Fragrance Terms

Thanks for your kind words. I have used lavender water and rose water, which I think are probably quite similar to eau fraîche, but as I have been aging and losing my sense of smell the last few years, they have become too weak in scent for me.

... I think are probably quite similar to eau fraîche

Not exactly.

In distillation, two phases are separated:
• oily, with essential oils
• aqueous, with phytotherapy functional
From the point of view of the fragrance, the hydrolates retain few notes.
But they are much more volatile and therefore poorly lasting.
The concentration of essential oils is almost zero.
In fact they are suitable for people with light allergies.

Aftershaves

The two main ingredients in most aftershaves are alcohol and witch hazel, both acting as antiseptics and astringents. Alcohol tightens the skin and closes pores so that bacteria can't invade. Witch hazel also has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Unlike alcohol, which dries the skin and damages its natural barrier function, witch hazel is a moisturizer. It improves skin hydration, elasticity, and softness. The alcohol used can be ethanol or methanol. Aftershaves with alcohol tend to have a stronger scent.

Roman barbers, whose trade was developed when Roman legionaries became the first soldiers required to be clean-shaven and short-haired, were said to apply a plaster made from materials including spider web soaked in vinegar and oil and perfumed with lavender. This mix was thought to have some antiseptic, healing, and moisturizing qualities. Actual aftershave liquids were introduced initially in the 18th century by barbers, who used their high alcohol content (the only known effective antiseptic then) to kill bacteria and decrease the transmission of disease from one client to another by shaving instruments that frequently caused nicks and cuts. Being clean-shaven became fashionable and beards became much less common at that time, but many men did not have the tools for shaving themselves and relied on going to the barber for beard removal. Early aftershaves also sometimes contained witch hazel and bay rum. Subsequently aftershaves became popular because of the tingling and revitalizing effect caused by the alcohol and fragrance together. Some speculate that the first commercial men's aftershaves simply represented a new use of women's cosmetic beauty washes, pastes, and 'washballs' for the skin.


As new, sharper types of steel razor appeared and made shaving more efficient and comfortable, perfumers and hairdressers also saw a new market for their products. The perfumer Charles Lillie advertised in 1744 a 'Persian (or Naples) soap' that he claimed was soothing following a shave, and others like 'Paris Pearl Water' were said to freshen and brighten men's skin. In 1752, a J. Emon advertised a powder that he said was 'good for tender faces' after shaves; and in 1801, Elenora's Lavo Cream was claimed to be 'particularly agreeable to Gentlemen after shaving, as it cools and heals the remaining heats.' Jean-Jacques Perret, credited with inventing the first guard razor in 1762, also wrote a book titled "The Art of Learning to Shave Oneself,' in which he touted the use of post-shave colognes. By the 1850s Victorian age, a large number of aftershave lotions and scents were available, including the widely advertised Rowlands' Kalydor, which was 'found greatly refreshing to the complexion, dispelling the cloud of languor and relaxation, allaying all irritability and heat, and immediately affording the pleasing sensation attendant on restored elasticity and healthful state of the skin.'


In the 19th century manufacturers began to use claims of aftershave efficacy based on scientific knowledge, in line with the increasing public interest in science. For example, Louis Pasteur discovered disease-causing germs in 1822 and found that alcohol killed them, which stimulated its use in aftershaves. Listerine, now popular as a mouthwash, was first marketed as an aftershave, 'because Listerine used full strength is a deadly enemy of germs.' In the 1830s, the perfumer Edouard Pinaud was contracted by the Hungarian Cavalry to develop a product to combat men's skin infections from shaving in the field, and he came up with Lilac Vegetal, which was used both as an aftershave and as a body splash between baths. Shortly thereafter, Napoleon II gave Pinaud the title of Royale Parfumeur, and aftershaves soon became very popular throughout European society. Other ingredients gradually were added to aftershaves in the 19th century, including glycerin. Unfortunately, some of them at that time also included poisonous potassium cyanide.
 

Before the mid-20th century, commercial men's fragrances for shaving mostly were limited to typical barbershop aftershaves such as Bay Rum and Florida Water. But with World War II experiences, men came home more accustomed to using products that kept them clean-shaven and fresh-smelling, and by the 1950s such products as Aqua Velva, Seaforth!, Old Spice, and Canoe had become quite popular. With the launch of the top-selling Revlon scent 'Charlie' in 1973, American fragrances in general became more 'sporty' and less dependent upon emulating traditional European perfumes, and the associated aftershave market exploded.
 

An aftershave provides a soothing finish to a shave. For normal skin, a liquid aftershave (splash or lotion) generally works well.  For oily skin, gel or a liquid with a moisturizer will help. If the skin is dry or winter air is dry and cold, a balm with a moisturizer is probably the best choice. Unlike cologne, which mostly is applied at pulse points, an aftershave is used on any shaved area. Before the aftershave, rinsing the face first with cold water removes residual lather and hairs, closes pores, tones the skin, and makes it less vulnerable to potentially harmful product additives. Wiping with witch hazel removes any further residue left behind by the water. Skin is then lightly dried and the aftershave is applied, spreading it around evenly and massaging gently to generate mild heat that aids absorption. Some experts recommend letting a little of the alcohol in a splash or lotion evaporate on the palms for around 5 seconds first to decrease its burning and drying effects.

