Fragrance Terms

Grapefruit

The grapefruit (Citrus paradisi or Citrus x paradisi) is a small subtropical citrus tree known for its relatively large fruit. Although its botanical origins are uncertain, it appears to have come originally from northern China. It is thought to be a natural hybrid originating in Barbados as an accidental cross between the Jamaican sweet orange (C. sinensis) and the Indonesian pomelo or shaddock (C. maxima), both of which had been introduced to the West Indies from Asia by English captain Philip Shaddock by around 1692. The evergreen grapefruit trees usually grow to around 5-6m (16-29 ft) tall but can reach 30m, with a single trunk and many branches. The leaves are glossy, dark green, long, and thin. a tree produces white four-petaled flowers. The fruit's outer skin is light yellow- to orange-skinned (although a few are green) and generally is spherical, ranging in diameter from 10 to 15cm (4-6 in).


The tree was first cultivated documented in 1750 by a Rev. Griffith Hughes, who described it in his 'The Natural History of Barbados' and called it the 'forbidden fruit' because it reminded him of the biblical apple in the Garden of Eden. In 1814, naturalist John Lunan first used the term grapefruit in print to describe a similar Jamaican citrus plant, reporting that the name was due to its similarity in taste to the grape (Vitis vinifera). However, an alternative explanation was offered by botanist François Richard de Tussac, who suggested that the name may refer to clusters of fruit on the tree, appearing similar to grape bunches.


From Barbados, the plant was introduced to Florida in 1823 by Count Odet Philippe (the first permanent, non-native settler there), where it quickly became popular. Subsequent crosses produced the tangelo in 1905, the Minneola tangelo in 1931, and the oroblanco in 1984. Kimball Atwood founded the Atwood Grapefruit Company in the late 19th century, and its planting became the largest grapefruit grove in the world at the time, with a yearly output of 80,000 boxes of fruit. The pink grapefruit was first discovered there in 1906.


The fruit's interior flesh is segmented, and its colors range from white, through pale yellow or blush-pink, to ruby red. The darker coloration is due to the presence of lycopene. They are rich in nutrients, fiber, vitamins, and minerals. The taste is sour to semi-sweet or bitter. With ongoing research, horticulturalists learned how to remove the bitterness and improve the fruit's sweetness while still maintaining the tangy flavor. Grapefruit flavors result from varying compositions of sugars (mainly sucrose) and organic acids (mainly citric acid). The sweetest and least acidic are the red varieties, but yellow and pink ones are the most common. Radiation has been used to develop plants whose fruit retained the red tones that would usually fade naturally to pink.


The major commercial varieties are the Pink, Ruby Red, Star Ruby, Thompson, and White March, with the color name usually referring to the fruit's flesh and not the peel. The Star Ruby is the darkest of the red varieties; it has found only limited commercial success because it is more difficult to grow. The most popular grapefruit is the Ruby Red (or Reblush), patented in 1929 after it was discovered growing on a pink variety as a limb sport (a part of a plant that shows morphological differences from the rest of the plant). 


The US was for a long time the leading grower of grapefruit, but it has been overtaken by China. World production of grapefruit in 2019 was 9.3 million tons, of which 53% came from China. Other significant producers include Vietnam (0.8 ton), the United States (0.5 ton, mainly Florida), Mexico (0.5 ton), and South Africa (0.4 ton).


Commercial grapefruit oil is produced mainly in the US, the West Indies, Brazil, Israel, and Nigeria. The oil is expressed (cold pressed) or distilled from the peels, and to a lesser extent the seeds or even the whole fruit. The essential oil separates naturally from the pressed juice. Most commercial oil comes from the Duncan variety, light yellow fruits with a very light-colored flesh. It is thin and watery and yellow to green-yellow or pale orange-yellow in color. Since oil glands are located more deeply in grapefruit peel than in other citrus fruits, its oil is more difficult to extract and is more expensive than oils of lemon and orange.


A study in 1980 demonstrated that Florida grapefruit oil has at least 32 volatile compounds, and a 2001 study showed that 22 of them had significant aroma activity. In another study in 2002, limonene (93%), myrcene (1.5%), sabinene (0.6%), and α-pinene (0.6%) were determined as major aromatic compounds. Tisserand and Young (2014) reported similar results on grapefruit essential oil composition, confirming that it consisted mainly of limonene (90%) and bergamot (27%–52%). The aroma of grapefruit oil seems to be due mainly to the terpenes. The primary one is mercaptan (thiolimonene), which along with nootkatone are the substances that give a sulfurous 'tropical' character which differentiates grapefruit's smell from those of other citrus fruits. Mercaptan is extremely intense, providing its fruity note even at a presence of less than one part per billion in the oil. A major scent contribution also comes from natural saturated aldehydes, especially octanal, decanal, and dodecanal.


There is substantial chemical variation existing in the peel oil from different cultivars grown in the same region, as well as from cultivars grown in different regions, resulting in a wide range of grapefruit aroma qualities and standards. In addition, cold-pressed grapefruit oil sometimes is adulterated by the addition of lower-quality steam-distilled oil, isolated grapefruit terpenes, and sweet orange terpenes. Like most other citrus oils, grapefruit oil is unstable and deteriorates easily upon exposure to moisture, air, and daylight.

In order to create a brighter and more convincing citrus-smelling perfume ingredient, producers reduce the amount of limonene in the oil, usually by distilling it off under pressure at low temperatures. These are called 'folded' oils. For example, the designation '5x fold' or '5-fold' means that the oil must be diluted 5 times with limonene to return it to its original unfractionated version.


In his book 'The Diary of a Nose,' perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena expresses regret that natural grapefruit essential oil smells too much like orange, lacking somewhat the overall character of the smell of the fresh fruit. The smell that differentiate grapefruit somewhat from the other citruses is a particularly bitter, herbaceous woody aspect that is reminiscent of vetiver. This is mainly determined by nootkatone, whose concentration in the oil varies from 0.5% to 2%. The color of the fruit correlates directly with its overall scent composition: white grapefruit, sharp and bitter, has the highest amount of nootkatone and other minor components; while more intensely colored varieties, sweeter and more sensual, contain less of these substances but have a higher aldehyde content.

The chemical synthesis of nootkatone, now being used to fulfill market demand for grapefruit aroma because of low yields from natural plant sources, uses harmful chemicals and is very expensive. It takes about 4 tons of grapefruit to make 1kg of nootkatone. Therefore, attempts are being made to produce nootkatone from microbes through biotechnological approaches. The company Biotrans produces nootkatone from natural valencene derived from oranges, using the enzyme cytochrome p450. This can be called natural in product labeling but cannot be called 'natural grapefruit.'


Synthetics, primarily vetivone and valencene, are also used now in modern perfume products. Their odors provide a number of different facets in varying combinations. Each has its own nuances: dimethylcathinone and fructalate smell very fresh and citrusy; floropal and rhubafuran have rhubarb, green scent, with a touch of marijuana; khusinil, vigoflor and rhubofix share a distinct woody character, reminiscent of vetiver. Rhubofix in particular mimics the qualities of nootkatone. The synthetics, lasting longer than the natural scent components, are sometimes used as middle or base notes.

Citrus essential oils are the most popular group of aromatics in the natural fragrances market, although they are not universally admired, and grapefruit is not among the most favored citruses. In the 1990s, it was mainly used in the top citrus notes of masculine fragrances, but it is employed more widely now. It is a main ingredient of woody aromatic blends, especially summer compositions. Members of the chypre family frequently contain grapefruit along with other citruses, often paired with vetiver, oakmoss, iris, amber, and patchouli.

Grapefruit aroma offers an energetic yet calming and elegant aspect that sets it apart from other citrus fruits. It is lively and sparkling, fresh, cooling, and somewhat sour to bittersweet. As a result of continued cross-breeding, the essential oil's fragrance, like the taste of the fruit, has become 'softer' and with less character than in the past. The grapefruit scent note blends especially well with bergamot, mandarin, neroli, basil, frankincense, peppermint, rosemary, chamomile, clove, black pepper, nutmeg, fennel, ginger, lavender, oakmoss, cypress, cedarwood, rosewood, balsam, juniper, geranium, jasmine, patchouli, and ylang-ylang. The oil breaks down on the skin to form somewhat malodorous compounds, so fruit ester 'modifiers' are sometimes added to it to maintain a fresher floral scent after application.

Grapefruit has a long history of use in folk medicines around the world and has been used traditionally as an antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, astringent, and preservative. It is has popular as a remedy for cellulite and as an antidepressant. In aromatherapy, it is thought to be calming but stimulating and uplifting. It is also used commercially as a flavoring agent in foods and beverages and as a fragrance ingredient in soaps, detergents, and personal care products.

