As many of you are aware, I have a soap collection with over 200 shaving creams, artisan soaps, and hard pucks. Of those I have about 75 soaps that I rate as either elite or super elite that are in my current rotation. When I do my typical 4-pass shave using 4 different razors, any of those soaps will allow me to achieve a near-BBS shave with zero irritation. Thus, I do not consider it necessary to use the same soap for every blade evaluation. The primary difference between my elite and super elite soaps is whether the post shave feel persists for 16 hours or more than 24 hours. Thus, that difference is not significant for the purposes of this evaluation.
I have found that the sharpness of the blade is best evaluated by the performance on the 1st pass WTG. A great blade will go through 2 days growth with no tugging. Some good blades like 7 O'Clock Super platinum black have such as thick coating that they do not quite achieve that goal on the 1st pass with a new blade. However, they blades become super sharp as the coating wears off. They are one of my favorites.
I evaluate smoothness on my 3rd pass ATG and my 4th clean-up pass. Since most of the stubble will be gone by then, I experience the full feel of the blade on my skin. If the blade is not smooth enough, I will get feedback when I apply witch hazel after the shave. If a blade is smooth, I will get little or no feedback.
I have found that the sharpness of the blade is best evaluated by the performance on the 1st pass WTG. A great blade will go through 2 days growth with no tugging. Some good blades like 7 O'Clock Super platinum black have such as thick coating that they do not quite achieve that goal on the 1st pass with a new blade. However, they blades become super sharp as the coating wears off. They are one of my favorites.
I evaluate smoothness on my 3rd pass ATG and my 4th clean-up pass. Since most of the stubble will be gone by then, I experience the full feel of the blade on my skin. If the blade is not smooth enough, I will get feedback when I apply witch hazel after the shave. If a blade is smooth, I will get little or no feedback.