The most common forms of aftershave are the liquid splash, lotion, balm, and gel. There is some overlap of these, of course, and various marketing strategies also confuse their distinctions.

Splash
This is an antiseptic liquid product. Most splashes contain alcohol, some up to 70% by volume, which helps to kill bacteria. They often also contain skin-conditioning allantoin and glycerin, as well as scents. They are designed generally to refresh and invigorated the skin, as well as reducing inflammation. They are not as suitable for sensitive or dry skin as other forms, and their skin tightening effect may promote ingrown hair. There are unscented and/or alcohol-free alternatives now available. Dermatologists now are more frequently recommending against use of splash aftershaves because the alcohol's antiseptic property is not needed as much as in the past and because its drying effect removes the natural oils that provide a barrier against skin wear and aging.

Lotion
Lotions are 'milder' versions of their corresponding splashes, with less alcohol and less drying effect. They are combinations of water, mineral oils, glycerin, myristyl propionate, aluminum starch, and fragrances. They are intended to primarily both refresh skin and prevent dryness, although many maintain some antiseptic qualities. Lotions typically have higher viscosity than their splash counterparts, but this varies. Most have scents that are more subtle than those of the splashes. Lotions are most often massaged into the skin with the hands but can be applied with pads or cotton balls. The glycerin in lotions sometimes can worsen acne. Although they are sometimes preferred by those with sensitive skin, lotions overall are the least popular type of aftershave.

Balm
Balms usually do not contain alcohol, since their focus is primarily to moisturize and nourish the skin rather than act as an astringent. Most are composed mainly of glycerin, aloe vera, and allantoin. They sometimes use other natural substances such as tea tree oil to give a tingling and cleansing effect somewhat similar to that of alcohol. Many of them contain carrier oils such as coconut, jojoba, soy, avocado, and castor oil, at concentrations intended to mimic the natural sebum from sebaceous glands and to be absorbed within a few minutes rather than leaving the skin feeling oily. Some balms contain witch hazel for astringent and toning properties. The viscosity of balms can be equivalent to that of lotions, but they usually are thicker and creamy or even a paste or semi-solid. Balms are especially popular with those who do not want to 'feel the burn' and those with skin that is sensitive and prone to razor burn/irritation or that tends to be very dry. Balms generally are lighter in scent intensity and longevity than the other forms. Some have cooling agents to provide more razor burn relief. Balms are applied like lotions, but they are absorbed more slowly.

Gel
Gels provide coolness and moisture to delicate skin, with faster absorption than other aftershave forms. They seem to perform best in humid climates. Gels are the most soothing for aftershave soreness. Some contain added antibacterial compounds.


Common aftershave ingredients:

-water
-alcohol(s): antiseptic, astringent
-witch hazel: antiseptic, astringent, toner
-stearate/citrate: antiseptic, sometimes as alternative to alcohol
-allantoin: anti-inflammatory; conditions, moisturizes, protects, enhances loss of dead skin cells
-glycerin or glycerol: smooths, lubricates, hydrates
-propylene glycol (1,2-propanediol): moisturizes, conditions, prevents moisture loss; solvent, decreases product viscosity
-isopropyl myristate: conditions, cleanses; stabilizes products, increases viscosity, prevents caking
-myristyl proprionate: conditions; slows product deterioration
-lanolin: moisturizes, lubricates, softens
-dipropylene glycol: maintains solution, decreases viscosity
-glyceryl stearate: lubricates, decreases moisture loss; emulsifies
-carbomer: distributes solids, prevents emulsion separation
-mineral oil: moisturizes, softens, conditions, provides soft feel; stabilizes scent
-acetate: promotes healing, sunscreen
-phthalate: moisturizes
-aluminum starch: prevents product caking
-menthol: cools, numbs irritated skin
-coloring
-fragrances, including some unnamed
-oils/botanical ingredients (including vitamins such as Vitamin E, aloe vera, shea butter, kokum butter, chamomile, grapefruit seed extract, lavender): hydrating, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial or antifungal, calming and soothing, wound healing, skin protecting

thank you I read all of these. I found this thread via google, nice informations. Perfumes are my hobby for last 5 years.

Do you know some articles or books, with detailed odor families/classifications
and descriptions like musty, pine like, balsamic, warm, earthy ,sharp ...etc

thank you I read all of these. I found this thread via google, nice informations. Perfumes are my hobby for last 5 years.

Do you know some articles or books, with detailed odor families/classifications
and descriptions like musty, pine like, balsamic, warm, earthy ,sharp ...etc

Thanks. No, I don't know of specific articles or books with that information. My posts have information that I found by searching the internet. You might check on fragrantica.com or basenotes.net to see if there are posts there about sources.

