Atelier DURDAN Vestige pass around

I've updated my review of the Vestige on the UK/EU pass around and done a comparison with the Sabre and Wolfman.

Razor has now gone to the next person.

Fedsbackhand Very similar if not mirrored thoughts to mine after using the WR3 on loan still more recently. Thanks for the well done and thorough review.

Thanks Dave. I wish I had measured the "near zero" gap before sending it on. Maybe someone else will.

I have had some unexpected commitments come up so will be sharing a more abbreviated set of notes on the last two shaves. After tomorrow's shave I plan to complete a more lengthy review:

Third shave with the Vestige and back with the + plate. My previous second shave with the ++ plate provided the efficiency I wanted, but there was some reduction in smoothness and comfort that accompanied it. A part of that was operator error not fully respecting the efficiency of that plate. Although, I did experience an excellent BBS outcome with high duration, and it was noticeably improved over the + plate.

So I returned to the + plate to consider if it would be sufficient, now having more experience with the razor. Overall, another effective shave occurred with a significant reduction in needed touch ups. The only negative was a noticeable reduction in effectiveness in the last strokes of the third pass. I could tell that the blade was not presenting with the same efficiency as the first shave. That makes me think that the + plate could be effective with a fresh blade but may not work so well in latter uses. But when inspecting the results, it was still a nice BBS outcome, and in fact improved over my first shave. But I am starting to detect a tiny amount of regrowth roughly 6 hours in, when compared to the ++ plate that was in the 11 hour range.

I now find myself at a bit of a crossroads with plate choices. The + plate offers smooth and effective shaves, but not quite at the BBS duration and efficiency I would normally seek. And the ++ plate certainly improved on that but resulted in a reduction in comfort. So I am going back to the ++ plate tomorrow with a fresh blade ( palm stropped ) and focus on a bit more care and less cavalier attitude. This razor is not aggressive at all, and encourages addressing the most difficult areas with a relaxed approach.

Working through the last major section of my initial analysis. This ended up longer than anticipated (as I am including some aspects of the brass and Ti versions) so may require another pass to edit it down in size.

One quick note though, I had a potential breakthrough on the ++ plate today using a combination of reduction in applied pressure, riding more of the cap, and holding the razor towards the very base of the handle. This allowed me to hit some new angles that delivered smooth but effective strokes, in some cases better than experienced with the + plate. However that sweet spot is fairly narrow, may incrementally reduce efficiency, and was not always intuitive. I am going to focus on the ++ plate for the remainder of my shaves with this technique to confirm if it was differentiated or possibly a function of using a fresh blade. Either way, I had a very nice experience with the ++ plate today. And the BBS outcome was excellent, although that has been the case in general.

Still here and still experiencing great shaves with the Vestige. I keep achieving wonderful BBS outcomes with the ++ plate. Although it is still requiring a bit of focus on the technique adjustments to achieve consistent results, but nothing that difficult at this stage. Right now I think I would have to go with the ++ as my primary plate. Tomorrow will be an interesting test to see how the GEM blade efficiency holds up with the ++ plate and shave 4 (with the same blade). I am also working up details on technique adjustments for the ++ plate that worked for me, and will include in my now basically complete final review. And lastly, I am going to see if I can get a few questions in with Augustin to fill out a bit more detail on the other variants.

I have shipping info for Marhos24 and plan to get the razor shipped out to him Friday.

Please remove me from the list. I'm number 6 - evahs

1- cornbread - NJ
2- Dave in KY KY
3- ALI - CT
4- rocket - CO
5- Marhos24 -MI
6- evahs -NY
7- ppshil -PA
8- ewk -SC
9- wyze0ne -MI
10- Freddiep318ti-VA

Thanks

cornbread Vestige and related kit is on its way to Marhos24 
Many thanks to you, DFS, and Augustin for the opportunity to enjoy the Vestige!