Masculine grapefruit fragrances:

Acqua di Gio Essenza
Agonist Solaris
Alfred Dunhill X-Centric
Alendor Taboo
Antonio Puig Quorum
Aramis Havana
Atelier Cologne Pomelo Paradis
Athena Vetiver
Autre Parfum Avant-Garde
Azzaro Chrome (various), Azzaro Jetlag, Azzaro LE 2016
Baldessarini Del Mar Marbella
Barbour
Benetton White Night
Bvlgari Aqua Marine, Bvlgari Man Extreme, Bvlgari Tygar
Burberry Mr. Burberry, Burberry Sport, Burberry Weekend
By Killian Smoke for the Soul
Carolina Herrera 212 Summer 2013, CH 212 Surf, CH Sport
Cacharel Amor Sunshine
Cartier Declaration l'Eau
Chanel Bleu
Chopard Malaki
Christian Dior Aqua Fahrenheit, CD Higher Energy, CD Homme Sport, CD Vetiver
Creed Himalaya
Davidoff Good Life
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue, D&G The One
Dzintars Sudrabotais Ledus Blue
Emanuel Ungaro Fresh
Estee Lauder Pleasures
Fiorucci Extreme Sport
Giorgio Armani Night
Giorgio Beverly Hills Ocean Dream
Givenchy Blue Label, Givenchy Fresh Attitude
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune, Guerlain l'Instant
Guy Laroche Drakkar Dynamik
Hermes Terre d'Hermes
Hugo Boss Boss in Motion, HB Boss Pure, HB Boss Selection, HB Boss Unlimited, HB Hugo Dark Blue
I-Scents Premium Blue Concept
Issey Miyake Sport Polar Expedition
Jacques Bogart Riviera Nights
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Terrible
Jeanne Arthes Joe Sorrento Sport
Jequiti Abyssal Homem Energy
Jo Malone Grapefruit
Kenzo Fresh
Korres Neos
Lange Orient Treasure
Loewe Sport Edicion Especial
Louis Cardin La Viola
Mont Blanc Emblem
Moschino Forever Sailing
Oriflame Ascendant Aqua, Oriflame Eclat Lui
Paco Rabanne 1 Million, PR Invictus
Paul Sebastian Silver
Paul Smith Sunshine Edition
Sean John Unforgivable Night
Tom Ford Mandarino di Amalfi
Tommy Hilfiger Freedom, TH True Star
Victorio & Lucchino No7 Frescor Mediterraneo
Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb
Yves Rocher Cypres et Pamplemousse
Zara Denim Couture, Zara Navy Black, Zara Norrland, Zara Vibrant Leather Parfum de Liberte

Pink grapefruit fragrances for men (generally sweeter):

Bvlgari Man Extreme (various)
Carolina Herrera 212 NYC Seductive
Cartier Declaration l'Eau
Emanuel Ungaro Cologne Extreme
Il Profvmo Cafe Vert
Karl Lagerfeld Bois de Vetiver
Kenzo Electric Wave
Kanon Kool
Lacoste Essential Sport
Nautica Gold Rush
Ralph Lauren Big Pony 4, RL Polo Red (various)
S.T. Dupont Paris by Night
Tommy Hilfiger Eau de Prep, TH Hilfiger
Van Gils Strictly for Night
Yohji Yamamoto His Love Story
Zara Black Edition

Good stuff, John! I really enjoy this thread.

"Citrus paradisi" I have a now discontinued Cold River Soap Works Oliva Citrus Paradisi. I never knew that was the actual name for the fruit. Nice scent, albeit a bit low on the scent strength. I realize that was probably by design.

I've had several shaving soap and aftershave dupes of Hermes Terre d'Hermes. I very much enjoy this scent profile. It makes sense since I love both vetiver and grapefruit.

Another beauty is West Coast Shaving Grapefroot Shaving Cream, made for WCS by Chris Cullen of Catie's Bubbles. It is more vetiver forward and earthy, but it has awesome staying power that I enjoy immensely!

Good stuff, John! I really enjoy this thread.

"Citrus paradisi" I have a now discontinued Cold River Soap Works Oliva Citrus Paradisi. I never knew that was the actual name for the fruit. Nice scent, albeit a bit low on the scent strength. I realize that was probably by design.

I've had several shaving soap and aftershave dupes of Hermes Terre d'Hermes. I very much enjoy this scent profile. It makes sense since I love both vetiver and grapefruit.

Another beauty is West Coast Shaving Grapefroot Shaving Cream, made for WCS by Chris Cullen of Catie's Bubbles. It is more vetiver forward and earthy, but it has awesome staying power that I enjoy immensely!

Thanks, Rob. I haven't tried many grapefruit scents in shaving software, but I do very much like Terre d'Hermes and Dior Homme Sport.

Love this post as I am very partial to grapefruit scents. My list of grapefruit soaps/creams in ranked order of scent preference.......

TOBS Grapefruit cream
Ethos Melange de Agrumes
Soap Commander Inspiration
Wholly Kaw Pompelo
A&E Pampelmousse
Meissner Grapefruit

Great unknown - Stirling Grapefruit - never could get a tub.



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Ginger

Ginger (Zingiber officinale) is an herbaceous reed-like plant whose fleshy rhizome, commonly called ginger root or just ginger, is used widely as a spice, a food or condiment, a source of fragrance, and a folk medicine. It is a perennial that grows to a height of about one meter and bears annual narrow-bladed leaves and white and pink buds that bloom into flowers with red or yellow petals, sometimes with purple edges. The plant arises directly from the underground rhizome on separate shoots. Ginger is in the family Zingiberaceae, which also includes turmeric, cardamom, and galangal.


The English origin of the word 'ginger' is derived from the Sanskrit word 'srngaveram' by way of Prakrit, Greek, Latin, mid-14th century Old English, Old French, and finally Middle English. It is not clear what exactly the Sanskrit word meant, but it is thought that it may have described the shape of the root.

Origination and Spread

Native to India, Malaysia, and possibly China, ginger most likely was first domesticated by Austronesians (peoples from maritime southeast Asia, Micronesia, coastal New Guinea, island Melanesia, Polynesia, and Madagascar with a common language), who also cultivated turmeric. The rhizomes and leaves were eaten by them or used to flavor food, and the leaves were used for weaving mats and hangings. Ginger also had religious significance for the Austronesians and was used in rituals. They transported it throughout the Indo-Pacific during their expansion 5,000-3,500 years ago, eventually reaching as far as Hawaii. They presumably also introduced it to India, Madagascar, and the Comoros. From India it was carried by traders to the Middle East and the Mediterranean, along with peppers, cloves, and other spices, by around the 1st century. Ginger is one of the first spices to have been exported from Asia.


The first written record of ginger comes from the Analects of Confucius, written in China sometime around 475-221 BC. In 406, the monk Faxian wrote that ginger was grown in pots and carried on Chinese ships for use to prevent scurvy. And there are records from the Song Dynasty (960-1279) showing that ginger was being imported into China. After its introduction to the Mediterranean by the Arabs, ginger was described by various Greek writers, including Ptolemy. It was also mentioned commonly by the Romans. By the Middle Ages, it was being imported into most of Europe, where it was described in the official pharmacopeias of several countries.

Growing, Harvesting, and Processing

Ginger is a true cultigen and no longer exists in its wild state. It is able to grow in a wide variety of land types and areas, but it is produced best when grown in a warm, humid environment at an elevation of 1,000-3,000 feet. A period of low rainfall prior to growing and well-distributed rainfall during growing are essential for it to thrive. In India, planting is usually done between March and June, at the beginning of the monsoon season. For fresh use as a vegetable or for candy, harvesting is done at 4-5 months after planting, whereas when the planting is done for dried ginger or ginger oil, harvesting must be done at 8-10 months. The older the plant gets, the more the root's scent dissipates, become only pungent. It most often is grown through homestead farming, with employees being family members or other local members of the community.


The size of the seed rhizome determines plant production: the larger the rhizome piece, the faster a plant will be produced and available for sale on the market.


Dried ginger (bleached or unbleached), one of the most popular forms exported commercially, must have its moisture content decreased from 80% to about 10%. The harvested rhizomes are soaked overnight and cleaned well by rubbing, after which the outer skin is scraped off with a bamboo splinter or wooden knife by hand in order to prevent sprouting. It is then allowed to sun-dry for 8-10 days (or is machine dried), graded, and hand 'polished' to remove dry skin and wrinkles. Ginger is sometimes bleached by repeated dipping in a slaked lime slurry, followed each time by drying; dry ginger can be bleached by a similar process. This liming gives the ginger a better appearance and less susceptibility to attack by insect pests during storage and shipping. When it arrives in terminal markets (eg New Delhi or Bombay) or the consuming country, the dried ginger is ground. The yield of dry ginger is about 20-25% by weight of the harvested fresh ginger.


Commercial fresh (green) ginger is not dried this way. It is suitable for immediate fresh consumption or for processing into preserved, pickled, or candied ginger for sale or export. When marketed for consumption, it is usually eaten fresh in the area where it is produced, although it is possible to transport fresh roots internationally.


In 2019, world production of ginger was 4.1 million tons, with India providing 44% of the total and substantial amounts from Nigeria, China, Brazil, and Japan. It is also grown in Nepal, the Caribbean, South America, and areas of Africa. A good deal of India's ginger is used domestically, and the country is only in seventh place in worldwide export of it, accounting for just 1-2% of total exports. Most of the world export of ginger comes from China.


