#81

Member
Toronto, Ont. Canada
(08-14-2016, 02:02 AM)Elver Gun Wrote:
(08-14-2016, 01:50 AM)Pete123 Wrote: I'm really not seeing any major areas of disagreement between grim, Mickey, BadDad an myself.

I don't know, man.   The only way you will be able to convince us that peace reigns in the land is if you guys hold hands and start singing Kumbaya. Tongue


Sorry. He won't sing. His cheeks are stuffed with the oatmeal I used as a bribe.

[Image: IMGP6941%202.jpg]

Mickey

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#82
(This post was last modified: 08-15-2016, 04:55 AM by CrowneAndCrane.)
This was a great idea for a thread and provided a lot of interesting information. I have two to offer.

1. Myth: A straight razor beginner should learn to shave with a 5/8 razor first. The only thing that lends any credence to this idea is that a 5/8 razor is generally less expensive than larger razors -- that part is true. The concept that they are easier to shave with than wider razors is just a matter of opinion. I personally find a 7/8 razor much easier to shave with than the slimmer blades.

2. Myth: Straight razors are much more difficult to sharpen than knives. That's just straight up untrue -- generally speaking. Assuming a new knife and a new razor without hone wear, most knives are harder to sharpen well since, for most knife grinds, one must maintain the bevel angle without the aid of the entire blade being in contact with the stone. With a straight razor the spine of the blade is such that the entire blade lays flat on the stone, removing the need to guess at the proper angle as one must do with most knife blades. Therefore, it is actually more difficult to sharpen a knife well than it is a razor.

3. (Bonus potential myth): Cushion. Is it real or mythical?

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#83
(This post was last modified: 08-14-2016, 09:47 PM by brucered.)
@uzi

I never understood cushion either. I'm guilty of saying a soap has Cushion & Slickness, but don't really understand Cushion.

Mickey Oberman likes this post
#84
I always thought cushion referred to the thickness of the lather which makes no difference as long as it is slick. That's just me though.

Mickey Oberman likes this post
#85
I too have never understood the concept of cushion and shaving lather. I have read posts on it, heard it referred to in shaving videos either trying to explain it or stating that such and such provided great cushion during the shave. Totally lost on me.

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Go Blue!
#86

That Bald Guy with the Big Beard
Bishop, CA
(08-14-2016, 08:28 PM)Uzi Wrote: This was a great idea for a thread and provided a lot of interesting information.  I have two to offer.

1.  Myth: A straight razor beginner should learn to shave with a 5/8 razor first.   The only thing that leads any credence to this idea is that a 5/8 razor is generally less expensive than larger razors -- that part is true.  The concept that they are easier to shave with than wider razors is just a matter of opinion.  I personally find a 7/8 razor much easier to shave with than the slimmer blades.

2. Myth: Straight razors are much more difficult to sharpen than knives.  That's just straight up untrue -- generally speaking.  Assuming a new knife and a new razor without hone wear, most knives are harder to sharpen well since, for most knife grinds, one must maintain the bevel angle without the aid of the entire blade being in contact with the stone.  With a straight razor the spine of the blade is such that the entire blade lays flat on the stone, removing the need to guess at the proper angle as one must do with most knife blades.  Therefore, it is actually more difficult to sharpen a knife well than it is a razor.

3.  (Bonus potential myth):  Cushion.  Is it real or mythical?

When I first started using straights, I found a 5/8 to be easier to manipulate and control than a 6/8, and I had both, so I was able to do quite a bit of comparing. Now that I have a fair amount of control and technique, I use everything from 4/8 to 6/8, without much difference between them.

However, I thoroughly agree with your Second Myth. When I first showed an interest in learning to shave and hone straights at the same time, I was told it would be bloody and difficult, because "knife guys just don't know how to hone". I find razor honing to be easier, as well. Just as you pointed out, there isn't as much guess work involved in finding and setting a bevel. It's easier to just lay the whole blade down on a stone that is wider than the edge, than it is to hone a long blade with an obtuse bevel that you have to hold even and elevated off the stone.

Obviously, razors are far more refined and softer, so you have to pay attention, but the techniques employed are actually less demanding, in my opinion...

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-Chris~Head Shaver~
#87
(This post was last modified: 08-14-2016, 11:52 PM by grim. Edit Reason: corrected - with to without )
Cushion is the ability of the soap to provide a layer of material between the skin and the metal of the blade to allow the blade to effectively cut the hair without breaking the skin and drawing blood, or getting razor burn. Soaps with great cushion result in a closer shave time after time without drawing blood.

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#88
(08-14-2016, 04:12 AM)BadDad Wrote: Honestly, I was not considering Feathers as shavettes. I have never used one, personally, but everyone with whom I have spoken has said they are way different than traditional DE shavettes. One day I will be able to get a Feather AC, but as of yet, I've never used one.

The main advantage over standard DE shavettes, I would think, is the thickness of the blade. It's much stiffer than a standard DE blade, and I think that would make a HUGE difference in the margin of error...

I also learned to palm strop my DE shavette, and it improved the quality of the shave by a mile. After about 125 straight shaves, I went back to the DE shavette and had a MUCH better shave...

Yep, you hit it on the head with blade thickness. I use the Pro Super blades because they're the thickest of the entire line. I find them more forgiving than the Pros, even though they're supposed to be for heavy beards.

That said, to me the Feather AC feels more like a DE shavette with a fresh blade, and more & more like a straight as the blade mellows. Stropping really helps.

Ah, cushion! If it's not a myth, then it's an overrated reality. Assuming a decent lather, you don't need much of it between blade and skin to get a great shave. Sharp blade + proper angle + light touch = Happy

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Viseguy
#89

Member
Toronto, Ont. Canada
(This post was last modified: 08-14-2016, 11:58 PM by Mickey Oberman.)
(08-14-2016, 11:07 PM)grim Wrote: Cushion is the ability of the soap to provide a layer of material between the skin and the metal of the blade to allow the blade to effectively cut the hair with breaking the skin and drawing blood, or getting razor burn. Soaps with great cushion result in a closer shave time after time without drawing blood.

Grim,

I am not disagreeing.
I just don't understand the reasoning or the logic.
"... soap to provide a layer of material between the skin and the metal of the blade...."?
" Soaps with great cushion result in a closer shave ...."?

"... a layer of material between the skin and the metal of the blade.... result in a closer shave ...."???!!


I assume "with" is a typo.

Mickey

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#90
Have to agree with Mickey's implication that the more "material" you put between the edge of your blade and the surface of your skin, the less close your shave is likely to be.

My theory -- and I'm fully aware that I may be propagating another myth here, but I don't think so -- is that the key to wet shaving is hydration. Hydration of the skin and, of course, hydration of the whiskers. Yes, lather lubricates, but what is also does is to ensure that millions of molecules of water are efficiently distributed across the area (skin and beard) to be shaved. And water, I submit, is what mainly makes the difference between hair removal and shaving with a blade.

Have you ever tried dry shaving -- no lather, no water, no nothing? I have. With a straight razor. Not my whole face (I'm not certifiably insane  Dodgy ), just a very small area. And you know what? A blade on dry skin cuts whiskers just fine. True, with lots of irritation, but hair removal takes place. Now if you add water to the equation (still no lather), things get better. Whiskers get shaved off, with less irritation. I *think* you could probably shave your entire face with water alone. It wouldn't be fun, but it would be doable, I think.

So, lather is the X factor that makes the difference between hair removal and shaving without irritation. Following the lead of William of Ockham, I submit that the least lather necessary to avoid irritation is all the "cushion" that's needed. How much is "the least"?

As William would say: YMMV

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Viseguy


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