Ambergris/Ambrox/Ambroxan

Ambergris ('ambergrease') is a solid, waxy substance at one time thought to come from an unknown creature believed, according to a 1696 letter published by the Royal Society of London, "to swarm as bees, on the seashore, or in the sea." Some at the time thought it was a product of underwater volcanos or the droppings of seabirds. Marco Polo knew that Oriental sailors hunted the sperm whale for ambergris, but he thought that the whales swallowed it with their food. It is known now that ambergris is produced as a fatty bile duct secretion of the digestive system of some species of sperm whales (especially Physeter macrocephalus or P. catodon). It appears that only a small percentage of the whales, and perhaps only the male whales, produce it. Ambergris can be found floating on the sea surface or washed up on coastal shores, most commonly in the southern hemisphere, and it sometimes is found in the abdomens of dead whales. The name comes from the Latin ambra grisea or Old French 'ambre gris,' meaning grey amber (to differentiate it from ambre jaune, the yellow vegetal resin now just called amber).


Because the horny beaks of giants squids have been discovered within lumps of ambergris, scientists have theorized that the substance is produced to ease the passage of hard, sharp, irritant objects that the whale has eaten. There is some uncertainty and controversy about how ambergris is expelled from the whale, and no one has witnessed it. Previously it was assumed that the whales simply vomited it, but the current predominant idea is that it is primarily passed in fecal matter, but with masses that are too large to be passed through the intestines expelled instead through the mouth. It is not known exactly how it is formed or whether the process is normal or pathological. In Moby Dick (1851), Herman Melville notes the irony that "fine ladies and gentlemen should regale themselves with an essence found in the inglorious bowels of a sick whale."

Ambergris is found in lumps of various shapes and sizes, usually weighing from 15g (1/2 oz.) to 50kg (110 lbs.). One chunk found in the Dutch East Indies weighed 635kg (about 1400 lbs.). Initially black, soft, and viscous, with a strong fecal odor, it gradually hardens following months to years of aging and photodegradation and develops a light grey or yellow color and a more crusty/waxy texture (described as being like clay). With further oxidation in the ocean, a white coating forms and thickens over time. Aged ambergris has a subtle, sweet, and animalic scent, which has been described as a richer and smoother version of isopropranol. It is soluble in volatile and fixed oils. When raw ambergris is heated in alcohol and then cooled, it produces white crystals of the triterpene alcohol ambrein. When oxidized, ambrein breaks down to ambroxide and ambrinol, the main scent components.


Ambergris seems to require years to form. It can float for years before making landfall. It is found primarily in the south Atlantic Ocean and on the coasts of South Africa, Madagascar, the East Indies, the Maldives, Brazil, China, Japan, India, Australia, and the Molucca Islands. Most commercially collected ambergris comes from the ocean around the Bahamas. Dogs are attracted to the smell of ambergris and have been used to find it by commercial searchers. Fossilized ambergris dated to 1.75 million years ago has been found.

Freshly produced ambergris has a marine, fecal odor. As sperm whale expert Hal Whitehead of Dalhousie University in Halifax, Nova Scotia, says, "It smells more like the back end than the front." As it ages, the smell grdually transforms into a sweet, earthy scent. Says ambergris broker Bernard Perrin, "It ages like fine wine." In perfumery, ambergris was commonly ground into a powder and dissolved in dilute alcohol. Its perfume fragrance is often described as velvety but crisp, warm, marine, sweet, earthy, and animalic, and it sometimes is termed woody, voluptuous, or having a salty seaweed, caramel, or cured tobacco leaf aspect. Ambergris is widely used in accords with florals, woods, and musks and other animalic notes to add an opulent, seductive quality. Much as salt enhances flavors, ambergris seems to enrich other scents. Its most unique aspect has been said to be its radiance and tenacity. Although the scent itself is not heavy or overwhelming, it has greater sillage than nearly all other perfume components. As a large, heavy, lipophilic molecule with an affinity for other perfume molecules, ambergris also has fixative and stabilizing properties and probably was used for that purpose initially rather than for its scent.


Perfumers consider ambergris to have three main quality categories:
White/Grey Ambergris - This has been in the ocean for the longest time (usually 20-30 years or more) and mainly occurs in smaller pieces due to weathering. Ideally it has a whitish or partly white coating from air/salt water oxidation and a light interior color. Very old pieces can be brittle and powdery. The fragrance has at least some sweetness and is light and subtle. This is the highest quality.
Standard Ambergris - This is normally colored brown/grey or ash, layering can be seen, and pieces can be larger. The fragrance, while still pleasant, is somewhat too strong.
Low Quality Ambergris - This often is black and usually is still soft and pliable. The scent is quite rough, heavy, animalic, and/or fecal (sometimes described as being like that of an uncleaned stable).


Complicating the use and perception of ambergris is the fact that due to the complexity of its fragrance and variations in people's olfactory senses, individuals may have quite differing experiences of the scent, similar to reactions to other animalic aromas such as musk. While a particular sample might have an earthy, mossy, agreeable smell to one person, to another it might simply have the neutral or disagreeable odor of freshly turned soil or even compost.

Ambergris also has been used for centuries in food and drink. It has been added to foods as a spice: eggs with ambergris reportedly was a favorite of King Charles II of England. It was used as a flavoring agent in Turkish coffee and in hot chocolate in 18th century Europe. A recipe in the English and Australian Cookery Book from the mid-19th century called for ambergris to be added to rum, almonds and spices to make Rum Shrub liqueur.

Ancient Chinese and Egyptians burned ambergris as incense, while in modern Egypt it still is used for scenting cigarettes. During the Black Death in 14th century Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could help to prevent infection. And during the Middle Ages, Europeans used it as a medication for headaches, colds, epilepsy, and other ailments. Middle Eastern populations have powdered and ingested it to increase strength and combat heart and brain disorders, and some cultures have considered it an aphrodisiac.