Perfumery

Ginger has been used in perfumery for several centuries, since the discovery of distillation. Its scent is considered woody and spicy, with fresh, contrasting sweet and bitter nuances. Ginger's odor profile includes a spicy, fizzy, 'rising' top note aspect, with a pronounced fresh lemony citrus facet as well as a piney, soapy nuance. The aroma is fresh and sparkling, but at the same time pungent and peppery. In compositions, it is usually used as a middle note, although it also appears at times among top notes. As a middle note it blends well with resinous scents such as frankincense or sandalwood and with woods (especially cedarwood, red cedar, and rosewood) and other spicy notes, such as cinnamon, cardamom, and black pepper. When used as a top note, it blends nicely with citruses (especially mandarin and lemon) and florals (especially rose, geranium, jasmine, and carnation, whose sweetness it balances). It also is paired sometimes with neroli, bergamot, lemongrass, lavender, mint, basil, vanilla, juniper, and patchouli. Although its presence usually can be sensed immediately, it develops throughout the evolution of a perfume product on the skin, often felt even until the base notes. Fragrances with ginger work well in both warmer and cooler weather. The scent can be found in both feminine and masculine preparations, although most commonly in the former.

Ginger essential oil for perfumery is produced through steam distillation or supercritical CO2 distillation of the rhizome. The modern use of CO2 distillation has revealed previously unknown aspects of the overall aroma. Spicy ginger perfumes were especially popular during the Renaissance, but gradually fell into temporary disfavor during the early 20th century. Thanks to the creativity of more modern noses, however, they have made a marked comeback, beginning with Shalimar in 1925.


The characteristic fragrance of ginger results from volatile oils that make up 1-3% of the weight of the fresh rhizome, primarily consisting of sesquiterpenes such as zingerone, shogaols, and gingerols, with [6]-gingerol as the major aromatic compound. Gingerol is related to capsaicin and is one of the spicy components in chili peppers, albeit with low potency. Zingerone is produced from gingerols during the drying process and has lower pungency and a spicy-sweet aroma. Shogaols, formed from gingerols during heating or storage, are more pungent but maintain the same aroma. (This is why dried ginger powder adds more pungency than fresh ginger in cooking use.)


Other Uses

Dried ginger is a common kitchen spice, used as a flavoring for items such as gingerbread, cookies and cakes, crackers, ginger ale, and ginger beer. Candied or crystallized ginger (the root cooked in sugar until soft) is a type of confectionery. Young fresh ginger rhizomes are juicy and have a mild taste, and they can be pickled in vinegar or sherry for use as a snack or as an ingredient in cooked dishes. They also can be steeped in boiling water to make hot or cold herbal teas or made into candy or ginger wine. The juice from fresh ginger roots is often used as a seasoning in Indian, Chinese, Korean, Japanese, and Vietnamese dishes.


In the Caribbean, ginger is popular for use in cooking and for making drinks, such as sorrel during the Christmas season. Jamaicans make ginger beer, ginger tea, and a famous ginger cake. On the Greek island of Corfu, a type of ginger beer is made, adopted from the British. In Western cuisine, dried ginger is traditionally used mainly to flavor sweet foods, as well as being added to hot coffee or tea.

Ginger has had a role for centuries in traditional Ayurvedic medicine. It was thought to have antiseptic and immunity-boosting properties and has been reputed to promote the health of pregnant or nursing women. It also has had fame, especially in Europe, as a powerful aphrodisiac. In addition, it was consumed there in past centuries because it was thought to ward off the plague. There is some modern evidence for ginger having an anti-inflammatory effect and improving digestive function. A 2018 review found evidence that it could decrease body weight and increase HDL-cholesterol in obese subjects.

Because of its attractiveness and its adaptation to warmer climates, the ginger plant is often used for landscaping, especially around subtropical homes.

Masculine Fragrances with Ginger

Adolfo Dominguez Agua Fresca Citrus Cedro
Angel Schlesser Esprit de Gingembre pour Homme
Animale Black
Antonio Banderas Mediterraneo
Aramis Mustang
Avon Christian Lacroix Noir, Avon Free for Him, Avon Herve Leger Homme, Avon Up to You for Him
Azzaro pour Homme Ginger Lover, Azzaro Pure Cedrat, Azzaro Vibrant Leather, Azzaro Wanted
Balmain Monsieur
Banana Republic Slate
Beverly Hills Polo Club Titan
Bvlgari BLV pour Homme, Bvlgari Le Gemme Empyr, Bvlgari Tygar
Burberry Brit for Men, Burberry Sport for Men (var.)
Calvin Klein Euphoria Men (var.)
Carolina Herrera 212 Heroes, CH Ginger
Cartier Déclaration
Carven Shenandoah
Cerruti Si
Chanel Bleu de Chanel
Christian Dior Homme Sport (var.)
Comptoir Gingembre et Vetiver
Creed Tabarome, Creed Vetiver
Davidoff Run Wild
Dolce & Gabbana The One for Men
Ermenegildo Zegna Bourbon Vanilla
Erox Realm Men
Evaflor Whisky Homme Sport
Gucci Envy for Men
Guy Fox JP
Hermès
Hugo Boss Bottled Tonic, HB Element, HB The Scent, HB The Scent Absolute
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Tonique
John Varvatos Artisan Pure
Joop! Rococo for Men
Kenzo Once Upon a Time pour Homme
Lacoste L.12.12. Blanc Eau Fraîche for Him, Lacoste L.12.12. Energized
Lancome Hypnôse Homme
Louis Vuitton l'Immensité
Natura Homem
Nuancielo Ville
Oriflame I.D. Beats
Prada l'Homme Water Splash, Prada Infusion de Vetiver, Prada Luna Rossa Sport
Ralph Lauren Big Pony 3
Serge Lutens Five O'Clock au Gingembre
Thera Cosméticos Biblos, TC Drago
Tiffany Tiffany & Love for Him
Tom Ford for Men
Tommy Hilfiger Freedom, TH Summer 2021, TH Weekend Getaway
Valentino Uomo Born in Roma (var.)
Van Cleef & Arpels Zanzibar
Versace Black Jeans
Yanbal Solo
Yves Rocher Cyprès et Pamplemousse
Yves St. Laurent l'Homme, YSL l'Homme Ultime, YSL, Jazz Prestige, YSL Y Live
Zara Cologne, Z Midsummer Orange Zest, Z Night Skyline, Z Sport 6.0, Z Vibrant Leather Summer, Z Warm Black
Zirh
Zlatan Ibrahimovic Supreme pour Homme

There are many unisex fragrances with ginger.


White Ginger Lily

The white ginger lily (Hedychium coronarium, also commonly known as white ginger, Hawaiian white ginger, butterfly lily, or Indian garland flower), native to Asia, is a perennial flowering plant that is also in the ginger family Zingiberaceae. An upright plant that can reach 1-3m in height, it has long pointed leaves and heavily-scented white flowers with yellow bases. It typically grows in the forest understory, where pseudostems arise from underground rhizomes. It is native to the eastern Himalayas of India, Bangladesh, Nepal, and Bhutan; through northern Myanmar and Thailand and southern China; and east to Taiwan. It was transported and naturalized widely, to Hawaii, southern Africa, eastern Australia, Central and South America, and the Caribbean. It became the national flower of Cuba, known there as mariposa blanca ('white butterfly') due to its shape. In Hawaii it has been used commonly for making leis for visitors. White ginger is cultivated primarily as an ornamental, although it is also grown commercially in China for use in medicine and for production of an aromatic essential oil.


The amber-colored oil or absolute of white ginger flower, obtained from steam or solvent distillation of the flowers and leaves, displays an intense fragrance. It has a fresh, sweet, tropical floral smell, with a ginger-like fruity undertone that is reminiscent of jasmine, tuberose, and gardenia. The floral sweetness is very rich and deep and has excellent tenacity. It is thought that the constituents responsible for most of the scent are linalool, methyl jasmonate, eugenols, cis-jasmone, beta-ionone, and lactones.

White ginger usually is used in feminine fragrances, but it can appear in some unisex compositions and even a few masculine ones. It is used in the middle and base notes. Its note blends well with jasmine, cassia, sandalwood, balsam of Peru, cinnamon lavender, styrax, myrrh, frankincense, ginger, orris, patchouli, vanilla, and ylang-ylang.

