Phoenix Shaving | John Frum
Kent V8
Gem Damaskeene (1914-1915) | Gem Jr. Elite "Ivory" Handle (ca. 1906)
Gem PTFE
Off the puck, John Frum's bold musk is quite reminiscent of PAA's Black Bot which is an homage to vintage Black Belt. This first blush is not to be trusted as the lather takes a very different path. When hit with a wet knot, John Frum opens surprisingly clean with rather forward suggestions of arid, salty, verbena with wafting notes of linen. Before this bright summery citrus peaks, the aforementioned musk steps in, but at very respectful levels and more refined than the punchy 70s musks. Meanwhile, the dry cotton and bitter lemon transition to an intriguing crushed green vegetation contrasted against sandy vetiver stopping just short of earthy. At this point, the shave is nearing its end, but the fragrance seems to have more to offer. This is precisely why I all but insist on matching splashes, but in the case of John Frum, it is absolutely essential to fully realize the intended fragrance. The splash restarts the bright sandy citrus, but it reveals a previously undetected slightly sweet aspect. The musk is omnipresent, yet still controlled, and even elegant. The green is greener, and the vetiver is less vetiver, but I don't know what else to call it. That interesting salty sand element persists as well. After about 15 minutes, a soft, naturally sweet and slightly powdery note slips in. This fragrance is a complex adventure with surprises, but very well blended. There's simply no contemplation necessary for me. John Frum is immediately a personal favorite, so I've already ordered the EdP.