Inexpensive finishing stone

This is where I need to start doing more research, because Im just not sure what that exactly is.

I did find a guy on etsy that lives in Wales and sells slate stones that I was thinking of trying. They werent too expensive, and were a high grit progression, so I figured they might be fun to try out...

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Slate stones are tricky because there's just so many different types and vendors. They all work by the same principles - chalk embedded in quartz that cuts and polishes. I've tried a lot of them and haven't really fallen in love with slate stones in general. I have found there is a definite correlation between availability and claims that the stone is the best (when you can easily buy it, nobody seems interested, once it is gone, everybody raves about it), but then I'm a touch cynical when it comes to a lot of products.

Slate stones can get a very smooth edge, but I've found that they are some of the most inconsistent products I've ever used. The only sure-fire slate stones I've found are Thuris that are labeled (German Water Hone, Escher, etc). You can get them around 50-100 dollars if you're patient and discerning, but that's usually in some of the smaller 5"x1" sizings.

Coticules are a different sort of thing and work by polishing using garnets embedded within the stone. There are a bunch of confusing terms and veins with them, but they all work the same and generally are all capable of doing a great job honing (unlike slates.) If you go down the path of coticules I'd recommend "La Verte" vein stones, since they are fast cutters and don't really require a lot of playing around with slurries and the such.

A third option is a JNAT. It's insane how involved that can be, but for pure finishing you can get a solid stone at a decent price without worrying about all the nagura stones and such. They work differently than slates or coticules and have the highest grit capability of stones I've used. The slurry that the stones produce breaks down into finer and finer particulate during honing to give some of the sharper edges I've used.

For raw sharpest edge I've ever produced, the Gokumyo 20k is the best far and away. It is expensive, however, but extremely easy to use and consistent. Synthetic so it's really not rocket science. Use water, do 20-30 strokes, be amazed.

This is where I need to start doing more research, because Im just not sure what that exactly is.

I did find a guy on etsy that lives in Wales and sells slate stones that I was thinking of trying. They werent too expensive, and were a high grit progression, so I figured they might be fun to try out...

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk

Slate stones are tricky because there's just so many different types and vendors. They all work by the same principles - chalk embedded in quartz that cuts and polishes. I've tried a lot of them and haven't really fallen in love with slate stones in general. I have found there is a definite correlation between availability and claims that the stone is the best (when you can easily buy it, nobody seems interested, once it is gone, everybody raves about it), but then I'm a touch cynical when it comes to a lot of products.

Slate stones can get a very smooth edge, but I've found that they are some of the most inconsistent products I've ever used. The only sure-fire slate stones I've found are Thuris that are labeled (German Water Hone, Escher, etc). You can get them around 50-100 dollars if you're patient and discerning, but that's usually in some of the smaller 5"x1" sizings.

Coticules are a different sort of thing and work by polishing using garnets embedded within the stone. There are a bunch of confusing terms and veins with them, but they all work the same and generally are all capable of doing a great job honing (unlike slates.) If you go down the path of coticules I'd recommend "La Verte" vein stones, since they are fast cutters and don't really require a lot of playing around with slurries and the such.

A third option is a JNAT. It's insane how involved that can be, but for pure finishing you can get a solid stone at a decent price without worrying about all the nagura stones and such. They work differently than slates or coticules and have the highest grit capability of stones I've used. The slurry that the stones produce breaks down into finer and finer particulate during honing to give some of the sharper edges I've used.

For raw sharpest edge I've ever produced, the Gokumyo 20k is the best far and away. It is expensive, however, but extremely easy to use and consistent. Synthetic so it's really not rocket science. Use water, do 20-30 strokes, be amazed.

You just made it so much simpler to understand than hours of youtube and google. Thanks!

The slates this guy is selling are called Dragons lood, Mellynllyn, and something he just refers to as super fine, and he statea they are in the 15k range for the last. He sells all 3 with matching slurry stones for $80 in larke size(8x3), or $45 for medium size(6x2.25). Barber hone size is about $25 for all 3, but I dont want to go that small. I figured at the meduim sized price, i can get all 3 for about $80 shipped from Wales, so Im gonna give it a shot.

I also found a guy on etsy selling Jnats for reasonable prices, so Ill probably end up with one of them as well.

And like any good hobbyist collector, I will be keeping my eyes open for reasonably priced coticules as well.

I have synthetics up to 10k, and Im thinking of getting the Naniwa 12k to have it as well.

Man woukd you look at that rabbit hole?!

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I went down the same rabbit hole a few weeks ago and I decided on a 12k stone over a jNat just because my honing experience just isn't up there. I was told by a few people that when it comes to jNats you really never know what you are getting in to until you use it, so you could potentially be throwing money down the drain. If you have a lot of experience and know how to look at an edge and tell if it's honed properly, and have money to risk, than go for it. The other option is finding a Japanese Natural that someone is selling with experience and knows how that specific stone performs. Again I am basically repeating what others have told me in a different post.

Yea, Ive decided to stick with what Ive got for the time being. I get a really good and smoith edge using my Naniwa Specialty stones up to 10k and an unknown 12k(rough guess) finisher Ive had for years and years. Polish with chromium and iron oxides on a balsa strop, finish with a paddle strop.

I get great, smooth shaves that are starting to consistently approach near-bbs status using my full hollows, half hollow and near wedge equally. Im in the process of restoring a full wedge as well...

Ive sharpened thousands of blades in my life...knives from tiny pocket to cleavers, machetes, axes and hatchets, chisels, gouges, drill bits, saws including hand, power and chain varieties, clippers, cutters, shears, and lumbing tools, and all manner of sharpened steel. Straights are a progression of that, and while the edge is necessarily much more refined...the same basic techniques are used...

Eventually, I will get a Jnat, because...why not? Every straight razor guy should have one, right? Its another tool to accomplish another goal, so...one day...

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