Masculine Fragrances with White Ginger

Abercrombie & Fitch Intense.
Escada Moon Sparkle pour Homme

Unisex White Ginger Compositions

Amberfig Pluie d'Orange
CB I Hate Perfume White Ginger
Dame Soliflore Ginger Lily
Fragrenza Rame Verde
Hermès Un Jardin Apres la Mousson
Liana of Waikiki White Ginger
Louis Marie No.12 Bousval
Magnetic Scent Untitled 1
Olympic Orchids Kilauea
Persephenie White Ginger Lily
Phebo Flor de Maio
Phoenix Ka Pueo
PK Ginger Zest de Citron
Régime des Fleurs Leis
Renier De Lirius
Sarah Jessica Parker Stash SJP
Sultan Pasha Attars Jardin de Borneo White Ginger Lily
TRNP Blossom, TRNP East, TRNP Oasis, TRNP La Selva Sagrada

Lime

Lime is a citrus tree in the Rutaceae family. The tree seldom grows to more than 5m in height. Its branches spread and are irregular, with short twigs, small leaves, and many small spiny thorns. The smooth evergreen leaves are pale green. Small white flowers are produced, usually in clusters. The lemon-like fruit is usually 3-4cm in diameter, oval to nearly globular in shape, with a peel that is thin and greenish-yellow when the fruit is ripe. The pulp is tender, yellow-green in color, and quite acidic. Most limes have both more acid and more sugar than lemons, but a few varieties almost lacking citric acid are known as sweet limes. The fruit requires 5-6 months from flowering to harvest.


There are several species of citrus trees whose fruits are called limes, including the Key lime or Mexican Lime (c. aurantifolia), Persian lime (c. latifolia), Makrut or Thai lime (C. hystrix), and desert lime. It is difficult to identify exactly which species of fruit are being called lime in different parts of the world, partially due to the botanical complexity of the citrus genus. Species of the genus hybridize readily, and only recently have genetic studies begun to illustrate the structures. The majority of cultivated species are hybrids, produced from the citron (C. medica), the mandarin orange (C. reticulata), the pomelo (C. maxima), and the micrantha (C. hystrix var. micrantha).


For most commercial uses, two species are used, the Key lime and the Persian lime. The Key lime is used more for cocktails and pastries and in perfumery, while the larger and darker Persian lime is used mostly in perfumery.


The name comes through French and Arabic from the Persian word līmū, meaning 'lemon.'

All citrus fruits likely appeared initially around 8 million years ago in the Himalayan foothills of eastern Assam, northern Myanmar, and western Yunnan. When the climate changed, bringing weaker monsoons and drier weather, the plants were able to spread throughout southeast Asia. Recent genetic studies suggest an origin for C. aurantifolia, the true lime now known as the Mexican or Key lime, in Malaysia. Molecular data indicate that this lime's female parent was C. micrantha, native to the Philippines; and the male parents was C. medica, a juiceless citron that was the first cultivated citrus and probably came from India or New Guinea.

Lime trees were spread throughout the world via migration and trade. The makrut lime, in particular, was one of the earliest citrus fruits introduced to other parts of the world by humans, spread into Micronesia and Polynesia through the Austronesian expansion (c. 200-1500 BCE) and taken to the Middle East and the Mediterranean region via the spice and incense trade routes by around 1200 BCE. Atiphanes said in the 4th century that citrus had reached Greece from Persia by then, and ancient Rome was known to have limes, as well as lemons and citrons.

Limes were introduced to western European countries by the Moors and by returning Crusaders in the 12th and 13th centuries. Subsequently, Christopher Columbus took lime seeds to the West Indies in 1493. Other Spanish and Portuguese explorers probably also transported it to the Americas, and the trees soon became widely distributed in the Caribbean and in Mexico and Florida. The Spanish introduced commercial lime cultivation to their West Indies colonies in the 16th century.


During the 19th century, British sailors were issued a daily allowance of citrus, including lime, to prevent scurvy; the ships were provisioned with fruit from their colonies of Antigua and Barbados. Limes were preferred over lemons because they were less susceptible to fermentation, and the juice could be preserved with 15% rum. Thus the sailors acquired the nickname 'Limey.'


Commercial lime growing reached south Florida during the 1830s, with groves initially planted in natural and blasted potholes in the limestone bedrock. A Caribbean area 'Lime Juice Cordial' industry was launched in the 1860s when a method for preserving lime juice with sulfur dioxide was discovered. Limes were crushed between rollers at sugar cane mills, and the juice was decanted into wooden vats and allowed to settle. After two weeks, clear juice was drawn off, sweetened with sugar, treated with S02, and sealed in casks. A similar process is still used today, with current techniques including the addition of calcium carbonate to shorten the settling time, sweetening done with cane syrup, and the juice pasteurized before bottling.

Limes are grown commercially and produce fruit year-round, primarily in tropical and subtropical regions. The Persian lime is the most common, although the smaller Key lime or Mexican lime is also economically important.


World production of limes (combined with lemons for reporting) was 19.4 million tons. The top producing countries - Mexico, India, China, Argentina, Brazil, and Turkey - accounted for 65% of the total. Lime juice mainly comes from Mexico, Peru, Haiti, and Brazil.

Lime Essential Oil


Lime oil, mainly from the peel of the fruit, is processed mainly in the West Indies. It is obtained by manual or machine pressing (cold expression) and by steam distillation, the only citrus fruit processed in both ways. When machinery is used to press the entire fruit, the oil is separated from the juice with a centrifuge. (Sometimes the juice-oil slurry is sent on to a steam distillation unit.) Expressed oil has a full-bodied, green, spicy, woodsy aroma with sweet, lactonic undertones. It features much less of the characteristic citrusy limonene molecule than other citrus oils. It is given its woodsy-coniferous character by pinenes and a slightly medicinal-green aspect by 1,8-cineole, the main aroma constituent in Eucalyptus. It also contains methyl anthranilate, a grape-wintergreen molecule that also occurs in many white flowers, as well as coumarin, which gives it a coconut finish. The expressed oil is pale yellow, light olive, or even dark green in color.


Steam-distilled oil is produced either from the juice of the unripe fruit or from the crushed peels. The Mexican or Key lime is the main type used in distillation. The juice that is distilled comes into contact with steam for about 10 hours, reducing the citral content and producing alpha-terpineol (up to 7%). Distillation not only is cheaper, but also preferred for producing oil used in flavoring because it removes some of the characteristic bitterness and 'dry mouth' feeel that expressed oil has. The terpineol gives it sharpness, and its sweeter character is due to aliphatic aldehydes, with freshness provided by limonene. Most people prefer the distilled lime oil because it a smell more familiar and similar to that of all the lime-flavored products to which everyone is exposed through soft drinks and candies. Distilled oil is clear to pale yellow in color.


Both types of oil become less sweet during dry-down, evolving into more woodiness.

Pressed oil, preferred for having greater tenacity and complexity, and being closest in aroma to the fresh fruit, is produced in much smaller quantities than distilled oil and is much more expensive. It is produced primarily in the West Indies and on the islands of Grenada and Montserrat.

Use in Perfumery

Lime's scent note is sharp, fresh, zesty, vibrant, lively, green, and slightly woody. The odor is dryer, fresher, lighter, and sweeter than that of lemon. It is uplifting, sparkling, and stimulating, and it gives an exotic accent, especially when combined with neroli in cologne and chypre compositions and aldehydic perfumes. It is described by some as having Coca-cola and sour candy nuances. It is more striking than other citrus notes such as bergamot, lemon, orange, and mandarin, but it is very often blended with them. It usually appears as an intense top note, adding clarity and enhancing freshness. Other top notes can sometimes be too sweet, and lime is added to 'break' them. Lime is used to boost and refresh other top notes in oriental fragrances and to bring freshness to exotic floral compositions, especially those with cyclamen, lily, ylang-ylang, frangipani, and rose. It is often used in fougeres, adding an extra bit of coumarin. Lime blends well with citronella, clary sage, lavender, lemongrass, and rosemary.

The note also is present in mojito accords (mint, rum, and lime), such as that of Guerlain Homme, and it is combined and blends well with vanilla and coconut in tropical compositions. Lime actually blends well with members of all the olfactory families; it is most often associated with fresh perfumes such as eau fraîche. It is thought to have appeared first in commercial fragrances around 1800-1810.

Lime is found in many masculine fragrances, where its woodsy tone blends well with the typical wood bases. It is not just used in summer compositions; it adds lightness, sweetness, and intensity to fragrances for all seasons. Perfumer Julie Massé describes it as 'a fantastically juicy, tart, citrus note. When you smell it in a fragrance, you can almost feel it smarting on your tongue...'

Kitchen Use

In cookery, lime is useful both for its acidity and for the floral aroma of its zest. It is a common ingredient in the cuisine of many cultures, especially Mexican, Vietnamese, Thai, Iraqi (Persian), and eastern Arabian, frequently used along with mint to season rice and raw vegetables. Lime pickles and lime chutney are important parts of Indian cuisine.

Lime juice, especially that of C. aurantifolia, is used to flavor drinks, foods (such as salad dressings and baked goods), candy, and gum; and it may be concentrated, dried, frozen, or canned. It is one of the main components of Coca-Cola and citrus-flavored sodas (ginger ale, 7-Up, and others). Key lime gives a characteristic flavor to desserts, including Key lime pie; and in Australia, desert lime is used to make marmalade.


Lime juice may be squeezed from fresh limes or purchased in bottles in both unsweetened and sweetened forms. It is used to make limeade and as an ingredient in many cocktails.