1- cornbread - NJ
2- Dave in KY KY
3- ALI - CT requested removal
4- rocket - CO
5- Marhos24 -MI
6- evahs -NY requested removal
7- ppshil -PA
8- ewk -SC
9- wyze0ne -MI
10- Freddiep318ti-VA

Vestige Evaluation Series
Final Review


PROLOGUE

This review departs somewhat from my normal style as a number of helpful reviews have already been provided. In particular, Dave in KY and Fedsbackhand both shared informative reviews that I would highly recommend taking a look at. So this review will focus on key razor attributes, considerations for shaving with the ++ plate, and general concluding thoughts on the Vestige.

AESTHETICS

Shortly before the public announcement of the Vestige, Augustin had shared a rendering of the razor. I was immediately intrigued by the design but the singular image brought additional questions, that were ultimately answered upon receiving a physical copy. As noted at the end of this review, I worked on a small creative project to develop product images for the Atelier DURDAN razor line. As part of that effort I was provided two versions of the Vestige to use for production of those images: one in polished titanium and the other in polished brass, along with its matching stand. So I have had a fair amount of time to consider the aesthetics and visual language of the razor’s design, prior to receiving the stainless steel pass around copy.

One of the most interesting visual aspects of the Vestige is how it presents from a side profile versus a head on view. The side profile of the razor head reveals angular design lines, terminating into the guard with an almost beak like feature. The whole head from this vantage point reminds me of an art deco inspired mechanical bird or possibly a helmet taken from an early Flash Gordon comic, especially when loaded with a blade. Yet when viewed head on the pronounced guard with its array of oval openings, combined with the handle’s sweeping curves and concentric conical shapes combine to yield a pleasing complement of design elements that feel balanced, refined, and underpinned by strength. I particularly enjoy how the guard design harkens back to the period of vintage GEM razors with ornate inscriptions, similar guards, and art deco handles.

The brass variant stands apart in my view, conjuring an air of nautical notes, from its bell shaped stand to the dominant conical base of the handle, that could seemingly be at home at the base of Poseidon’s trident. Although that is only my interpretation as Augustin had suggested that the handle was inspired by the retro elements of classic cars, when tail fins and rocket shaped indicator lights dominated the landscape.

Another aspect of the razor is exposure of the GEM blade spine. For some, the lack of complete encapsulation of the blade is polarizing. However I personally have no issue with the exposed blade spine and find the resulting look of the razor another differentiating point that sets it apart from many others. One of the key reasons I think the design works aesthetically is that the natural tones of a GEM blade merge relatively seamlessly with the TI and SS metals. However, I must admit that the exposed spine is more apparent in the brass variant, with their contrasting tones. But I would not allow that difference to prevent purchasing the brass model. What is more likely a challenge is preserving a pristine finish of brass metal.

When considering the landscape of in-production modern GEM razors, I find the Vestige to be the most visually pleasing, with intentional design choices that result in an evocative medley of the past and present.

HANDLING

With seven shaves completed on the SS pass around and a separate set of non-shaving interactions with the brass and Ti models, there seem to be a few important physical characteristics to consider: balance, weight, head size, and handle grip. Each of these in some way contribute to the handling experience of the razor.

Starting with razor balance there is the overall balance when held and operated and there is also balance of the razor when standing vertically at rest on a flat surface. While I have only shaved with the stainless steel variant I have enough time interacting with the titanium and brass variants to have some understanding of their balance. To inform this part of the review I am listing measured weights of the head and handle for each metal:

Metal                  Head (g)    Handle (g)    Total (g)

Brass                     15              53              68 (see note on potential discrepancy)
Stainless Steel     15              51              66
Titanium                  9              29              38

Ignoring the actual measured values for a moment, the Ti variant seemed most balanced in hand, but also the most difficult to balance vertically on its own, with no stand. This is followed by the brass variant, although technically it shouldn’t be on a pure head to handle weight ratio. I suspect the overall heft and density of brass creates a different perception.

