#21

Member
Seattle
(This post was last modified: 12-28-2023, 10:39 AM by Captainjonny.)
Regardless of what razor I use (303 Steel, 304 Steel, 316 Steel, Aluminum, Titanium or Zamak), I always remove the blade, clean and dry the razor completely. With my process, all of my razors look brand new, therefore the material of the razors...from a durability standpoint, is a non-issue. How a razor shaves, and the enjoyment it provides is all that matters.
I observed my dad in the 50's and 60's...shave, shake the moisture off the razor and place it on the sink or the medicine cabinet until the next day. I suspect that many shavers today will follow that same procedure...which contributes to quicker levels of razor corrosion in certain razor materials.
How a razor is treated, is a huge contributor to people having corrosion issues with their razors (assuming they had no defects when purchased).

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#22
(12-25-2023, 12:39 AM)RayClem Wrote: If you plan to place your razor in a pirate's chest at the water's edge and want it to remain pristine for a few decades, then 316L is your steel of choice. If you want your razor to resist corrosion when exposed to a ruptured chlorine tank car, the 316L will last longer.

(12-25-2023, 05:21 AM)Blackland Razors Wrote: There is no added functional benefit of 316L in a razor unless you plan to spend much time shaving while scuba diving.

Isn’t this why we’re all here though? DFS is Deepwater Fishing Shave right??

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#23

Posting Freak
Traditional wet shaving. Where anything worth doing is worth overdoing  Big Grin Dare I say it? It’s just a razor.

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#24

Member
Chicago Suburbs
I know some people do remove the blade from the razor between shaves. Some even reorient the blade in the razor when reinstalling it  following the numbers printed on the blade.  However, I have seen a number of blades where the manufacturer warns not to wipe the blade and to leave the blade in the razor to prevent damage to the coating. Of course, it is your razor, your blade, and your face, so you can do whatever you wish. 

While performing razor blade evaluations, I have used a blade for one shave and then left the blade in the razor for a few strokes during the subsequent shave for comparison purposes.

Normally, I shave using four different razors, each with their own blade. I use a different razor/blade combination for each of my four shave passes. The blade used for the WTG passes gets the most wear and might be replaced after a half dozen shaves. The blade used for my 4th clean-up pass might last 16-20 shaves since it is only picking up stray stubble. In that situation, the blades remain in the razors until they are no longer sharp enough or smooth enough to do their job. There is no way I am removing four blades from the razors after my shave. 

When using a straight razor, especially one made of carbon steel, I carefully dry the blade, apply a mixture of 91% rubbing alcohol and mineral oil and store the razor away until I use it again. The fine edge of a carbon steel blade does corrode readily, so drying and oiling it helps prolong the life.

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#25

Member
Indianapolis, IN
I have heard the same thing from some manufacturers, same issue with titanium that it wears out the tools much more quickly and requires more attention and maintenance.
#26
I think 316 steel is the best that has been invented for razors.
#27

Merchant
Minneapolis
We are a little late to this discussion but I wrote a blog/case study on the subject here a while ago:

Machined Stainless Steel Safety Razor Grades and Other Metals


Quote:I have noticed that most of the boutique razors made in the USA and Europe use 303 or 304 stainless steel rather than 316L.  There are certainly exceptions, but Blackland, Timeless, Above the Tie, Karve, Tatara, and others use the softer and less durable 303 or 304 SS rather than marine grade 316L.  Yaqi, Feather, Paradigm, RazoRock, Wolfman, and others are the exceptions who use 316L.  My question is why, or rather why not?  There must be a reason besides cost.  After all if RazoRock can produce good quality razors out of 316L for $70 and Yaqi for even less, then why not Blackland Razors, Timeless, tatararazors, and Karve?  There must be a reason, and I'd like to know why.


An "MR" rating or "Machinability Rating" is a way to compare how easier a material is to machine vs another material. Stainless steel grade 303 (MR rating of .65) and 304(MR rating of .41) are much easier to machine compared to 316(MR rating of .35)...303 is the cheapest to machine by far! These grades of stainless steel are also far less corrosion resistant than 316L. We considered using 303 when we first started and while it was significantly more profitable, we didn't like the material at all for the following reasons:
  • Sulfur is added to the material which makes it a far less expensive grade of stainless to machine than other stainless grades. The sulfur creates voids in the material which allows you to machine the stainless steel quicker, cooler, and without coolant(smaller chips). This reduces its corrosion resistance. 
  • Ease of machining makes it much cheaper to machine, however it comes at a significant expense to its corrosion resistance. Shaving companies who use this material recommend you remove the blade after use, so as to not get rust or what they call tea stains on your shaver. Water will collect in the small tight unaccessable areas like the threads and rust over time.
  • 303 is not recommended for earrings, watches, rings, nor is it considered food grade stainless(by the FDA)...in some countries, it is banned for these applications.
  • In a humid environment like a bathroom with tap water which has salt, (especially if you have have a water softener) a marine grade stainless steel is a better choice. We assume our customers will neglect their razor....leave the blade in!
  • 316L will finish to a higher, brighter polish than other stainless due to the addition of molybdenum.

I am not sure I answered draebeard question regarding why 303 but this is why we chose 316L.

With regards to 304, we do use 304 in our stainless Damascus Cx razors, I wrote a blog about damascus(writing helps me focus):

Damascus Steel Safety Razor and its origins

The history of Damascus steel as it relates to sword making is an interesting one and seems relavent to this discussion as some consider it the earliest form of material science. Similar to the OP's question.