Other Uses

Lime extracts and essential oils are often used in cleaning products, as well as in aromatherapy, often blended with pine and/or lemon oils. Citrate of lime and citric acid are also prepared from the fruit and are used for many commercial purposes. Lime is used often in saunas in combination with eucalyptus, where it is thought to cleanse the skin.


Lime is thought to have antispasmodic, anti-inflammatory, and sedative properties, and it has been used in a variety of folk medicine traditions, but modern evidence is scant. It has been used for centuries in Indian Tantric rituals to  ward off evil spirits.

Adverse Reactions

Contact with lime peel, juice, or cold-pressed essential oil, followed by exposure to sunlight or ultraviolet light, may cause a rash called phytophotodermatitis. This appears to be due to furanocoumarin compounds, especially bergapten. The peel contains higher concentrations of the chemicals than the pulp and so is significantly more phototoxic. Distilled lime oil does not cause this reaction.


Masculine fragrances with significant lime:
(starred items are consensus favorites)

4711 Acqua Colonia Lime & Nutmeg*
Ajmal Titanium
Anglia Imperial Lime, Anglia Spiced Limes
Aramis Always, Aramis Cool Blend, Aramis Tuscany
l'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada
Atelier Cologne Cedrat Enivrant*
Axe Recover
Ayala Moriel ArbitRary
Azzaro Ginger Lover, Azzaro pour Homme Cologne Intense, Azzaro Travelling, Azzaro Wanted Tonic
Bath House Cuban Cedar & Lime
Bond No 9 Coney Island, Bond No 9 I Love New York for Fathers
Boucheron Jaipur
Burberry Bris Summer 2012, Burberry Summer 2009
Calvin Klein Obsession
Carolina Herrera VIP Men (var.)
Carven Prague
Christian Dior Eau Sauvage
Clive Christian 1872
Clubman Pinaud Lime Sec*
Coach Blue
Coty Stetson (var.)
Crabtree & Evelyn West Indian Lime
Creed Virgin Island Water*
Crown Spiced Limes
DS & Durga Barbados, DS&D Burning Barbershop
Geo. F. Trumper Extract of Limes
Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio*
Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde*, Guerlain Habit Rouge (var.), Guerlain Homme*, Guerlain Homme l'Eau Boisee*, Guerlain Vetiver
Floris Limes
Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte*
Hollister Free Wave
Issey Miyake Nuit d'Issey Bleu Astral*
Kenzo Aquadisiac
Lacoste Live
Lancome Trophee
Liz Claiborne Bora Bora*
Masaki Matsushima Aqua Mat
Montale Aoud Lime*
Montblanc Legend SE 2014
Odore Mio Fresh Lime
Oriflame Paradise
Pecksniff's Active
Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet*
Perry Ellis 360 Degrees Red
Pino Silvestre Modern Dandy
Ralph Lauren Big Pony 1, RL Chaps
Rasasi Chastity
Royal Barber Silver Razor
Royal Copenhagen 1775 Classic
Royall Lyme Bermuda Royall Lyme*
Shulton Old Spice Lime
Taylor of Old Bond Street No 74*
Tommy Bahama Set Sail St. Barts*
Tommy Hilfiger Citrus Brights, TH T
Truefitt & Hill Sandalwood, T&H West Indian Lime
Versace Baby Blue Jeans
Yardley Gold
Yves Rocher Antarctic, YR Bois de Cedre et Citron Vert, YR Comme Une Evidence Green
Zara Silver
Zirh

Limetta

Limetta (aka sweet lime, sweet lemon, sweet limetta, mousambi), considered to be a hybrid between bitter orange and citron, is also used in perfumery. It has a fine citrus scent reminiscent of lime but less acidic and slightly sweeter. One masculine fragrance with limetta is Sybarite Spicy Calabria.


Finger Lime (C. australasica)

The finger lime (sometimes called caviar lime or caviar lemon) is a shrub or small tree of lowland tropical rainforest in the coastal border area of Queensland and New South Wales, Australia. Its oil is used in perfumery and has a fresh, sweet, clean, citrus fragrance with balsamic coumarin undertones. Masculine fragrances with finger lime include Jimmy Choo Urban Hero, Lacoste L.12.12 EdP Blanc, and Perry Ellis Bold Red.


Kaffir Lime (c. hystrix)

The Kaffir lime or Makrut lime, including the leaves, is sometimes used in perfumery. Masculine compositions containing it include l'Bel 1200 Degrees C and Jequiti Azul.


Mojito

Mojito is a fresh fantasy note reminiscent of the mojito drink (lime, mint, sometimes rum).


Masculine fragrances said to have this note include:

Antonio Banderas Cocktail Seduction Blue
Calvin Klein CK One Shock Street Edition, CK Encounter Fresh
Caribbean Joe
Carolina Herrera 212 Men Pop!
David Beckham Beyond
Demeter Mojito (unisex)
Guerlain Homme
Masaki Matsuchima Mat;Stone
New Yorker Style Up

Evergreen Conifer Fragrances: Pine, Fir, and Spruce

An evergreen is a plant that has foliage which remains green and functional through more than one growing season, contrasting with deciduous plants, which completely lose their foliage during the winter or dry season. There are many types, including most species of conifers, live oak, holly, rainforest trees, and clubmosses. Most tropical rainforest plants and warm temperate climate plants are evergreens. In cooler temperate climates, conifer trees predominate because they can tolerate more severe cold temperatures.

Conifer scent oils can be made from the leaves (needles) of the trees, in which case they function mainly as top notes, or from other parts of the tree, in which case they can be top to heart notes. Synthetic evergreen notes also sometimes act in a fragrance's base. Evergreen scents are classified in the woods and mosses fragrance family. When their notes are listed among the ingredients of a perfume product, it is often not made clear whether they are from the leaves, from the wood, or with an accord that includes synthetics.


Each part of the trees, including the needles, the resin, the wood, and the bark, has its own distinctive scents. A variety of evergreen scents are used in perfumery, but the major ones are pine, fir, and spruce. Although they also are evergreen conifers, cypress, juniper, and cedar are so ubiquitous that they will not be discussed here. They will have their own separate posts.

The primary source of aroma in evergreens is the terpene chemical group. There are several hundred terpenes found in conifers. These include pinene, which is one of the most abundant and which produces the fresh woodsy aroma that people associate with Christmas trees. Pinene occurs naturally as two isomers, alpha-pinene and beta-pinene. In most trees, the alpha form is the more abundant. Other aromatic terpenes released by conifers include limonene, which provides a citrusy scent; myrcene, which has the smell of thyme; camphene, which gives the aroma of camphor; and phellandrene, which produces a minty smell.

Terpenes can react with some airborne chemicals to form small aerosol particles that act as atmospheric 'seeds' for clouds, forming clouds from water vapor. The resulting cloud cover can have a cooling effect on the forest. The aerosols formed by terpenes have a scattering effect on the wavelengths of sunlight and are responsible for the blue haze that is sometimes visible over pine-covered mountains.


Other non-terpene compounds also play a part in the aroma of conifers, especially that of pines. The major one is bornyl acetate, an ester which provides a fresh, clean tone.

Conifer fragrance oil, composed of combinations of synthetic chemicals, is used more often than natural essential oils to give an evergreen smell to soaps, lotions, candles, linen sprays, potpourri, home scents, and other non-perfume products.


Masculine fragrances with mixed coniferous notes:

Aesop Hwyl
Alkemia Falling Stars at Winter Solstice, Alkemia Mesnee d'Hellequin, Alkemia Woods on a Snowy Evening
American Perfumer Bloodline
Annick Goutal Nuit Etoilee
Areej le Dore Russian Musk
Barrister & Mann Fougere Gothique
Caron Yatagan
Comme des Garcons Hinoki, CdG Incense Zagorsk
Dasein Winter, Dasein Winter Nights
DS & Durga El Cosmico
Evocative Siberian Fir
Heretic Blood Cedar
Imaginary Authors Cape Heartache
Lvnea Ghost Pine
Madhat Fur, Madhat Winter XVI
Matriarch Future's Past, Matriarch Sacre Noir
Olympic Orchids Olympic Rainforest
Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles
Slumberhouse Grev, Slumberhouse Norne
Soivohle Twelve Keys
Svensk En
Tiziana Terenzi Ecstasy


Pine

A pine is any conifer tree or shrub in the genus Pinus of the family Pinaceae. The American Conifer Society (ACS) lists 121 species in the genus. The pine family is the largest one within the conifers group, with almost 130 species and 818 named cultivars recognized by the ACS. Pines are native to the northern hemisphere and to a few areas reaching from the tropics to temperate regions of the southern hemisphere. Most regions of the northern hemisphere have some types of native pine species. Pines are found in a large variety of environments, ranging from semi-arid desert to rainforests, from sea level up to 5200m, and from the coldest to the hottest of Earth's environments. In the more southern regions they are restricted mostly to colder mountain regions.


Various pine species have been introduced to temperate and subtropical regions of both hemispheres, where they are grown as timber or are cultivated as ornamental plants in parks and gardens. Some of these introduced species have become naturalized, and some species are now considered invasive, threatening the native ecosystems.

