#31

Posting Freak
Peachtree City, GA
(This post was last modified: 04-16-2020, 06:12 PM by DanLaw.)
Funny how so many things with Aji's design that would seem at first blush to be unappealing yet work so perfectly harmoniously together in practice. 

My predilection is to traditional handles in heavy SS and on the long end of the spectrum.  All Wolfman owned for example, have been ordered with extra long WRH2s - and LOVE them; had a critique of the BBS1, it would be the handle insufficiently long and too light heavy.  All that to state prefer a balance point to the distal end of the razor: decidedly and consistently.  BUT enter Aji and his completely novel approach to razors feeling head heavy, yet contrary to every prejudice and every established technique, they perform amazingly well - right there if not better than the custom razor had paid a premium to purchase and speced to my most specific requirements. 

It is one thing to make premium products using premium materials sold at premium prices and quite another to make premium products using premium materials to sell at middle market price points - that is a tough do, nearly impossible.  Aji deserves to make it as much for his brilliant designs as for the fact he delivers premium quality at an attainable price point: can promise he is sacrificing to do this.  There is not the margin people suspect in making quality products using US/Canadian labour and materials.  

The sole critique is wishing he would raise the prices so that he could make sufficient profit to assure he stays in business, continuing to develop innovative products - something I have never stated of another shaving hardware manufacturer.

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#32

Posting Freak
Peachtree City, GA
(This post was last modified: 04-16-2020, 05:28 PM by DanLaw.)
By the way, Grooming Dept has generously provided the soap for this passaround, thank you Mo!  It is indeed a perfect soap.

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#33

Member
Minneapolis-St. Paul
https://imgur.com/aaRXkZl

Meant to post this yesterday after my last shave with the P076 SB.  Another shave-off, this time with my copper CG Level 2 SB.  I was glad to have another shave with the GD Asisnus soap.  The soap has a light feel to it while still maintaining great slickness and post-shave qualities.

On Saturdays, I usually go with a 3-pass shave rather than my weekday 2-pass shaves. This time I noticed that the copper of the CG seemed to drag just a little when pulled across my face in comparison to the 17-4 SS.  It wasn't enough to cause any problems or lessen my enjoyment of the shave, but it was definitely noticeable.  The results were similar for several hours, but in the end I'd say that the P076 was slightly more efficient.

I've really enjoyed my turn with the P076 razors.  My personal preference was for the SB rather than the OC, but that's not unusual for me these days.  As far as the ultimate question - am I going to buy one?  My answer is - not yet, but maybe.  I think I can only buy only one high-end razor this year, so I want to try a few others before making a final decision about what is the best one for me.  But when the time comes, I expect that the SB will be in the running.

Thanks to Aji for the opportunity to try out these razors and to DanLaw for running the passaround.

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#34

Member
Indiana
Does Aji plan to sell only head without handle?
#35

Posting Freak
Peachtree City, GA
My understanding, from conversations is that he will only be selling complete discrete razors in either SB or OC variants. Am working on something though; hold tight.

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#36
[Image: Yh3uPOv.jpg]Arrived safely!  Can’t wait for a shave tomorrow.

Ara Tonoyan, Marcos, shaveSymptomatic and 5 others like this post
#37
I signed up for the Haircut & Shave P076 razor pass around without knowing much about the razor truth told. The
company, material, technological accomplishment, value – all of it was a complete mystery to me and unappreciated,
despite having interest and experience in a wide range of technologically oriented pursuits. Being a native Italian also
means design is an important element of all things; we view it as an integral part of our visual and tactile life
experience. Therefore, in many respects, this razor should appeal to me for a variety of rational and emotional
reasons.

