Savon Mystere Artisan Soapery

Just received one jar of the Greed (Dimitris included
the Greed asl as a gift ) and one jar of
Titania oud .Both smell awesome!
Can't wait to put them to the test.

Savon Mystere "Greed" shaving soap

Country of origin : Greece ( Hellas )

Physical properties :

Hay colored ,medium-hard , 120 gr / 4.2 oz ,
extra wide polymer jar ,sticker labels .

Ingredients :  ASA 2.1 formula  /
Stearic acid ,Cocoa butter,Beef tallow,Aqua,Aloe Vera juice,
Potassium Hydroxide,Glycerin,Coconut oil,Sodium Hydroxide,Avocado oil,
Castor oil,Grapeseed oil,Olive oil,Donkey milk,Hemp oil,Shea butter,
Mango seed butter,lanolin,fragance,Sodium Lactate,Raw Honey,
Xanthan gum,Kaolin clay,Tussah silk


Lather building :
 Face lathering;Takes a bit of time to build up lather.
Very "thirsty" soap .

Lather consistency : 
Thick,creamy and stout lather.
Soft ice-cream lather consistency.

Stubble hydration/softening :
Excellent pre shave skin and stubble hydration.

Protection :
As a tallow based shaving soap protection is at top notch level .
Lather was creamy & thick delivering tons of cushion.

Slickness :
Top levels of slickness provided.
Blade's edge glided almost friction-free .

Residual slickness :
Pretty good /above the average ,but I've seen better .

Post-shave : 
Leaves skin soft and supple.
Maybe a tad to the dry side,but the soap is freshly made not that long ago.
A bit of "maturing" /"curing" is needed for the soap to
reach it's full "mellow & gentle" state.
I like my shaving soaps to be very well matured/cured.
Tallow -based soaps reach their full maturity about four to six months after the date of production.

Scent profile :
Scent is inspired by the unisex fragance Pura Herba by Xerjoff

Top Notes : Orange And Lemon From Sicily, Calabrian Bergamot
Heart Notes : Fruity Basket From The Mediterranean
Base Notes : Amber And Vanilla Beans From Madagascar, White Musk

Scent is fruity and sweet ,but not on the "gourmet" side .
Very-very intoxicating scent ,refreshing while being mysterious and complex .
Ideal for the hot summer days.

Scent power :
Quite overwhelming !
For a tallow based shaving soap ,scent was  pretty "straightforward"
and clean ,without the usual "tallow /animal" olfactory contamination.

Perfume irritations/allergic reactions : None .

Order : dfdiamantis@gmail.com

Overall :
Savon Mystere  shaving soaps are difficult to get .
Usually they get out of stock hours after each batch is available.
Definately they are top-quality artisan soaps.
One can not really ask for more from a shaving soap.

Would I suggest it ?
Well,yes ..but..Uhmm,no ...
There isn't enough available for everybody .

Notes :
My only complaint regards the amount on the jar.
120 grams / 4.2 oz is not enough shaving soap ,
especially if the soap is a top-tier one.
I would really prefer a larger quantity of soap per jar.
150 gr / 5.3 oz to 170 / 6 oz gr would have been enough soap
to prolong the pleasure of shaving with it .
Greed for more ,I guess...

There isn't enough available for everybody.

Pointed the Goodfellas on this.

Stearic Acid , Cocoa Butter, Beef Tallow, Aqua, Aloe Vera Juice, Potassium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Coconut Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Avocado Oil, Castor Oil, Grapeseed Oil, Olive Oil, Donkey Milk, Hemp Oil, Shea Butter, Mango Seed Butter, Lanolin, Fragance, Sodium Lactate, Raw Honey, Xanthan Gum, Kaolin Clay, Tussah silk.

They say in the comments that the INCI labeling is not usable for the EU laws.

Code:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/iamtheshave/posts/1299987210956852/

If / when the artisan will update this, they'd market it.

