TNNSER 3D printed SE razor

my TNNSER from shapeways shipped today via UPS - much quicker than they listed on their site..

Told you so :-)

br
godek

my TNNSER from shapeways shipped today via UPS - much quicker than they listed on their site..

I haven't picked up the bolt or nut yet - does home depot typically carry these?

Looking forward to pics and hearing how yours turned out. My source is taking longer than expected and I fear the quality of print was VERY low......

I have one on the way from Shapeways. I'll post pics when I get it. I'm skeptical because I usually dislike very light razors, but I'm holding out hope that it will be a good shaver.

Looking forward to pics and hearing how yours turned out. My source is taking longer than expected and I fear the quality of print was VERY low......

This design does not need high accuracy.

br
godek

Looking forward to pics and hearing how yours turned out. My source is taking longer than expected and I fear the quality of print was VERY low......

This design does not need high accuracy.

br
godek

I've read that but he is taking a long time sanding and trying to get fitment to work so I'm apprehensive...........

Looking forward to pics and hearing how yours turned out. My source is taking longer than expected and I fear the quality of print was VERY low......

This design does not need high accuracy.

br
godek

I've read that but he is taking a long time sanding and trying to get fitment to work so I'm apprehensive...........

that's also what I've read on one of the other forums that has more discussions on this razor than DFS does currently...if people use lower resolution printers, it requires sanding and finishing to get the razor pieces to fit together correctly.

I do a lot of 3D printing of razor parts. FDM (the most common type of printers which use filament) is okay for checking to see what things look like in person, but in my experience to actually get something shave-ready you need to step up to SLA/DLP (resin printers). Otherwise you encounter the tedious sanding to get the thing decent looking. And for razors where 0.1mm can matter, hand sanding just isn’t a very accurate way to get a finished product.

If you want to print a razor for fun and to shave with a few times, FDM is perfect. But if you actually want to own this razor for a while, use it many times, and get the most out of it I recommend a print upgrade.

This design does not need high accuracy.

br
godek

I've read that but he is taking a long time sanding and trying to get fitment to work so I'm apprehensive...........

that's also what I've read on one of the other forums that has more discussions on this razor than DFS does currently...if people use lower resolution printers, it requires sanding and finishing to get the razor pieces to fit together correctly.

I do a lot of 3D printing of razor parts. FDM (the most common type of printers which use filament) is okay for checking to see what things look like in person, but in my experience to actually get something shave-ready you need to step up to SLA/DLP (resin printers). Otherwise you encounter the tedious sanding to get the thing decent looking. And for razors where 0.1mm can matter, hand sanding just isn’t a very accurate way to get a finished product.

If you want to print a razor for fun and to shave with a few times, FDM is perfect. But if you actually want to own this razor for a while, use it many times, and get the most out of it I recommend a print upgrade.

Yeah, his work got a new one in and they are experimenting and I think it must be low resolution. I am getting it for next to nothing and will take it so I have one, but am working another angle for a better quality one with someone more experienced too. Will post results when I get them.

I've read that but he is taking a long time sanding and trying to get fitment to work so I'm apprehensive...........

that's also what I've read on one of the other forums that has more discussions on this razor than DFS does currently...if people use lower resolution printers, it requires sanding and finishing to get the razor pieces to fit together correctly.

I do a lot of 3D printing of razor parts. FDM (the most common type of printers which use filament) is okay for checking to see what things look like in person, but in my experience to actually get something shave-ready you need to step up to SLA/DLP (resin printers). Otherwise you encounter the tedious sanding to get the thing decent looking. And for razors where 0.1mm can matter, hand sanding just isn’t a very accurate way to get a finished product.

If you want to print a razor for fun and to shave with a few times, FDM is perfect. But if you actually want to own this razor for a while, use it many times, and get the most out of it I recommend a print upgrade.

Yeah, his work got a new one in and they are experimenting and I think it must be low resolution. I am getting it for next to nothing and will take it so I have one, but am working another angle for a better quality one with someone more experienced too. Will post results when I get them.

probably hard to beat the price for one from shapeways for ~$40-50 shipped to your door..

I got my shapeways tnnser in the mail today before I left for work.

I used the fine detail plastic for the base plate and top cap and the versatile plastic for the handle.  everything looks very well printed, even the cheaper versatile plastic handle.  I threw everything in my book bag to bring it into work with me to play with it there...

I did not get a chance to get the bolt & nut to attach the base plate to the handle.  that aside, once getting to work, I started messing with the top cap and base plate.  the tolerances are so damn tight that I had to use quite a bit of force to get the top cap to slide into the grooves in the base plate - I did not see anything in the way of excess plastic from the printing that would of prevented the two pieces from sliding together somewhat easily...

I ended up chipping a corner off of the base plate and it looks like on the one side of the top cap, there are some signs of stress being applied in the plastic.  I'm still not sure if the top cap is fully seated into the base plate..and even if it is, I have no idea how I'm going to remove the top cap from the base plate to insert/remove a blade. I'm a bit nervous to even attempt doing so knowing how tight it was just to slide the top cap into plate without any blade installed as it is...not sure if I want to take the risk of slicing my hand open on the blade..

some photos...it's hard to capture decent photos with the fine detail plastic..

if you look at the left side of this photo here, you'll see the small chip I referenced earlier:



other photos. I don't think the top cap is fully seated in the base plate..