Because of declining whale populations, the International Whaling Commission instituted a ban on commercial whaling in 1982. Although ambergris is no longer harvested legally from the animals, many countries also prohibit its trade as a component of the more general ban. For example, Australia bans commercial export and import of ambergris under its Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act of 1999. Importation of marine mammal products has been banned in the U.S. since 1972, according to the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna (CITES); however, ambergris is not mentioned specifically by name. It is actually considered by some to be a waste product, not a physical part or direct derivative of the species and therefore not covered by the provisions of the Convention. Since natural ambergris is extremely rare and valuable, illegal harvesting of whales for it continues in some areas of the world.

The cost, rarity, and legal ambiguity involved with ambergris use has led most perfumers to search for viable, sustainable synthetic alternatives. Ambroxan (Kao), a synthesize form of ambroxide first developed in 1950, is now produced commercially and used extensively in the perfume industry. It is synthesized from sclareol, a component of the essential oil of clary sage. Sclareol is oxidatively degraded to a lactone, which is hydrogenated to a diol and then dehydrated to form ambroxide. The plants make sclareol only in small amounts, and it is very labor-intensive to extract and purify it. But researchers have isolated the DNA which produces two enzymes that create sclareol in the plant and have inserted it into E. coli bacteria to produce large amounts of sclareol cost effectively. University of British Columbia scientists developed a similar process for the balsam fir tree. They transferred part of the tree genome that produces the scent compound cis-abienol into yeast, which can be used to make large quantities of it much like the yeast is used to make malaria medication ingredients. Cetalox is a similar commercial synthetic that is sometimes employed, and the related chemical compounds ambreine, grisalva, Ambrox (from balsam fir, Firmenich), and Ambrofix (Givaudan) also are used. True ambergris is an ingredient very rarely in American perfumes now but can still be found in a few, especially those from before 1980; and it still is used in some Middle Eastern and European (primarily French) products, because not all of its scent qualities have been synthesized commercially, and the synthetics do not completely mimic the natural form. The sperm whale population is slowly recovering from its near extinction in the late 19th century, so it is possible that natural ambergris will once again become more commonly found and utilized legally.

'Masculine' perfume products with significant ambergris include the following:

Abercrombie & Fitch Batch No. 46
Acqua di Parma Colonia Ambra
Aquaflor Firenze Azar
Axe Provocation
Beverly Hills Polo Club Sport 9
Burberry Mr. Burberry Element
Creed Aventus, Green Irish Tweed, Acier Aluminium
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue Swimming in Lipari
Francois Deli Fumee Toxique
I Profumi di Firenze l'Uomo di Pitti
Karen Low Pure Blanc
Louis Armand Ultimate Drive, Alter Ego Espirit
Miraculum Red
Penhaligon's Mr. Harrod
Thera Cosmieticos Serifos
TianDe Joss
Yanbal Arom Absolute
Yves St. Laurent l'Homme
Zara Aromatic Future

Very interesting info, John. Thanks for sharing.

Ahhhhhh, ambergris. A love I've had thanks to Creed's Original Santal. I finally found an excuse to use it.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Vetiver

Vetiver (Chrysopogon zizanioides) is a long, tropical, fast-growing, perennial bunchgrass that is native to India but is also grown now in Haiti, Indonesia, and China, and in lower quantities in Java, Japan, the Philippines, Brazil, El Salvador, Angola, and the French Indian Ocean island of Réunion. It is most closely related to sorghum but shares morphological characteristics with lemongrass, citronella, and palmarosa. Its structure make it drought-, frost- and wildfire-resistant and allow it to survive heavy grazing pressure. Its name is derived from the Tamil word vettiveru, meaning 'root that is dug up.' In India its Hindi name is khus or khas. In the United States the cultivar is named Sunshine after the town in Louisiana where it was first grown.


Vetiver processing was introduced to Haiti in the 1940s by Lucien Ganot. In 1958, Franck Léger established a commercial production on the grounds of his father's alcohol distillery there, and in 1984 the business was taken over and expanded greatly by Franck's son Pierre, making it the largest producer in the world. The Haitian operation owned by the Boucard family is another major one.


For perfumery, vetiver essential oil (frequently named with the French spelling, vetyver) is primarily steam-distilled from the web-like roots, although in El Salvador hydrodiffusion is used instead. About 80% of the world's total oil comes now from Haiti. The oil is viscous and ranges in color from dark brown to amber. It takes 200-250kg of vetiver roots, primarily from 18- to 24-month-old plants, to produce 1kg of the oil.


After the distillate separates into essential oil and hydrosol, the oil is skimmed off and allowed to age for a few months to allow undesirable notes to dissipate. Like patchouli and sandalwood oils, vetiver oil's odor evolves and improves with aging, becoming more ambery and balsamic. Turbulent tropical weather and destabilizing geopolitical influences in its growing regions add to sourcing difficulties and vetiver oil's high cost.


The personal care industry uses around 250 tons of vetiver roots per year. Vetiver has a damp, woody earthiness that has made it a favorite perfume ingredient for centuries, and it is found prominently now in around 20% of all male fragrances, and it is present in about 40% of women's perfume compositions. 

