
For those of you who are hoping to purchase a tub or two of Kairos SE (with lamb tallow and emu oil), I just noted that Mohammad posted a release date of Friday, April 8 on this web site.

The release includes two new Kairos SE scents: Omnia and Ousia. I plan to purchase both of the scents.
Because the reviews of Kairos SE have been so favorable, I expect they will sell out quickly. Thus, I will place my order as soon as possible.

There will also be four standard Kairos formula soaps released. These do not contain either lamb tallow or emu oil, but are still outstanding soaps in their own right. There are three scented versions and one unscented for those who prefer to remain fragrance free.

keto and DanLaw like this post
#6

Posting Freak
Peachtree City, GA
(This post was last modified: 04-22-2022, 11:37 AM by DanLaw.)
Owe an apology to Grooming Dept and Mo

Have reviewed Kairos SE, Pasion to be specific, finding it to be a top tier soap arising to a returned status of second best base trailing only ETHOS.

Since that time have been reading the reviews of others as well as commentary from Mo. As a result have modified the lathering process by both allowing the soap to dry and breathe overnight prior to lathering, then literally drowning the soap working the lather heavily thereafter.

The results have been a revelation. While the slickness and post shave were at the top tier of the industry, using the aerating followed by aggressive hydrating procedure yielded incredibly improved results and, much to my surprise, increased cushion.

Clearly Kairos SE is far better than I had reviewed once my head had wrapped around its unique qualities and requirements.

To be fair, must state that Kairos SE and the base ETHOS soaps really are neck and neck in performance. However, that is NOT to state one can switch between the two seamlessly: they are world's apart in their physical qualities.

ETHOS is brainless, being nearly impossible to not achieve a SOTD porn lather that is thick and traditionally appealing in appearance and feel. Those predisposed to traditional lather would tend to favour it. Further, one would well and truly have to be ham fisted dolt to the point of fearing the potential of donuts to sever limbs to produce a low quality lather using it. The postshave is amazing under all conditions.

Grooming Dept Kairos SE is a tech marvel by comparison. It will deliver equally amazing results on par with ETHOS but it must be properly lathered. Further, the lather presents thinner and wetter which can test the confidence of those timourous, discouraging the experimentation necessary to fully develop its greatness.

Being a motorsports person, an alternative description would be the difference between ETHOS and Grooming Dept is similar to the difference between a Grand Touring race car and a modern aero dependent formula race car. The former can be driven hard right from the start by anybody having any driving experience on the street but the latter requires a special person willing to push beyond the initial limits of mechanical traction where the vehicle becomes twitchy until the benefits of aero downforce come into play restabilizing the vehicle.

Those unsure about Grooming Dept Kairos SE,' maka de push' as Italian speaking racers would state and try the combination overnight airing followed by aggressive hydration as is being suggested. You will be glad of it.

rocket likes this post
#7
(04-22-2022, 11:32 AM)DanLaw Wrote: Since that time have been reading the reviews of others as well as commentary from Mo. As a result have modified the lathering process by both allowing the soap to dry and breathe overnight prior to lathering, then literally drowning the soap working the lather heavily thereafter.

The results have been a revelation. While the slickness and post shave were at the top tier of the industry, using the aerating followed by aggressive hydrating procedure yielded incredibly improved results and, much to my surprise, increased cushion.

Hey Dan, I think I may give this technique a try with my Earl Grey Gellato GD and see how it goes.
#8

Posting Freak
Peachtree City, GA
(04-23-2022, 09:36 PM)zaclikestoshave Wrote:
(04-22-2022, 11:32 AM)DanLaw Wrote: Since that time have been reading the reviews of others as well as commentary from Mo. As a result have modified the lathering process by both allowing the soap to dry and breathe overnight prior to lathering, then literally drowning the soap working the lather heavily thereafter.

The results have been a revelation. While the slickness and post shave were at the top tier of the industry, using the aerating followed by aggressive hydrating procedure yielded incredibly improved results and, much to my surprise, increased cushion.

Hey Dan, I think I may give this technique a try with my Earl Grey Gellato GD and see how it goes.

Airing has helped every soap or creme where tried to date. However, not confident aggressively hydrating is a good strategy for Mallard. It lathered wonderfully employing a traditional technique.

Let us know how it goes but please do try the airing technique separately at least once.

rocket, zaclikestoshave and keto like this post
#9
(04-23-2022, 10:59 PM)DanLaw Wrote: [quote pid="451649" dateline="1650746165"]
(04-22-2022, 11:32 AM)DanLaw Wrote: Since that time have been reading the reviews of others as well as commentary from Mo. As a result have modified the lathering process by both allowing the soap to dry and breathe overnight prior to lathering, then literally drowning the soap working the lather heavily thereafter.

The results have been a revelation. While the slickness and post shave were at the top tier of the industry, using the aerating followed by aggressive hydrating procedure yielded incredibly improved results and, much to my surprise, increased cushion.

[/quote]

Just stopping by to say this technique improved my lather results with Kairos SE. Thanks for sharing.

dtownvino likes this post


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