Pines grow to a height of 3-80m, with the majority reaching 15-45m. They are long-lived, typically attaining ages of 100-1000 years or more. The branches, needles, and cones grow in a spiral pattern. The new spring shoots point upward at first, later spreading downward. Pines have four types of leaf: seedlings, juvenile leaves, scale leaves, and adult leaves (needles). The needles are green and are bundled in clusters, usually numbering 2-5 per cluster. Each tree produces both male and female cones, with the male cones present only for a short period before shedding pollen and falling off. Each mature female cone has spirally arranged scales, with two seeds per scale.


The modern English word 'pine' derives from Latin pinus, which can be traced to an Indo-European base meaning resin. Before the 19th century, pines often were referred to as firs (from Old Norse fura). In some European languages, Germanic forms of the Old Norse name are still in use for pines, but in modern English the word 'fir' is restricted now for the most part to the Abies.

Pinus is the largest genus of Pinaceae pine family, which first appeared in the Jurassic period and diverged at that time into the pines, firs, spruces, hemlocks, and larches. The evolutionary history of the genus Pinus has been complicated by frequent interspecies breeding and hybridization.

In ancient Egypt, pine resin was used in embalming to prevent early decay. The resin was used by the Greeks to seal ceramic wine vessels and was added to fermenting graps for flavor and possibly for medicinal and spiritual properties. Pine tar has long been used to protect surfaces such as boat hulls. Pine branches, cones, and needles also were used in various ancient ceremonies. In modern times, pine wood has been used often for flooring, building construction, paper, and cheap furniture. Turpentine and pine tar water have been used in veterinary treatments, and people have used the resin externally for infections and inflammation and internally for coughs and respiratory infections, allergies, and urinary tract infections. In aromatherapy, pine is added to baths to boost immunity and relieve insomnia.

Pine essential oil is obtained from the needles, stumps, shoots and twigs, and sometimes even the cones by steam distillation, solvent extraction followed by distillation, or destructive distillation (a chemical process in which the material is heated to a high temperature in the absence of air or in the presence of limited oxygen or other reagents or catalysts). The species used most often for oil is Scotch pine (P. sylvestris). The essential oil is colorless to light amber. It is insoluble in water but dissolves in alcohol. Synthetic pine oil is produced by conversion of natural terpene hydrocarbons into terpene alcohols.


The overall scent of pine is unique. Generally, regardless of species, it is aromatic, resinous, green, and slightly like eucalyptus. It has a crisp, somewhat dry, icy quality, with a barely noticeable touch of menthol, and its undertones are much more herbal than woody. It is complex, bold, spicy, and vital. Among the conifers, it is most similar to spruce. The pine note used in perfumery is not at all a turpentine or cleaning product smell, but rather a gentle green scent. As it dries, it becomes sweeter and almost floral in nature. It is used in fragrances for both genders, but more commonly in masculine ones. Pine oil fragrances can differ considerably, depending upon the species and how the aromatic material was extracted. Pine was a favorite of early Arab perfumers, who liked to use it in various combinations, particularly with frankincense.

While other pine extracts mostly smell similar to each other, ponderosa pine oil uniquely has notes of vanilla and caramel and a distinct anise-like smell. Scotch pine (P. sylvestris) oil gourmand notes at the beginning, reminiscent of bread dough; but it evolves into more pure fresh-cut pine, with just a hint of anise and turpentine. Dwarf mountain pine (P. mugo) has a prominent pine smell, but it also has undertones of dry, woody, smoky sawdust and an unusual note the is similar to that of raw carrots. The oil of ocean or commercial pine (P. pinaster) has a strong woody pine smell, but also an odd weedy note. Swiss stone pine (P. cembra) has a resinous, green, woody, aromatic scent that brings to mind Christmas trees, and it adds some strong floral notes as it develops.

Pine scent, mainly synthetic, is also used in cleaning products, disinfectants, sanitizers, insecticides, and air fresheners, as well as in bath products. Pine oil is also used as a lubricant in expensive clockwork instruments, as a solvent, and in chemical manufacturing and various other industrial processes.

Turpentine is a fluid obtained by steam distillation of tree resin, mainly from pines. It is not used directly in perfumery but is employed as a solvent and a source of organic compounds (including synthetic terpenes used in scented products). In the past it was used as a medicinal elixir, a lamp fuel to replace whale oil, and an additive to gasoline to cover the smell.

Masculine fragrances with pine notes:

Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Cipresso di Toscana (Pine needle)
Adidas Active Bodies, Adidas Adventure
Adolfo Dominguez Agua Fresca
Ajmal Zeal
Amouage Lyric Man
Antonio Puig Quorum
Aramis Devin, Aramis Mustang Blue
Avon Destination Wilderness
Azzaro Chrome
Black Phoenix The Jersey Devil
Bottega Veneta Essence Aromatique, BV Extreme, BV pour Homme
Burdin En Garde!
Calvin Klein Obsession
Caron Yatagan
Cerruti 1881 (var.)
Christian Dior Eden-Roc
Courreges Niagara
Creed Epicea, Creed Windsor
Cuba Paris Wild Heart
DS & Durga Amber Kiso, DS&D Freetrapper
Ermenegildo Zegna Roman Wood
Galimard Uralskaya Taiga
Givenchy Pi Leather Jacket
Guy Laroche Horizon
Halston 1-12, Halston 101
Histoires de parfums 1828
Hugo Boss Hugo Man
Jacques Bogart One Man Show
Jil Sander Man III
John Varvatos Artisan Blu, JV Star USA
Kenzo Homme Fresh
Krizia Uomo
Lacoste L.12.12. Blanc, Lacoste Red
Lancome Balafre
La Rive Athletic Man
Le Prince Jardinier Arboretum
Memo Russian Leather (Pine needle)
Molton Brown Jubilant Pine & Patchouli, MB Russian Leather
Nina Ricci Phileas
Oleg Cassini Reporter
Oriflame Excite Force
Paco Rabanne 1 Million
Paris Elysees, Handsome, PE Vodka Extreme
Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet
Pino Silvestre Original
Profumum Roma Arso
Ralph Lauren Polo (Green), RL Polo Crest, RL Romance
Rituals Maharaja d'Or
Rochas Macassar
Sergio Soldano Black
Tommy Hilfiger T
Ulric de Varens UDV Black
Victor Silvestre
Visconti di Modrone Acqua di Selva
Weil Kipling
Xerjoff Accento Overdose
Yardley Gentleman Elite

Fir

Firs (Abies) are a genus of around 50 species in the same Pinaceae family. They are found on mountains throughout much of North and Central America, Europe, Asia, and North Africa. The genus is most closely related to cedar (Cedrus).


They are large trees, reaching heights of 10-80m. Firs can be distinguished from other conifers by the way in which their needles are attached singly to the branches with a base resembling a suction cup and by their cones, which (like those of true cedars) generally stand upright on the branches like candles and disintegrate at maturity to release winged seeds. Some of the largest fir cones, such as those of the Douglas fir, hang downward.


The genus name Abies is derived from the Latin for 'to rise,' referring to the height of the species. The common English name comes from the Old Norse fyri or Old Danish fyr.

Generally, fir essential oil has a sweet, balsamic, aromatic, green, spicy fragrance. Like pine scents, fir aromas are quite diverse and depend on the species and extraction process.


Canadian balsam fir (A. balsamea) produces an oil with a typical fresh, ethereal, cool, evergreen scent, sharp and resinous but somewhat sweeter and lighter than other conifers. As it dries down it becomes even sweeter and woodier, but that phase disappears quickly. Balsam fir absolute, thicker and stickier, has a much heavier, richer, sweeter scent, with better longevity and persistent sillage. It conveys the smell of both the cut wood and the needles; as it dries down it changes from the moist scent of a freshly cut tree to the smell of newly cut lumber, with a faint smoky note and nuances of clover, hay, and dried fruits.

Silver (Swedish) fir (A. alba), common in Europe, yields an essential oil with fresh evergreen notes but also some camphorous, warmer, more aromatic ones. It has a green, vegetable-like note that Balsam fir lacks and has better longevity. As it evolves, the scent becomes lighter, thinner, and more like fresh needles. Silver fir oil's note lasts so long that it can be used as a heart note. An oil made from the cones of the silver fir, called templin, starts out with a sharp, varnish-like smell but then mellows into a typical conifer aroma. It is a bit deeper, darker, and woodier than the needle oil, but it has less longevity. The cedar tree also is in the Silver fir family, and its oil is used frequently in perfumery.

The oil of Siberian fir (A. sibirica), which grows on the mountains and taiga of Eastern Europe, starts out camphorous, woody, spicy, and sweet, with hints of tarragon, cinnamon, and raw bread dough; but as it dries down, it becomes fresher, almost like spearmint, but with the typical woody-balsamic evergreen tone. Lasting only an hour, it makes a nice top note.

Gas chromatography shows 17 chemical components of fir needle oil contributing to its fragrance. The one in the highest proportion is bornyl acetate at 34%. Other major ones include alpha- and beta-pinene, camphene, limonene, and beta-phellandrene.