In India, vetiver essential oil was an ingredient of ancient perfumes and was called the 'oil of tranquility.' It was a common ingredient of incense powders in India and Sri Lanka. A French vetiver plant was purchased by the new US government in 1803 and was planted in the Louisiana town of Sunshine; since then the US cultivar has been called 'Sunshine.' An artisan vetiver perfume called Kus Kus has been produced continuously in New Orleans since 1843. The perfume company Carven, however, claims to have produced the world's first truly commercial vetiver-based scent in 1957, but it was Guerlain's Vétiver in 1959 that gave the fragrance breakout status, and it became even more popular with Lanvin's version in 1964.

Paola Paganini, product development and innovation director at Acqua di Parma, explains vetiver's popularity, saying, "Its warm and luminous accents have always been used to convey a sense of timeless and discreet elegance. It has a less 'dry' effect than other woods such as cedar. On the other hand, though, it brings a smoky-earthy note in drydown." Adds British perfumer Roja Dove, "Vetiver is commonly associated with freshness in a scent, but what it is actually doing is bringing sophistication and depth to make them more universally enjoyable." The scent is also very persistent and has excellent fixative properties for other more volatile or delicate ingredients.

The note often is used as a main theme, sometimes by itself, and added to other scents it is used as a drydown accent. In that way it is a chief component in many old-time barbershop fragrance products. Vetiver is famous for blending beautifully with citrus materials, adding warmth and depth to their fresh accord, and it has been a prominent note in compositions with strong berry, chocolate, or ozone tones. It has been called a chameleon note, presenting as clean or dirty, sweet or bitter, depending upon what other ingredients are used with it. In its top, the terpenes (especially those in young roots freshly distilled) provide slightly green or resinous pine notes, but the greenness generally does not persist, and its frequent incorrect association with overall scent greenness probably stems from the fact that the original Carven perfume was packaged in a green box. Vetiver has an ambery smoky quality that is considered distinctly masculine and has been likened to incense and cigars. Dove says, "It really is the ultimate men's scent. Vetiver showcases a refined, natural elegance that represents the ultimate in how a man should smell."

Vetiver's complete profile is described as earthy, warm, sweet, peppery, and lemony, often compared to the distinct smell of uncut grass on a warm day, but the scents of vetivers from various parts of the world differ markedly from each other. The oil from Réunion and Haiti is said to be floral, clean, and ethereal, while the Javanese one is smoky and dusty. Réunion is generally considered by experts to produce the highest quality vetiver oil, called 'bourbon vetiver' because the location was originally called Bourbon Island, with the next most favorable being oil from Haiti and then that from Java. (However, Indians argue that their oil, obtained from wild-growing rather than cultivated vetiver and mainly consumed within the country, is superior.)

"Vetiver is an ingredient with a lot of complexities," says Emmanuelle Moeglin, founder of the Experimental Perfume Club. "The first impression is fresh and earthy before settling into a deep and warm woody note with smoky and nutty nuances." It is sometimes said by consumers to be reminiscent of pencil shavings or green grapefruit, with underlying notes like sweet violet and orris.

The first chemical analysis of vetiver oil was done in France on extracts from roots imported from Réunion. It has been found to have over 100 recognized components. Synthetic alternatives have been developed for a few of these, such as Firmenich 'Vetyrisia' and 'Vertofix' (cedryl methyl ketone). But because of the complex chemical composition, and despite improvement of analytical techniques, there is currently no overall synthetic substitute available for use in perfumery. Other woody natural notes like patchouli, cedar, and amyris are sometimes used to approximate vetiver's properties, with other ingredients such as grapefruit essential oil, veticol acetate, nootkatone (a natural compound found in Nootka Island cypress trees, as well as in vetiver's base), or methyl pamplemousse (from Givaudan) added at times to further boost or mimic vetiver's effect. Studies have been done on the parameters of vetiver distillation, including use of differing metals (such as traditional copper, which gives the oil a cumin and cedar effect), modification of distilling and fractionating equipment and techniques, and changes in pressure and duration. This has led to commercial modulation of some of the factors, especially with Javanese oil, which has produced new oil qualities such as increased sweetness and density of woodiness, added slightly sulphurous/matchstick tones, increased grapefruit zest, and lessening of unpleasant earthy, smoky, or potato peel aspects.

In addition to use in perfumery, vetiver has been used in creams and soaps for both scent and skin care; and with antiseptic and healing properties, it has been prescribed to treat acne and other skin ailments. Vetiver has been a staple of traditional medicine for centuries in South and Southeast Asia and West Africa, prominently in Ayurvedic medicine, used especially for its sedative, antioxidant, antibacterial, immunostimulant, and arterial/lymphatic tonic properties. It is often included in aromatherapy care, where the oil is thought to be a reassuring emotional stabilizer, dispelling hysteria, anger, and irritability, and allowing tranquility and increased concentration.

In areas of Mali and Senegal, vetiver roots and oil have been used to reduce bacterial and fungal growth in water storage jugs, and in India, woven vetiver root pads are used in evaporative coolers to counteract the fishy smell caused by algal and bacterial accumulation in the wood shavings of the coolers. Sometimes vetiver perfume or even pure attar is added to the cooler tanks to scent the air.

