(This post was last modified: 05-09-2023, 12:46 PM by RayClem.)
Marko is correct that many artisan soapmakers do not have the skill in perfumery to develop their own scents, but there are those who do.
While I do have some dupes in my collection, some are cheap, inferior fragrances made with fragrance chemicals rather than essential oils and absolutes. For example, the aroma of vanilla can be provided by soaking expensive Madagascar vanilla beans in a solution of water and alcohol. The aroma of ethyl vanillin, a synthetic fragrance is similar to vanilla, but since it is derived from petroleum, it is far less expensive. Ethyl vanillin smells simimlar to natural vanilla, the aroma is not nearly as complex.
Inexpensive soaps like Arko often contain fragrances such as Amyl Cinnamal , Citronellol , Geraniol , Hexyl Cinnamal, and Linalool. While each of these chemicals is found naturally, the versions used are usually derived synthetically. They can often trigger allergic reactions. I cannot use Arko for this reason, but have no idea which ingredient is triggering my reaction.
There are companies who purchase famous fragrances, analyze them using gas chromatography and then figure out how to produce a similar fragrance using inexpensive ingredients. They can be sold at a fraction of the cost of the original. A soapmaker can purchase the fragrances and add them to their soap formula to make them smell similar to the famous fragrance.
There are also those who will purchase a famous fragrance, analyze it with their own nose and then try to replicate that scent by mixing various fragrances. These are the fragrances that will generally be sold as "inspired by" fragrances. The quality of the fragrance will depend upon the skill of the perfumer, the sensitivity of the nose, and the quality of the fragrance ingredients used. Thus, they can range widely in quality.
Many soapmakers are good at developing soap formulations, but collaborate with skilled perfumers to develop scents. Because the ingredient used to product soaps have a scent of their own, just adding a pre-made scent to a soap formula will not necessarily provide a great aroma. That is why collaboration is needed between the perfumer and soap maker. The perfumer will adjust the scent to accommodate the scent of the soap.
Then there are those artisans who develop their own fragrances. Again, they can vary widely in quality. Depending on the skill and preferences on the artisan, you might or might not like the fragrances. For example, I like the Barrister and Mann Omnibus soap formulation, but I am not a fan of Will's scents, but there are exceptions like Passiflora that Will describes as an elegant, sophisticated, spicy fougère. His description is fitting.
I have collected well over 200 shaving soaps over the past 10 year. Some of the fragrances were disgusting to my nose. Some were acceptable. Others were exquisite. Over time, my nose has learned to appreciate complex fragrances, well blended from high quality ingredients. I only add new soaps to my collection now if I am confident that the performance and the fragrance will both be outstanding.