Masculine fragrances with fir notes:

Abercrombie & Fitch Fierce
Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Cipresso di Toscana
Alfred Dunhill Edition
Aramis Havana, Aramis JHL, Aramis Mustang
Arquiste Aleksandr
Art of Shaving Sandalwood
l'Artisan Fou d'Absinthe (Canadian balsam)
Avon Friktion (Canadian balsam)
Ayala Moriel Rainforest
Bottega Veneta Illusione, BV pour Homme
Cacharel
Calvin Klein Dark Obsession
Cartier Pasha de Cartier
Christian Dior Jules
Christian Lacroix Bazar
Clive Christian Chasing the Dragon, CC L, CC Matsukita
Coty Aspen
Creed Erolfa
Davidoff Cool Water Deep, Davidoff Run Wild
Decotto di Neve Gravita Dentro di Noi
Floris Elite
Fragonard Vetyver
Giorgio Armani Acqu di Gio Profondo Lights
Gucci Nobile
Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir
Hermes Eau des Merveilles LE
Hugo Boss Hugo (var.), HB Just Different, HB Man on the Go
Jacques Battini de l'Ambre Shady (Canadian balsam)
Jean Luc Amsler Prive Homme (Canadian balsam)
Jean Patou
John Varvatos Vintage, JV 10th Anniversary (Canadian balsam)
Joop! Go
Keith Urban Phoenix (Canadian balsam)
Korres Blue Sage Lime Fir Wood
Lacoste Eau de Sport
Liz Claiborne Mambo Mix
Loewe Esencia 40 Aniversario
Marly Percival
Memo Sicilian Leather
M. Micallef Imperial Santal, MM Spicy
Michael Jordan
Michael Kors Michael
Oscar de la Renta Oscar
Paul Sebastian Silver
Penhaligon's Agarbathi, Penhaligon's Luna
Pino Silvestre Acqua di Pino Fougere
Reflexion Foret du Nord
Rochas Globe
Satori Musk Blue (Canadian balsam)
Tabac (Original)
Ted Baker M
Thierry Mugler A*Men Ultimate
Tru 1879
Thierry Mugler A*Men Ultimate
Versace Blue Jeans, Versace Green Jeans
Victorio & Lucchino No 1 Wild Vitality
Zepter Swisso Logical Philip (Canadian balsam)


Spruce

Spruce is a tree of the genus Picea, consisting of around 35 species of evergreens in the family Pinaceae. It is found in the Northern Hemisphere in temperate and boreal (taiga) regions. The trees are large, around 20-60m in height when mature, with whorled branches and a conical form.


Spruce can be distinguished from other conifers by their needles, which are four-sided and attached singly to small peg-like structures on the branches, and by their cones, which hang downwards after being pollinated and have no protruding bracts (scales).


The etymology of the word 'spruce' is unclear. The Polish phrase 'z Prus' (meaning 'from Prussia') sounds to English ears like spruce, and this seems to have been a generic term for commodities brought to England from that region. It is also argued that the word is derived from the Old French term Pruce, meaning Prussia.

The essential oil is steam-distilled from the needles and twigs of fir trees, primarily Canadian spruce (P. mariana). It has a fresh, green, woody scent with a balsamic top note and a sweet and fruity undertone reminiscent of fresh natural pinewood. It has a contrasting somewhat 'oily' drydown. The Canadian spruce scent blends particularly well with cedarwood, lavandin, and rosemary.
One other variant, Black spruce (P. mariana), has a darker-smelling, fir-like coniferous smell and is used less often in perfumery.


The scent is prevalent in air fresheners and other aerosol sprays with a 'forest' type of smell.

Masculine fragrances with spruce notes:

Al Haramain Favorite
Atkinsons Duke
Avon Elite Gentleman
Bonny Doon Farm Uplands
Davidoff Cool Water Ice Fresh
John Varvatos Star USA
Kenzo l'Eau 2
La Martina Sueno Hombre
Molyneux Captain
Perlier Ginepro della Corsica
Rasasi Egra
Ted Lapidus
Tommy Hilfiger Tommy 10

Hay

Hay is a word used commonly for cut dried grass, which most often is used as animal feed for domestic herbivorous animals, especially in the winter, when grazing on pasture or rangeland is not feasible due to weather. It is also used when lush pasture is not available or would be too rich for the health of the animals or when the animals are being kept in a stable or barn.


Many different plants have been used throughout history to feed animals. The first farmers cut wild grasses for their livestock, eventually employing domesticated grasses, mainly alfalfa. Native to Asia, alfalfa spread rapidly to other parts of the world. It was grown in Central and North America by the early 1700s and in California by the mid-1800s. Timothy and clover, both native to Europe, were the plants initially used most often in the US for hay, but alfalfa overtook them in popularity by the end of the 19th century and has remained the major plant for hay.

Plants most commonly used today for hay include mixtures of grasses such as ryegrass, timothy, brome, fescue, Bermuda, and orchard, and legumes, such as alfalfa and clovers. Timothy grass and clover were the plants most commonly used for hay in the United States in the early 20th century. Oats, barley, and wheat plant materials also are sometimes cut green and made into hay for fodder; but more often they are used in the form of straw (a lower nutrition byproduct of the baling of stems and dead leaves), sometimes employed as a source of dietary fiber.

Hay is quite sensitive to weather conditions, especially when it is harvested. Hay harvesting is commonly called 'making hay' or 'haymaking,' which explains the origin of the idiom 'making hay while the sun shines.' Hay that is too wet at cutting may develop rot and mold after being baled. Harvest involves multiple steps. Whether done by hand or with modern mechanized equipment, the grass at the proper stage of maturity must be cut, allowed to dry (preferably in the sun) or 'cure,' raked into long, narrow piles known as windrows, gathered in some form (usually by some type of baling or bundling), and placed into storage as a haystack or in a barn or shed to protect it from moisture and rot. A rainy climate may dictate forced-air curing in a barn. Properly cured hay with 20% or less moisture may be stored for months without spoilage.


With the appearance in the 1960s of large bales, more hay was stored outdoors because the outer surface of the large bale performed a weather-shedding function and the large bales could be stacked efficiently. To completely keep moisture out, outside haystacks or bales can be covered by tarps, and round bales are sometimes wrapped in plastic as part of the baling process.


Until the 18th century, haymaking was a cumbersome task with little output because of the use of crude hand tools. On a good day, a farmer could harvest around one acre of hay. In the past, hay was cut by sickles and scythes by teams of workers, dried in the field, and gathered loose on wagons. Around 1790, hay production was greatly increased due to the introduction of new machinery created during the Industrial Revolution, with the main innovation being the wooden rake. By the early 19th century, haying was done with horse- or oxen-drawn implements such as mowers, allowing the use of large expanses of land.


In 1865, barn hay forks were developed; and in 1875, hay loaders and steam-powered engines were being used. With the invention and evolution of agricultural machinery such as the gasoline tractor and baler from 1905 through the 1930s, most hay production became mechanized.

Hay baling started with the invention of the hay press around 1850. The original machines used a horse-driven screw-press mechanism or a dropped weight to compress the hay. By around 1882, steam-powered baling machines were available, and in 1914 the continuous baler was introduced. The first hay bales weighed about 300 pounds.


Modern balers, developed around 1940, can produce bales in different sizes and shapes. The first ones made bales small enough for one person to lift, tied with wire or twine and usually weighing 70-100 pounds each.


Eventually, to ease labor and increase safety, mechanized loaders and stackers were developed. Later in the 20th century, balers were developed that were capable of producing huge bales weighing up to 3,000 pounds. Round or cylindrical bales are more difficult to handle than square bales but compress the hay more tightly. A wrapper may be used to seal a round bale completely and trigger a fermentation process, which acts as a preservative by preventing mold and rot.


In less developed countries, haystacks are still used. They can provide protection from weather, depending on the surface mass and shape (usually conical or with a ridged top), preserving most of the hay sufficiently to last through the winter. The top of such stacks sometimes is thatched by hand to provide better protection. The top surface of the stack generally is consigned to becoming compost the next summer. Haystacks may be built on top of a foundation, made of wood or brush and laid on the ground to reduce spoilage. They are sometimes covered with a moveable roof supported by four posts, historically called a Dutch roof, hay barrack, or hay cap. In some regions, such as areas of easter Europe, hay is stacked loose, built around a central pole or tree or within an area of three or four poles that add stability to the pile.


Use in Perfumery

Hay absolute or essential oil is obtained by extraction with volatile solvents (absolute) or by steam distillation (oil), with the oil more commonly used in perfumes. The majority of the oil is produced in the south of France.


The absolute is very viscous, with a dark forest green color that appears almost black. Initially it smells somewhat like licorice, with great density and sharpness, but within moments, the sharpness subsides and the aroma transforms into something more like sweet dried prunes. Eventually, over the course of hours, its fragrance becomes the grassy one typical of the essential oil. In some compositions with natural hay, the licorice note resurfaces intermittently. Many modern perfume products use synthetic hay notes, whose chemical structures have been derived through the use of headspace technology and other analytical processes. The main volatile compounds identified have included linalool, linalyl acetate, geraniol, and coumarin, with smaller amounts of others.