As khus syrup (made by adding the essence to sugar, water, and citric acid syrup), vetiver is used as a flavoring agent for foods such as ice creams and milkshakes, yogurt drinks, and mixed beverages, and as a dessert topping. Muslin sachets of vetiver roots are sometimes dropped into earthen pots containing an Indian household's stored drinking water in the hot summer months, lending a pleasant flavor and aroma to the water.


The finely strong and deep-growing root system of vetiver helps to protect soil against wind and water erosion, especially on stream banks, terraces, and rice paddies, as well as slowing water flow and increasing the amount of water absorbed by the soil, so it is frequently planted for erosion  prevention. Vetiver mulch is used widely in gardens to promote water infiltration and reduce evaporation, and as the mulch breaks down it adds nutrients to the soil. It also protects crop fields against pests and weeds, especially those of coffee, cocoa, and tea plantations, and the plant root's penetrating ability additionally loosens compacted soils. Vetiver has been planted to stabilize railway cuttings and embankments, including those of the Konkan railway in western India, in an attempt prevent damaging mudslides and rockfalls. One study has shown that the plant is capable of growing in fuel-contaminated soil and even cleaned the fuel from the soil nearly completely. Similarly, vetiver roots are tolerant of and absorb heavy metals.

Vetiver is sometimes used as feed for cattle, goats, sheep, and horses, although the nutritional values vary. Although the plant has no insect repellant properties, vetiver extracts are used to repel termites from buildings. It was used similarly by trader merchants to protect cloth products from insects while in transit, and small bundles of the roots are still placed near stored home linens to repel mites (including in French Provençal, where it has been combined traditionally with lavender). Vetiver grass is used as long-lasting roof thatch and in making mud bricks with low thermal conductivity for house construction. With its light purple flowers, it is used as an ornamental plant, and garlands of its grass are placed as adornment and offerings in Hindu temples, where its scented water is used in rituals. Finally, its fibrous qualities make it useful for crafts and in making ropes. In Indonesia, the roots are used in the production of floor mats; and in the Philippines and India, the roots are woven to make fans called 'sandal root fans.' Vetiver mats are typically hung in Indian doorways or windows and kept moist by spraying with water, so that the mats cool passing air and emit a fresh smell.

In a scientific effort to track where mosquitos live during dry seasons in sub-Saharan Africa, the insects have been tagged with strings soaked in vetiver oil and then released, after which they are tracked by dogs trained to detect the vetiver scent.

Some of the best-known masculine perfume products with significant vetiver include:

Acqua di Parma Colonia, various, esp. Ebano, Note di Colonia II
Abercrombie & Fitch Hempstead
Annick Goutal Vetiver
Aquaflor Firenze Empereur
Atelier Cologne Vetiver Fatal
Axes Vetiver Proximity
Bois 1920 Vetiver Ambrato
Bombay Perfumery Les Cayes
Borsalino Cologne Intense
Bourbon French Parfums Vetivert
Bvlgari pour Homme
Burberry Mr. Burberry
Byredo Bal d'Afrique
Carolina Herrera Vetiver Paradise
Cartier Vetiver Bleu
Carven Vetiver
Christian Dior Vetiver, Leather Oud, Eau Sauvage
Comme des Garcons Black, Series 4 Vettiveru
Coty Crossmen St. Andrews
Creed Original Vetiver
Czech & Speake Vetiver Vert
Dior Eau Sauvage
Diptyque Vetyverio
Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Vetiver
Dr. Vranjes Firenze Vetiver e Poivre
D.S. & Durga Cowboy Grass
Durance en Provence Zeste de Vetiver
E. Marinella Muscade
Ermenegildo Zegna Haitian Vetiver
Esika Eros
Florascent Vetyver
Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire
Givenchy Vetyver, Monsieur, Pi
Gucci pour Homme
Guerlain Vétiver, Homme l'Eau Boisse
Hermes Terre d'Hermes, Bel Ami Vetiver, Vetiver Tonka
Issey Miyake pour Homme
Jardin de France Imperieux Vetiver
Jo Malone Vetiver (discontinued)
Joseph Abboud Black Linen
Karl Lagerfeld Bois Vetiver
Lacoste Red Style in Play
Lalique Encre Noire
Le Labo Vetyver 46
Le Re Noir #116 Vetiver di Genova
L'Occitane Vétiver
Lubin Le Vetiver
Lui Niche Baron
Malin + Goetz Vetiver
Miller Harris Vetiver Insolent, Vetiver Bourbon
Mirato Malizia Uomo Vetyver
Montale Red Vetiver
MPF Arancia
Myrurgia Yacht Man Esencia
Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir
Nouveau Paris Perfume Dumann Azure
Oriflame Giordani Gold Notte Man
Ormonde Jayne Zizan
Parfums Berdoues Vetivera Herbacea
Prada Infusion de Vetiver
Provence Sante Vetiver
Roja Vetiver
Royall Lyme Bermuda Royall Vetiver
Santa Maria Novella Vetiver
Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental
Sigilli Athunis
Theodoros Kalotinis Mentor
Tom Ford Grey Vetiver
Une Nuit à Bali M. Vetiver
Vilhelm Smoke Show
Xerjoff Modoc
Yves Rocher Eau de Vetyver
Yves St. Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme
Zara Vetiver, Legend Iron, Scent #4, Sport 615

Skin Types and Fragrances

There has been much discussion about how fragrances smell differently on different people. The major factor is the skin type, i.e. dry, normal, and oily skin. (This classification does not take into account the issue of sensitivity of skin, another topic entirely.) The effect of skin type on fragrances is most notable with colognes and eaux de toilettes with flowery, citrusy, or fruity aromas because of their relatively light scents and high volatility.