In the photo below you can see both metals after we etch the forged metal in warm acid (a sketchy experience!). The valleys on the surface are 304, where the acid corroded the metal, the peaks in the surface are 316L. While acid is not a part of the shaving experience, it does show the relative corrosion resistance of the 2 metals in relation to each other, 316L is very durable:

[Image: wXap6Pg.png]

With regards to 904L stainless:


Quote:Surely 904L steel is overkill then.

Stephanos provided some good insight into this steel alloy some time ago.



I feel compelled to answer this as we are the only manufacturer to have ever used this material in a safety razor. Rolex switched to this grade of stainless steel in the '80's because of corrosion around their threads....it doesn't get better in terms of a stainless material! Total overkill...Rolex gets the same wrap on its blogs Smile

I appreciate the opportunity to respond...stay well!

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A small company trying to make a great razor...
#28
(05-22-2024, 06:58 PM)CarbonShavingCo. Wrote: We are a little late to this discussion but I wrote a blog/case study on the subject here a while ago:

Machined Stainless Steel Safety Razor Grades and Other Metals


Quote:I have noticed that most of the boutique razors made in the USA and Europe use 303 or 304 stainless steel rather than 316L.  There are certainly exceptions, but Blackland, Timeless, Above the Tie, Karve, Tatara, and others use the softer and less durable 303 or 304 SS rather than marine grade 316L.  Yaqi, Feather, Paradigm, RazoRock, Wolfman, and others are the exceptions who use 316L.  My question is why, or rather why not?  There must be a reason besides cost.  After all if RazoRock can produce good quality razors out of 316L for $70 and Yaqi for even less, then why not Blackland Razors, Timeless, tatararazors, and Karve?  There must be a reason, and I'd like to know why.


An "MR" rating or "Machinability Rating" is a way to compare how easier a material is to machine vs another material. Stainless steel grade 303 (MR rating of .65) and 304(MR rating of .41) are much easier to machine compared to 316(MR rating of .35)...303 is the cheapest to machine by far! These grades of stainless steel are also far less corrosion resistant than 316L. We considered using 303 when we first started and while it was significantly more profitable, we didn't like the material at all for the following reasons:
  • Sulfur is added to the material which makes it a far less expensive grade of stainless to machine than other stainless grades. The sulfur creates voids in the material which allows you to machine the stainless steel quicker, cooler, and without coolant(smaller chips). This reduces its corrosion resistance. 
  • Ease of machining makes it much cheaper to machine, however it comes at a significant expense to its corrosion resistance. Shaving companies who use this material recommend you remove the blade after use, so as to not get rust or what they call tea stains on your shaver. Water will collect in the small tight unaccessable areas like the threads and rust over time.
  • 303 is not recommended for earrings, watches, rings, nor is it considered food grade stainless(by the FDA)...in some countries, it is banned for these applications.
  • In a humid environment like a bathroom with tap water which has salt, (especially if you have have a water softener) a marine grade stainless steel is a better choice. We assume our customers will neglect their razor....leave the blade in!
  • 316L will finish to a higher, brighter polish than other stainless due to the addition of molybdenum.

I am not sure I answered draebeard question regarding why 303 but this is why we chose 316L.

With regards to 304, we do use 304 in our stainless Damascus Cx razors, I wrote a blog about damascus(writing helps me focus):

Damascus Steel Safety Razor and its origins

The history of Damascus steel as it relates to sword making is an interesting one and seems relavent to this discussion as some consider it the earliest form of material science. Similar to the OP's question.

In the photo below you can see both metals after we etch the forged metal in warm acid (a sketchy experience!). The valleys on the surface are 304, where the acid corroded the metal, the peaks in the surface are 316L. While acid is not a part of the shaving experience, it does show the relative corrosion resistance of the 2 metals in relation to each other, 316L is very durable:

[Image: wXap6Pg.png]

With regards to 904L stainless:


Quote:Surely 904L steel is overkill then.

Stephanos provided some good insight into this steel alloy some time ago.



I feel compelled to answer this as we are the only manufacturer to have ever used this material in a safety razor. Rolex switched to this grade of stainless steel in the '80's because of corrosion around their threads....it doesn't get better in terms of a stainless material! Total overkill...Rolex gets the same wrap on its blogs Smile

I appreciate the opportunity to respond...stay well!

This was a super cool answer. Thank you! I have to ask - assuming it doesn't give away your trade secrets - how does one acquire 904L steel if you are not Rolex? I thought Rolex had its out foundry and manufactured it exclusively for themselves?

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#29

Merchant
Minneapolis
(This post was last modified: 05-22-2024, 09:39 PM by CarbonShavingCo..)
Quote:This was a super cool answer. Thank you! I have to ask - assuming it doesn't give away your trade secrets - how does one acquire 904L steel if you are not Rolex? I thought Rolex had its out foundry and manufactured it exclusively for themselves?


No trade secrets in grades of stainless steel...904L is not owned by Rolex and it is not exclusive to them....Rolex trademarks their grade 904L steel as "Oyster Steel" after they finish it:

Rolex 904L Steel 

Its a grade of stainless steel used extensively in the chemical industry...in order to qualify as grade 904L the steel must fall under these specs:

Nickel 23.0 min.-28.0 max.
Chromium 19.0 min.-23.0 max.
Molybdenum 4.0 min.-5.0 max.
Copper 1.0-2.0 max.
Manganese 2.00
Silicon 1.00
Phosphorus 0.045
Sulfur 0.035
Iron Balance

The controversy with this material is that it is disputed who "invented" it, Omega claims to have been the first in the watch industry. I write more about it here:

Introduction to the worlds first 904L stainless steel safety razor

You can buy 904L from a number of domestic and international suppliers...it is expensive material.

Sean

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A small company trying to make a great razor...
#30
Are those 904L models coming back in-stock any time soon Sean? Thx!

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