In perfume products, hay provides the sweet, green, dense, aromatic fragrance of cut grass, sometimes with the added sweetness of clover. Similar to coumarin, it is rich, pungent, herbaceous, woody, and earthy, described by some as having a dried fig essence and sometimes a slight floral tone. It sometimes has a touch of nuttiness or saltiness. In its drydown, it has a sweet tobacco-like warmth. Hay is reminiscent of barns, horses, summertime grass, carefree moments, freedom, and wide open spaces. It is an archetypal smell, bringing to mind our common ancestral heritage of herding and farming. The aroma is calming, relaxing, and inviting.

The smell of hay extract varies depending upon the type of plant material from which it was derived. Says agricultural extension agent Henry Hibbs, 'There is definite difference in the smell of alfalfa, bermuda, and fescue hay. The most notable is the difference between the legumes and the grasses. It sounds like the description of a wine... The alfalfa is a fuller, richer, and more pungent and slightly tangy-earthy smell, while the other extreme would be well sun-dried Bermuda hay, which has a fresh, clean, sunny smell. Fescues, simply because of the broader leaf and increased time required to dry in a windrow, has a tangier and heavier smell. sometimes seeming a bit musty. Timothy is especially nice because it has the least 'dry hay' smell." Orchard grass and brome, grown more in the West and Midwest, have a distinct aroma as a result of the different soils and humidity there.

The scent is complex and medium in strength, and most often it appears in the base or middle notes. Hay usually is classed in the amber family or the woody group. The hay note appears in a wide variety of fragrance types, but it has been used primarily in fougere, aromatic, and lavender compositions. It blends especially well with citrus, clary sage, ylang-ylang, tea, amber, woods, leather notes, and green notes.

Masculine fragrances with prominent hay notes:

Alfred Dunhill Blend 30
Ayala Moriel Rainforest
Claus Porto Musgo Real Agua de Colonia No 2 Oak Moss
Dolce & Gabbana Intenso
Etienne Aigner Super Fragrance
Faberge Cellini
Hendley Mown
Instituto Espanol Poseidon Impulse
Jean Patou Prive
Ligne St. Barth
Molinard Homme II
Neil Morris Flowers for Men: Gardenia
Nicolai Createur Carre d'As
Oleg Cassini
Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque Aviron Bayonnais Rugby
Poesie Sir
Rising Phoenix Fougere
Rosine Rose d'Homme
Victorinox Swiss Army 125 Years Your Companion for Life
Weil Gentilhomme

Smoke

The word 'smoke' is a term used in perfumery to describe accords or notes reminiscent of fire smoke, not an indication of actual burning residue. The history of perfumery is thought to have begun with smoke itself, initially in cave fires after the discovery of fire, and later in the form of burning incense that was a vehicle for prayers by the ancient Egyptians and Greeks. The word perfume is derived from the Latin per fumem, meaning 'by smoke.'


Smoke scent notes are used as part of creating the illusory effects of leather or firewood, among other accords. A smoke note generally is warm, rich, woody, and earthy. It is emotionally evocative, bringing to mind smells such as those of a mountain campfire, a burning cigarette in cold air, driftwood bonfires, burning autumn leaves, barbecued meat, incense or wax candles, an oil lantern, burned love letters, or burned sugar.


There are two main ways of creating a smoke tone. The first is to use integrated ingredients that together produce a smoky nuance to the nose, and the second is to use actual smoked raw materials. The latter method involves 'destructive distillation' of wood or other organic materials, converting them to charcoal through slow burning. Destructive distillation involves heating unprocessed raw material to a high temperature in the absence or very limited presence of oxygen and other reagents or catalysts such as steam or phenols. The process breaks up or 'cracks' large molecules and is sometimes followed by polymerizing or condensing the resultant smaller molecules back into heat-stable larger ones.


Vetiver, guaiacwood, birch tar, and cade (juniper tar) are natural ingredients that have a somewhat smoky facet. Cade, sometimes described as smelling like 'grilled leather,' is created by distillation of the burned heartwood of a Mediterranean juniper tree (J. oxycedrus) and has an intense smoky smell like that of a campfire. Vetiver has a slight woody facet that is less raw and dry than others. Birch tar comes from burned and dry-distilled birch wood and leaf buds, evokes the warm olfactory sense of a wood fire, and has a gentler smoke tone. Other natural ingredients that are sometimes smoked to produce new tones include sandalwood, cedar, oud, and patchouli, as well as resins and balsams. Vanilla can be smoked to give it a smooth liquor nuance, and smoked tobacco offers a warm, sensual, honeyed facet.


Incense scents also can have a smoky effect. Other options for adding smoke nuances include frankincense, lapsang souchong tea, resins (styrax, labdanum, opoponax), and animalic notes like castoreum. Less common ones include choya loban (made from burned olibanum wood), choya ral (from burned Indian Shorea robusta trees) or choya nakh (from burned seashells).


Synthetics can also be used to produce a smoke essence. Commonly used ones are isobutyl quinoline and guaiacol (one of the products of destructive distillation of woods and of actual smoke itself). Guaiacol smells like 'clean' smoke with phenolic and clove-like notes. The synthetic smoke scents frequently are used in combination with the natural smoke substances and with other notes such as hay or tobacco.

Smoke is tenacious and is usually is used as a base note, highlighting other scents. It also acts as a fixative for other notes. Smoke can be used with almost any accord, but it blends especially well with coniferous woods, incense woods, vanilla, amber, spices, and strong florals. It lends substance to florals such as rose, keeping them from becoming too cloying. Smoke also blends nicely with benzoin, sandalwood, rosemary, black currant, bergamot, pineapple, and lemon verbena. It is sometimes used in gourmand creations, adding balance to notes such as honey, vanilla, and honeydew melon. It often is included in very small amounts to add a masculine edge to otherwise feminine or genderless Orientals. Smoke works well with oud too, rounding it out and giving it fullness.

The scent of smoke is multifaceted and complex, made up of both pleasant and unpleasant qualities. Smoke can be subtle or pungent, and the key to the use of smoke scent seems to be in getting the balance right. Too much of it triggers an instinctual subconscious warning alert; when used sparingly, it adds richness, character, mystery, and depth. When used right, it evokes our common ancestral memories, able to create a sense of nostalgia. Smoke notes can be included in perfume products for any season, but most often they are recommended for autumn and winter. Smoke in perfumery is polarizing, with many proponents but just as many critics. In recent years, it has become a more popular ingredient.


There are few perfume compositions with a dominant smoke facet, but some masculine compositions with a distinct smoke note include:

Abdul Karim Al Faransi Dehn al Oud Cambodi, AKAF Mukhallat al Farisi, AKAF Oud Borneo, AKAF Wild Oud Cambodi
Afnan Supremacy Incense
Alexandria Aromatic Conflict
Al Haramain Khulasat al Oudh
Amouage Interlude, Amouage Memoir, Amouage Overture
Armaf Club de Nuit Intense
Armani Stronger with You
l'Artisan Tea for Two
Avon Blend 7
Beaufort London Vi et Armis
Bentley Intense
Beverly Hills Polo Club Sport 8
Bvlgari BLV
Burberry Mr. Burberry
By Killian Incense Oud
Calvin Klein Eternity Flame
Chanel Bleu de Chanel, Chanel Sycomore
Chatillon Lux Admiral
Christian Dior Fahrenheit, CD Leather Oud, CD Sauvage
Clive Christian V for Men Amber Fougere with Smoky Vetiver
Comme des Garcons 2 Man, CdG Black
Creed Aventus
Cremo Leather & Oud
DS & Durga Bowmakers
Dua King's Precious Oud
EastWest GI Joe
Ermenegildo Zegna Strength
Floris Vert Fougere
Frederic Malle Monsieur
Guerlain l'Homme Ideal l'Intense, Guerlain l'Instant de Guerlain, Guerlain Santal Royal
Heritage Berbere HB Homme 08
Hugo Boss Bottled
Issey Miyake l'Eau Super Majeure
Juicy Couture Dirty English
Knize Ten
Lalique Encre Noire
Le Labo Patchouli 24
Maison Margiela Replica By the Fireplace
MetaScent Outlaw
Michael Kors Gorgeous
MiN New York Moon Dust
Mizensir Perfect Oud
Molinard Habanita
Motley Palo Santo
Naomi Goodsir Bois d'Ascese
Nilafar du Nil Trajan
Paco Rabanne Phantom, PR Phantom Legion
Penhaligon's Portraits The Blazing Mister Sam
Pink Mahogany French Cuffs
Poesie Northmen
Puma Shake the Night
Santa Maria Nostalgia
Starck Peau de Pierre
Swedoft Bohemian
Tauer Lonestar Memories
Thierry Mugler Aura
Tiziana Terenzi Laudano Nero
Valentino Uomo
Versace Eros Flame
Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb
Vince Camuto Smoked Oud

Count me among the proponents of smoke. Thank you for another excellent post John.