The simplest differentiation is that between dry skin and oily skin. One can gauge the oiliness of the skin by feeling how hydrated it seems to the touch. The less dry it feels, the more oily it is likely to be.

Dry Skin

Most fair-skinned and light-haired people tend to have drier skin. Dry skin is characterized by tiny or nearly invisible pores, low elasticity, and roughness.


Fragrances tend to evaporate quickly on dry skin because there is little oil to which their molecules can adhere, as well as being absorbed below the surface more readily. To maximize scent longevity, it is best to moisturize dry skin with water and/or an unscented - or similarly scented - lotion, rubbed in well, before spraying on a fragrance. (In addition, staying away from shower scrubbing implements that remove beneficial oils helps. And frequent use of a high-quality body lotion or body butter, especially after bathing, will help to keep the skin moisturized and enable it to hold scents longer.) If using an unscented moisturizer, some have found it helpful to spray a little of the fragrance onto the moisturizer before it is applied to act as a sort of 'primer.' A small amount of petroleum jelly or shea butter can be applied to pulse points before the fragrance is added. It also helps sometimes to mix a fragrance with coconut oil or grapeseed oil before application. Reapplication of fragrance after a few hours often is needed. Another choice is to buy perfume oils rather than standard fragrance liquids, since oils are much less diluted, or to layer a scented oil with its matching or similar perfume fragrance. It is recommended that those with dry skin avoid rubbing their scented wrists together after spritzing of the fragrance to prevent 'weakening' of the scent.

Says perfume expert Don Donovan, "Dry skin needs bigger fragrances with a good solid base to hold up the fragrance and make it last. Orientals and chypres work well, as do spices and the heavier blooms like tuberose." Intoxicating, stronger, or heavier 'winter' type colognes with high oil concentrations seem to match dry skin well. Musky, spicy, and woody scents or those with very heady floral and aromatic notes such as patchouli and ambergris are ideal.

Fragrances recommended for dry skin include:
Aramis JHL
Bvlgari Aqua
Chanel Egoiste Platinum
Creed Green Irish Tweed
Czech & Speake Cuba, Vétiver Vert
Davidoff Good Life, Zino
Givenchy Blue Label
Gucci Envy
Guerlain l'Instant pour Homme
Hugo Boss Selection, In Motion
Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male
Kenzo pour Homme
Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan

Normal Skin

Normal skin is characterized by clear complexion and barely visible pores. Since normal skin has more oil content than dry skin, fragrances last longer.

Oily Skin

Those with darker hair generally have oilier skin with more natural moisture and larger pores. Oily skin might be considered the 'best' for fragrances, since scent molecules cling tightly to it and remain present longer. Abundant natural skin oils also appear to trigger reactions among the compounds in a fragrance, making the smell more intense. Those with dark hair and/or oily skin should use less fragrance as a rule.


Oily skin will hold top notes for longer periods and will also exaggerate certain elements such as sweet nuts or other very sweet notes, which then can be perceived as overwhelming. Fruit, especially citruses, can do very well on oily skin. Very light floral or orange scents are said to be ideal. Oily skin also complements musky fragrances well, the oil molecules bonding together to shape scent character and depth, but the musk smell will persist tenaciously, so only a little fragrance should be used. Says Donovan, "The general rule is that oily skin makes fragrances pop. [It] can turn a quite modest, discreet scent into a magnum opus. However, you have to be careful: certain elements can become too much and upset the balance of a perfume. I had a client who just loved a scent to pieces on the blotter, but on her skin it became syrupy."

It is recommended that those with oily skin moisturize normally but use a lighter lotion specifically created for their skin type. They should choose only one body area to apply a fragrance, as opposed to two or three areas; the neck or the wrists would seem to be ideal. And frequent re-application of fragrance should be avoided. Generally, people with oily skin seem to do best with 'summer' type colognes.

Recommended fragrances for those with oily skin include:
Czech & Speake Neroli, Oxford & Cambridge
Dior Homme Sport, Homme Intense, Homme Eau
Joop Nightflight
Kenneth Cole Black
Le Labo Bergamote 22
Malin & Goetz Lime Tonic
Oscar for Men
Prada Infusion d'Homme
Ralph Lauren Polo (various)
Terre d'Hermes Tres Fraiche
Trumper GFT
Versace pour Homme

Other Factors

One's body chemistry, temperature, oils, and bacterial presence play important roles in how a perfume is expressed on the skin (including the specific notes that emanate), as well as the duration of the scent. Perfume writers state that up to 30% of questions from their readers are about skin chemistry and its effects on fragrance. Among journalists and writers, the opinions often seem to fall into two very different groups: skin chemistry does not matter at all or skin chemistry determines everything. Perfumers generally believe fervently in chemistry influencing the way a fragrance evolves on the skin, and many insist on smelling their compositions on a number of different people before making decisions at various stages of fragrance development. However, states Donovan, "I have to say that, sadly, there has been no scientific investigation into this." Despite this, it appears to most that the top note is where differences are particularly noticeable, although the drydown also can be altered.