Dan made a point of emphasizing what a breakthrough set of razors this is: being only the second 17-4 offering
available to the public, having intricate curvatures difficult to machine into 17-4 SS, possessing a thin stack height
maximizing the benefits of a super strong grade of SS, using knurling versus patterns despite being difficult to machine,
even having an open comb version which is almost impossible with this grade of stainless AND at a price point more
closely aligned with mid upper range 303SS razors. The technological and business planning elements required that
are unique to this razor were not lost on me. My initial thoughts were, that for the right market segment, this is a must
have razor that would be interesting to test. Another part of me was also reflecting on past razors I have owned or tried
over the years, causing me to reflect that it would also be important to convey to the public reading these reviews that
my beard growth is light and that I have a moustache and goatee which changes the shaving demands and challenges.
Razors are personal grooming tools needing to fit the unique particular task at hand in a way that provides both
efficiency and comfort for the individual.

Thanks to Haircut & Shave for providing these two unique preproduction razors for testing; it took courage to broadly
distribute razors that weren’t finished to a production level reflecting their confidence in the machining. My initial
impression was that these razors were beautifully manufactured and finished; if this is what the test batch looks like,
one can only imagine how stunning the public releases will be. If I had to characterize the looks of the razor, it would
be that they appear as any normal lesser grade of SS would appear; this is a major compliment bearing in mind just
how difficult the machining and polishing processes are for this metal. My research of the only other widely distributed
17-4 SS razor indicated that concessions made to the machining challenges included thick stack height and
simplistically patterned handle amongst others all absent in the Haircut & Shave razor. But even amongst the
machining marvels clearly present, the fact of the matter is that compromises to the metal still had to be undertaken, for
example, the knurling is a bit more aggressive than would be optimal compromising the tactile pleasure of using the
razor and the edges of the head assembly are a bit angular where rounded edges would provide more comfort. I really
liked the handle design; it is very artistic and reminds me of an Indian flute.

Shaving with the P076 was a unique experience. I had never tried a 17-4 SS razor before so it was a bit shocking just
how uniquely hard the metal felt against my skin. My first shave was with the Open Comb baseplate, which proved to
be way too aggressive for my light beard and skin type, even using a mild Timor blade. Thankfully, the Straight Bar
head is significantly less aggressive than the Open Comb; I was able to use my seemingly endless supply of Polsilver
blades to get outstanding smooth shaves. The handle is very comfortable to use encouraging a grip on the razor that
perfectly matches the balance point even though the knurling was a bit aggressive – certainly, this razor isn’t likely to
slip even using the super slick soaps being produced.

Two tubs of Grooming Dept soaps were included with the razors. I am a user of the donkey milk soap although my
preference is for the scented versions. The performance makes it one of my favorite soaps so no surprises there. The
other soap has been much ballyhooed by Dan: the new Nai vegan base Aion. I found the scent, easily, the BEST ever
encountered in any soap; it is amazing. Performance was unique and a step forward even by the standards of my
former favorite soap the Grooming Dept Mallard. It was a pleasure using this soap; I made it a point to take a
generous helping prior to passing the package on the next person.
In summary, found the razor a solid choice for those seeking a more aggressive razor; for people like me, the razor
performs well but could never be a daily shaver. The fit and finish are outstanding with so many unique elements that
many will want to purchase one just for those features. Understanding what this razor is makes the price point seem
very fair. It will be interesting to test the Haircut & Shave N075 razor with both baseplates; it is from the same
manufacturer but on the opposite end of the spectrum in every way.

Calm_Shaver, Captainjonny, CK89 and 2 others like this post
#38
(03-09-2020, 05:48 PM)DanLaw Wrote: Haircut & Shave is a company encountered on the various fora over the past year with increasing frequency and a growing reputation amongst cognoscenti for outstanding craftsmanship thanks to the vision of its founder Aji Sunjaya.  Prior to entering the shaving hardware business, Aji had been in the men’s grooming business for 19 years and has owned/operated a couple barbershops in Eastern Maryland for the past decade.  2018 marked the year he began work on his now famous N075 DE razor (originally produced from a hybrid of 303 Stainless Steel with Black Hardcote Al baseplate) eventually evolving into the N075 ALL Stainless Steel version possessing a user friendly combination of 0,75 blade gap and neutral blade exposure - appealing to a wide audience upon which his reputation was built.  The success of the original razor inspired Aji to consider a more efficient razor to keep pace with the trending desire among DE enthusiasts for closer shaves but his focus was on maintaining smoothness with the increased efficiency.  Thus, the P076 design concept was born, adding an ever so slight blade gap increase with slightly blade foreward presence to shave closer whilst yet retaining everyday smoothness/usability.  Further differentiating the new razor, Aji decided to pursue the harder and more difficult to machine 17-4 Stainless in BOTH straight bar and OPEN COMB design – yes, OC in a 17-4 razor!  Haircut & Shave is committed to a strategy of sustainable growth, increasing the company’s presence by adding products and services over time, positioning the company as a reliable full service provider for the wet shaving community both online and in person at his brick and mortar facility.
 