Pretty good / above the average, but I've seen better.

After Glycerin is low dose ... as i say "homeopatic".

My only complaint regards the amount on the jar.

How much in Greece via forum for the combo soap / lotion?

Each soap jar of 120gr goes for 20€ .
Not sure about the price of the asl.

Not quite understood what you mean with
the glycerine at low dose .

Not quite understood what you mean with the glycerine at low dose.

The Glycerin normally is always low in concetration.
Everything comes after, has even lower concentration.

Residual slickness (secondary lubrification) is about hard components.
Waxes, clays, amids, proteins. Here, in the very last part of the formula.
This is the theory of what you feel in practice.

Thank you for the tip about glycerine.
Nice !

Overall its a well balanced ,high quality shaving
soap.
I think the artisan tallow soaps are kinda difficult to
be "finely balanced".At some the tallow content is
way to much ,making the lather " greasy " and
"heavy" ,but super slippery and protective.Scent
is affected by too much tallow also.

Other soaps do have lots of "solids" and less
tallow content but lack on protection .

Vegan formulas are more "predictable" I should say.
But it is a fine art to manufacture a good vegetable fat/oil
based soap that rivals the thick and creamy ,rich lather
of tallow based shaving soaps.Only few veg soaps do
succeed in that.The rest have a "light" ,
"feathery" and " dry " feeling lather.
And the scent does not get  affected from
the vegetable oils/fats ,at least in the magnitude
it does with tallow .

But still there are shaving soap formulas ,
that do contain a lot of glycerine ...
 This is the new ultima formula from A&E : 

Ingredients: Stearic Acid, Beef Tallow, (Vegetable) Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Potassium Hydroxide, Garcinia Indica Seed (Kokum) Butter, Theobroma Cacao Seed (Cocoa) Butter, Aqua (Water), Beer, Sodium Hydroxide, Shorea Robusta Seed Butter, Persea Gratissima (avocado) Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum (Cupuacu) Seed Butter, Emu Oil, Mangifera Indica seed (Mango) Butter, Elaeis Guinneensis (Palm Fruit) Oil, Sorbitol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil, Parfum (Fragrance), Caprae Lac (Goat Milk) Powder, Olea Europea (Olive) Oil, Sodium Lactate, Xanthan Gum, Agave Americana Leaf Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Silk Amino Acid

Glycerin is listed as third in quantity
ingredient .
So , I think that while is a good method 
of "eyeballing" the ingredients content does
not necessarily stand as true. 
Especially with all those different artisan 
formulas .I assume that for the more 
mass produced/industrial made shaving soaps,
the glycerin can indeed be a form of 
"threshold" about which ingredients are 
in abundance and which are not.

Glycerin is listed as third in quantity ingredient.

Not really frequent.
In any case, Glycerine in high concentration have the opposite effect.
So ... really this kind of formula has higher dose but not really high.
And the product is quite weak in consistency. More a cream than soap.

This is what Dimitris wrote about A&E
Ultima base at todays SOTD at the greek forum :
( translated from greek )
"Ultima is the best base of A&E. It moves in the paths of Macduffs, Murphy and McNeil and other American soaps with large amounts of glycerin. If you have the courage to work them with the brush, with gradual addition of water and with patience to achieve a structure, it is a good base. I usually don't have the patience or the time for all that and thus I don't like their initial gummy- glycerin "paste" of a lather.

This is what Dimitris wrote about A&E Ultima base at todays SOTD at the greek forum:
"I usually don't have the patience or the time for all that and thus I don't like their initial gummy- glycerin "paste" of a lather."

Agree totally.
And, I don't like the yield. Dozens of shaves, not hundres per soap.
In addiction, the enhanced primary lubrification can be too much for my taste.
I need a good grip on the skin to apply the basic technique.

Actually, for people with sensitive / dry skin all that Glycerine is not that good.
For my dermatitis It's not a good idea ... for sure!!!