Perhaps the most important skin factors affecting a scent are the pH balance and the temperature. Skin acidity or alkalinity (variances in pH levels) differ from person to person and change with age, chemically affecting a fragrance's ingredients and how they smell in different ways. Normal healthy skin pH usually is slightly acidic at pH 4.4-5.5 (with neutral pH being 7), while alkaline skin has a pH at 7 or above. Medical conditions like eczema can cause skin alkalinity, as can external factors such as some bar soaps, while other types of skin ailments and diabetes can make the skin more acidic, with a lower pH. Skin becomes more alkaline with drying and with aging. There is controversy, but some writers claim that a perfume or cologne is expressed most fully on the skin when the pH is slight alkaline at 7.35-7.45, although perfume fragrances may develop more rapidly on acidic skin. Others believe that the 'ideal' pH for scent projection and longevity varies among individuals, further necessitating a trial and error approach to choosing fragrances despite the general rules. Donovan recommends use of a shower gel designed for sensitive skin, which will help to regulate and stabilize the pH. Interestingly, natural redheads are reported to have slightly more acidic skin than those with other hair colors.



Generally, a person with a higher basal body temperature will have warmer skin and fragrances will not last as long, although this is influenced also by the clothing worn and the ambient environment.

Another factor influencing the expression of a fragrance is the balance of hormones and fatty acids present in the skin, which varies greatly from one individual to another, as well as changing from day to day and with age. Variations in factors such as stress and anxiety also can have an effect through hormone changes. It is thought that the effect of hormones is partly due to their influence on populations of skin bacterial flora, in addition influencing the pH.

A person's lifestyle is a major overall factor, including diet, exercise, whether or not one smokes, whether or not an infection or inflammation is present, and the medications being taken (internally or applied externally, especially if the medications are used for prolonged periods). In ancient times, doctors would smell the wrists of their patients in order to determine their diet and their states of health. An individual with a balanced diet has a different basic body smell than someone with a more rigid diet; vegans and vegetarians smell different than people who eat a lot of meat or fish. People who eat spicy foods, including foods with sulfur such as garlic or onions, and curries with cumin, have a distinct strong smell that seeps through the pores and imparts an undertone to fragrances, sometimes for the better and sometimes for the worse. This is not due to a chemical reaction but rather just to the effect of layering a scent over a base of 'eau de garlic.' A low-fat diet will result in lower oil levels in the skin, and fragrances will tend not to last as long. Alcohol intake will also affect a fragrance, since it is secreted through the skin (along with sugars in the case of a hangover), increasing the loss of smaller, lighter scent molecules as well as affecting the pH and bacterial growth. Coffee can have an effect on fragrances, but this seems to be somewhat unpredictable. And generally, those who exercise frequently will notice that their fragrances do not last as long because increased body temperature causes more rapid dissipation.

(A simple experiment to demonstrate the effect of ingested foods is to drink an infusion of fenugreek seeds at bedtime and smell the arm in the morning, at which time a caramel or maple syrup scent should be perceived on the skin.)

Pheromones also seem to play a role in how fragrances smell on a particular individual, although scientific research is lacking and many aspects remain debatable. Pheromones are predominantly secreted on the neck, so fragrances applied in that area will be most affected.

One obvious factor in the interaction of body chemistry and fragrances is perspiration. When sweat mixes with a fragrance, there are thought to be chemical reactions, which vary with different ingredients, with brands of scent, and due to personal body chemistry. In general, 'summer' scents such as citrus and grasses mix well with and are amplified somewhat by sweat, taking on additional depth as the perspiration evaporates and the scent lingers. Examples of products that seem to do especially well with perspiraton are Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte, l'Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu, and Chanel Allure. In contrast, some ingredients such as blackcurrant leaf, musk, and woods are not affected well by sweat.

Influences that have been discussed but about which there is no scientific study at all are the blood type and the color tone of the skin. Lighter skin tends to have finer graining of pores, with less oily sebum secreted, so it is likely to project fragrances more 'loudly' and to lose them more quickly. It is said also that more darkly pigmented skin seems to project gourmand and vanillic scents especially well and loses lighter and greener scents relatively quickly, while less pigmented skin may in some way 'hold on' better to aromatic scents.

Although all fragrances are affected by these factors to varying degrees, it is thought that green, fruity, and citrusy compositions seem to be particularly sensitive to them. It seems that clean, dry skin shows less effect than damp skin or skin with added external factors such as dirt. Recently, techniques based on headspace analysis and solvent swabbing have been developed to monitor fragrance concentrations on and above the skin while they are in use, using relatively inert surfaces such as vitreous tile as controls, in an effort to quantitate perfume behavior changes and their underlying processes. So far there has been little evidence released, but there seem to be indications that chemical degradation reactions occur most readily in the underarm area, probably due to microbial catalysis. It may be possible in the future to elucidate these chemical reactions and design specific fragrance effects around them in order to enhance the overall experience for an individual.