 
While finding the H&S N075 reviews intriguing, as much out of respect for the people touting the praises as the razor’s design, my interest was immediately piqued when learning of developmental work on razorS – emphasis on the “S” - produced in 17-4 stainless steel.  17-4 stainless steel is a rare metal in the razor manufacturing community prized for its hardness and have only ever encountered one other offering – from Paradigm.  There are reasonable arguments for 303, 304, 316 and 17-4 stainless steels ranging from ease of machining in the former thru increased hardness and corrosion resistance in 316 to the sheer hardness and beauty of 17-4 BUT generally, the materials present increasing challenges to production along with the positive traits.  Getting to the bottom of which stainless variant is best suited for razor production is no easy task and will not be addressed in this review.  Whilst not an engineer, have taken some coursework on both the  baccalaureate and post graduate level but even so armed, the lack of transparency regarding treatments and sourcing renders judgment difficult.  Suffice to state, as a general operating principle amongst razor producers (Rockwell excepted), there are fewer manufacturers of higher repute producing higher cost/better machined razors as one moves along the stainless steel spectrum starting with 303 to 304 to 316 and 17-4.
 
Packaging varies widely amongst the boutique manufacturers of high-end razors, likely reflecting the backgrounds and values of the people involved.  Everything from cardboard boxes to beautifully crafted niche market jewelry quality boxes have been encountered with absolutely no correlation to the manufacturing quality of the razor.  I am of mixed perspective in this regard having come from an industry dealing with machine shop craftsmen on a regular basis, receiving repurposed cardboard shipping boxes filled with thousands of dollars’ worth of carefully crafted parts.  In the particular case of H&S, the razors are nicely packaged in the tool & die and military contractor’s favourite, blow molded plastic case.  It is fitting that an artisan handcrafted razor manufacturer would utilize such a container given their familiarity with measuring instruments so protected in cases constructed of this material or wood.  Certainly, this is no insult to very highly regarded craftsmen providing outstanding razors and brushes of extraordinary quality and beauty delivered in cardboard boxes but it does elevate the game, suggesting that the manufacturer views the product as a precision instrument as opposed to a machined product.  Packaging does make a statement of self-image, immediately discernable subconsciously if not consciously.  Opening the case reveals beautifully cut and dense padding securing the razor and a possible alternative head assembly with slit for blades or other ancillaries.  A beautifully logoed microfiber cloth covers the razor, as is de rigeur these days for high-end razors.
 
The razors are striking visually, literally jumping out of the box and making love to the eyes!  Marveling at the damn near endlessly deep mirror polish, one cannot help concluding the finish is about as good as encountered in any razor irrespective of material, price and exclusivity.  Feel to hand is solid but not heavy and the machining is amazing, lending an impression of unending grip without more than a subtle hint of knurling.  There is the suggestion of a design theme present but have not been able to place it; perhaps Asian but unlike any encountered to date – yin and yang vibes ring throughout: the complexity of the various interacting curves, heft and lightness, capricious extravagance and Bauhaus simplicity all interplay in a way to evoke a unique impression that eludes pinning a theme upon.  Kudos to this new generation of boutique razor manufacturers comprehensively changing the rules of the game regarding design themes and elements – end users are blessed for the diversity of design they bring.
 