What is also important to note is that the Brass head is measured at the same weight as stainless steel. But since brass has a different density it theoretically would have to have less material to be equivalent. And when viewed side by side it does appear the top cap depth is slightly less than the stainless steel version. I don’t want to assert too much here as I may have received a brass copy that was dimensionally acceptable for image making but may not be reflective of a final production version. So take my measured weight and relative balances with a grain and salt, and I imagine Augustin will be posting formal information on the company website. And finally, I found the stainless steel variant to present with a slight degree of bias towards the bottom portion of the handle, when fully assembled. I would not describe this as overt but it was perceptible. This may have also worked to its favor as it was relatively stable standing vertically.

The Stand

This leads me to the Vestige stand. I normally don’t acquire razor specific stands, as I tend to store my razors laying flat in drawer organizers, versus on display. But in this case, I believe the razor stand may be a helpful purchase. Given tipping potential from the smaller flat area of the handle base, the stand could be a wise choice both for display and during shaving. Alternatively, the razor can be rested horizontally or on its side. The stand itself is wonderfully designed with a satisfying self-stabilizing and centering function when inserted, given the conical nature of the handle base and stand opening. Even the lighter Ti razor was confidently held in place. The stand also provides a thoughtful small drain opening at its base. And unlike some conventional stands and holders, the Vestige stand visually integrates with the conical handle base in a nearly seamless transition. I enjoyed being able to easily drop the razor in the stand between passes or while I rinsed and cleaned the head assembly.

Assembly

Loading was straightforward and the blade seated easily. I typically hold the top cap in my palm with the outer posts facing towards me; place the blade on the top cap, aligned with the outer posts; and then add the bottom plate. With the head assembly complete comes alignment of the center post with the handle. What is different from most razors is the shape of the center post. It follows the same design as the Backland Sabre, and I believe a few other razors, where the post is a thinner rectangular shape to mate with the center opening of a GEM blade. The post also presents at an angle when not fully assembled. The combination of these factors may lead to initial challenges in threading the handle. But with a little practice it should become second nature.

I typical lying lay the head assembly in my palm so that the post is perpendicular (straight up vertically) and then gently guide the handle on to the first few threads. If any resistance is met I back off and repeat. I think the key is to not be misled by the post angle and keep it straight up and down during assembly. Overall, first attempt alignment with the Vestige seemed more repeatable than the Sabre, probably due to the reduced weight of the mating parts.

The only minor issue encountered was occasional difficulty in removing the blade. Presumably the tolerances are such that the blade is tightly seated once assembled. At times it required pulling each corner of the blade up slightly to free it from retention.

Handle  Grip

As noted by some, I also would prefer a modest increase in grip, primarily in the large expanse of smooth surface between the handle ends. That isn’t to say the handle felt difficult to control. But I did have a bit of concern grasping the handle when saturated with soapy remnants from a recent pass or rinse. However, I have now completed multiple shaves and don’t recall it being an issue in the later sessions. That may also be attributed to a shift in my hand hold, which I will highlight in the ++ plate discussion.

Agility

The combination of razor balance and weight delivers a high degree of agility. This is a differentiating point that continues to draw me in after several uses. Razor footprint can be deceiving. There are certainly larger head sizes that can be effectively maneuvered. But at this point I have become spoiled by the Vestige. The reduced footprint of its razor head encourages a relaxed and confident engagement of the most challenging beard terrain. Even in brass or stainless steel, the overall weight is still relatively moderate and begins to approach the Ti weight regime in some DE offerings. And if that is not sufficient, the Vestige is available in Ti at a svelte 38g. Initially I considered that weight to be a bit too light for my taste. But holding the Ti side by side with the stainless steel, and having multiple sessions with the SS variant, I am not so certain now. There is something appealing about the Ti when in hand.

PERFORMANCE

Plate (classic)

I chose not to evaluate the classic plate given other reviewer inputs, as well as my experience with the + plate. It would simply be too mild for my beard profile.

