Thanks
MountainBear for the support and the comments...to answer your specific questions:
Quote:Some folks discussed washers on Carbon Shaving razors on another part of the form this weekend. I would like to know if they are intended for more than shipping and if there is a right size?
I include them to protect the underside of the base plate during shipping, some folks like to keep that protection after it arrives but they are not needed and serve no other function but to prevent scratching where the handle and base plate meet. The size of the ones we use have a 11mm Outside diameter(OD) and a 5mm Inside Diameter(ID). A nylon 10-32 UNF washer should work(maybe a M5 nylon washer?)...if you are in the US, Home Depot hardware, I think they carry the washers in store(look for nylon washers).
If you are looking for the perfect size,
AlanH81 custom makes his...but the thread on the cap is a ~4.6mm(.18") diameter and the handle diameter, where it meets the base plate is a ~8.1mm(.32"). The perfect washer would be 5mm(ID) x 8.2mm(OD).
Quote:Why is the SS shinier than the Ti in appearance or should I polish up my Ti with something? What?
316L polishes up very nicely, even compared to other grades of stainless, the addition of molybdenum, which is added to enhance its corrosion resistance brings out a very bright luster when polished. The other process we do to the 316L stainless(vs the Titanium) is we electropolish razor parts in addition to manually sanding, polishing and finishing the pieces. Electropolishing is the most effective way to polish threads with out impacting tolerances to any great degree, this process removes microscopic layer of the metal and brightens the metal a lot. Here is more detail on electropolishing:
https://fzemanufacturing.com/blog/electr...ssivation/
We tried electropolishing titanium, very specialized capability, but it does not change the brightness or the corrosion resistance to any greater, practical degree at all with Ti.
Depending on the state of your Ti you can absolutely polish her. Assuming you don't have any deep scratches or machine marks, I would suggest trying this product as a step #1:
Its mild, not too aggressive....it will take longer with Ti but it will remove fine scratches.
This stuff works good as a final polish:
Very mild but will add a nice shine...works great for copper or mokume.
If your scratches are deeper or you are talking about a particular surface on your Ti...happy to help if you share specifics. I am assuming you are doing this by hand. A Dremel or a buffing wheel can take care of the job quicker but you need to be careful on the critical dimensions and critical surfaces. We use tools from a 320 grit belt grinder to a super soft wheel on a Dremel at low speed....depending on what surface we are polishing.
Yes, you can absolutely get Ti to a bright polish, white pigment is made with titanium so it will have that appearance, 316L will be brighter and has that bright metalic finish.
Thanks for your other comments, I agree the markings are small, we don't have a lot of real estate to work with anymore on the web plates. One change we made with this new web version is we also laser
"engrave" the serial numbers, makers mark, year and plate level. Before we laser
"marked" the piece. While the laser engraving is less visible, it is much more durable and harder to be polished off unlike the older laser marking. We contemplated using a black nail polish to fill the engraving but it would not be permanent(we will look into that again). Regarding handles, fair feedback on the knurling, I also like the R2. I get a lot of positive feedback on how light the R3 is with carbon fiber though...awesome to hear your preference.
Thanks again
MountainBear...thanks for sharing the feedback! Keep me posted if you have more questions on your Ti...
Sean