Technically this razor rings all the buzzers; contrary to many new designs, the head assembly is paper thin thereby making it incredibly maneuverable and visually controllable.  The razor is polished throughout – as in everywhere, under the cap, top of the baseplate, the threads – EVERYWHERE.  It is as though the person doing the machine work actually gave a damn, a real damn as in this is a gift for his father or only son damn – have only encountered 2 manufacturers to date so obsessed with visual perfection: Wolfman and Raw, neither being anywhere near the price point of the H&S.  Balance is incredible, which was a concern with the abbreviated knurling and extensive distal design elements.  The open comb teeth are incredibly well executed but especially so considering this 17-4 stainless steel!  I was surprised to learn the razor weighs only 102g in straight bar and 104g in OC, it feels more substantial yet pleasantly so. Were there an area for reasonable debate, it would be that the blade tabs are covered: surely, one can appreciate the aesthetique behind this but given the choice, prefer them exposed for easy removal of blade during cleaning.  Frankly, Aji could easily increase the proposed selling price by a factor plus – this is a big boy razor that easily commands a big boy price.
 
Grooming Dept supplied 2 tubs of their latest soaps: Aion (Nai base) and Asinus (Donkey base) for this passaround.  Given the buzz around the Nai base, used Aion exclusively for this test to determine an impression – and an impression it has made!  Nai really is the best soap encountered per the online buzz!  It whips up easily, has great cushion, glide and post shave unlike anything encountered even if the scent is not a favourite, it is livable.  Asinus is just, pure and simple, a great all around soap as equally home hydrating the skin during dry winters as being refreshing during hot summers.  Those unfamiliar with these soaps, please do use them and comment in your reviews but exercise the courtesy to scoop samples for loading and lathering OFF THE PUCK as this is a passaround and there is a flu outbreak – exercise discretion in considering your fellow shavers.
 
In total, I used the H&S for 3 3-pass shaves: first pass, Open Comb razor With the Grain: second pass, Straight Bar Against the Grain: and third pass, Straight Bar Across the Grain.  The first shave was with a Timor blade which was good, the second shave an Astra SP and the third shave a Gillette Nacet which was optimal.
 
17-4 razors tend to feel hard against the skin to my perspective but in a good way.  While Titanium is all the rage, find it less preferable than stainless as material to date even including a certain artisan making razors in Canada, haha.  The first shave with the H&S P076 OC felt a little harsh but by the second shave had adapted to the feel and found it pleasant.  Irrespective of blade, the SB was always a joy to use being equally as efficient and smooth with the Timor as the Astra as the Nacet.  As anticipated, the balance and maneuverability were exemplary, the blade feel magnificent and quality of the shave BBS spot on with neither nicks nor weepers, lasting a full 36 hours.
 
In conclusion, I could go on about the details of the shave but really, it was uneventful as regards the actual mechanics other than the razor provided incredible feedback and closeness without any harshness.  What was remarkable was the feel to hand, which was a tactile tour de force!  This is about as high a complement as can be given – shaving is not a hobby to me; rather, it is a chore that given an opportunity would be abandoned.  There are razors on the market requiring undivided attention to use or are absolutely dead to feel and mindless while being bulky.  The H&S P076 is akin to driving an old midengine Ferrari 246 or 355 or Porsche 993 – it does exactly what is wanted without punishing terribly for mistakes, makes even a boring daily routine fun and is a joy to touch and look at from every angle.  However, a daily driver like this demands an equally elegant garage: Aji please develop a suitably simplistically stylistic stand to complement these razors!


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Thanks for that writeup and photos.  Is that a plastic washer under the base plate? What purpose does that serve?
#39

Posting Freak
Peachtree City, GA
Yes it is. Protects the handle baseplate interface without affecting shave
#40
(This post was last modified: 04-26-2020, 12:20 AM by surfboat.)
would be interested in hearing where the 76 SB and OC blade feel falls compared to other razors. Just looking for ballpark i.e. if you like/dislike razor "X" then you may or may not like the 76.  

some emphasis has been placed on the difficulty in machining 17-4 but browsing some machining forums I'm left wondering if that is accurate? Not a big deal at the end of the day but can anyone speak to that?

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