Plate (+)

I have been searching for some unique or differentiated points to share on the + plate, that haven’t already been covered by others. My simple summary is that the + plate provides a delightful level of smoothness and balanced efficiency that will likely be the optimal choice for many. I particularly enjoyed its ability to safely engage the mustache area with conventional passes and light buffing. A true indulgence would be to acquire this razor for that sole purpose. But that is not an option in my case.
I would want the + plate to cover all needs for a relatively high duration BBS outcome. While I could certainly achieve BBS with the + plate, it was on the lower end of duration and required modest touch up work during the shave session. That additional effort could lead to overshaving in a few key areas. Even with that, I still enjoyed the ease and safety the + plate offered, while still delivering a reasonable level of BBS.

Plate (++)

So it was time to summon forth the ++ plate. I always expected this plate would be visited, as is often the case with other multi plate offerings and my demanding beard profile. Given the length this review is at, I will bypass a play by play of the shaves and describe initial results.

The end result of the first shave with the ++ plate was an excellent degree of BBS accompanied by a fairly high duration. But it did come at a price of reduced comfort and smoothness, with noticeable feedback present in some areas. So given the result, I decided to revert to the + plate. The results were consistent but again not at the degree of efficiency I would normally prefer. Therefore, I returned to the ++ plate, but with a fresh blade and a new approach. This time I significantly backed off the pressure, more than I would with about any other razor. Part of this was likely related to most of my razors exhibiting moderate blade feel. The Vestige does not present in that way, and I may have been instinctively applying additional pressure to overcome the lack of feedback normally received from other razors.

I also re-positioned my hold to the base of the handle. This was in part to reinforce a lighter touch but also allow flexibility in riding more of the cap, which also was a focus of the new approach. The net result: An excellent outcome with significant improvement on comfort and smoothness. I did experience a small reduction in overall efficiency along with a more narrow range of optimal engagement. Maintaining a bias to riding the cap also presented challenges in certain stroke directions, particularly around the left side of the mustache area and a few other difficult to maneuver locations. But I was pleased with the results and experienced a net improvement on BBS duration over the + plate.

The remainder of the evaluation period shaves explored this approach and the ++ plate. While the approach was not completely intuitive in the beginning, it was becoming second nature towards the final shaves.

And in those last shaves I further refined the ++ plate approach by aligning the sloping face of the razor head with the plane of my face, when starting a stroke. This alignment would typically occur by allowing the weight of the razor head to find its natural resting point on the skin. This was a helpful starting position from which I would further adjust the angle from (further away or towards the cap), depending on the level of resistance a particular area presented. Initiation of the stroke would include carefully monitoring of audible feedback for indications of smooth, or not, engagement and making any necessary micro adjustments. In some cases the angle of attack would leave a slight trail of smeared residual lather and in others a complete clearing. I also noticed that the need to focus on the cap reduced as blade efficiency degraded. It is difficult to capture in writing but a sweet spot emerged from this approach, resulting in a fairly smooth and highly effective shave. One other point on the ++ plate is that I found this configuration low on aggression, presumably from the relatively modest gap.

CONCLUSION

On almost every dimension this razor has checked nearly every box for my personal consideration: unique and thoughtful design that is aesthetically distinctive, while not sacrificing core functionality; configurable with a choice in metals and efficiency options; designed and distributed by an artisan that strives to deliver a unique experience with their offerings; and positive shaving outcomes. This whole experience has also re-ignited my interest in the GEM format overall. And thanks to Dave in KY I will be exploring several vintage GEM razors. Interestingly the La Faulx also caused a similar regeneration of interest in the AC format. And while my GEM journey will continue, the Vestige is high on my list of likely to acquire. Even though the ++ plate would likely be my primary usage, I might have to pick up a + plate as well. There is something special about the + plate.


Disclosure:  I have previously worked with Atelier DURDAN on a small creative project to produce product images. This review was written independent of that project and the opinions expressed are my own.

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