Grooming Dept Mallard Perspective

It had been some time since last used Grooming Dept soaps.  The original releases of Nai in Aion, which remains an all-time scent favourite, Otium and Cedarwood were the last forays into the brand.  It wasn’t that Grooming Dept had fallen out of favour but rather that there were some changes being undertaken at the artisan that made releases far more infrequent and had discovered the ETHOS line, finding it works particularly well for my sensitive and damaged skin.

In the interim, the ongoing revolution in artisanal soaps has not only continued but also accelerated significantly.  Whereas there was once Grooming Dept sitting alone as the premiere soap line, especially factoring in post shave skin hydrating properties, within the past year and a half competition had supplanted the erstwhile budget innovator. At the premium end of the market was the emergence of ETHOS rendering Grooming Dept to a secondary position followed by significantly upgraded soaps from mass market stalwarts Wholly Kaw, Barrister & Mann&c that relegated Grooming Dept to top grouping amongst several peers although still a very good legacy soap. While there may have been new Grooming Dept releases during this time, remain unaware of any significant upgrades from Mo – it was a case of one artisan standing pat as others significantly advanced. 

And so it seemed to be that there was no response to competitive innovations until the long anticipated rerelease of Mallard was announced.  Truth told, have always viewed Grooming Dept in the same regard as boutique German breweries, which is to state offering an array of products appropriate to a season in harmony with nature.  While there are offerings that could be consumed year round, most befit seasonal weather: particularly seasonal was my perspective regarding Mallard.

Mallard is my friend Enzo’s favourite soap from day one of its initial release.  He spends nearly every day of Spring thru Fall either flying, motorcycling or especially boating when not working.  His lifestyle of outdoor leisure, where the sun’s radiance is magnified by reflection off roads, exposure through altitude or reflection off water, benefits greatly from the exorbitant and residual fat content in the original formulations of Mallard.  However, for my Spring through Fall lifestyle of active aerobic athleticism in near tropical heat and humidity being based in GA, the residual unctuous quality of earlier Mallard soaps was simply unbearable. When running 20 miles in 100 degree 90% humidity, the residual fat felt akin to wearing a balaclava.  Thus, while appreciating the fat content during shaving, once the task completed, had no desire for the post shave feel unless it dead of winter and an especially nasty day to boot.  Mo had always been good about creating semi-custom soap formulations off menu to accommodate the terrible seasonal swings of the SouthEast and my damaged and sensitive skin BUT if there was one Grooming Dept soap that could be used year round, it was Nai, easily my top Grooming Dept base over the past 2 years, remaining a favourite for its all-around excellence.

Well, Grooming Dept has responded and with vigour, the new Mallards have been out for about a month and I have been indeed blessed to have a Coconut Rum and Almond Vanilla.  For now, the focus will be on the base so people can appreciate how much the Mallard has changed.  Typically, when a base changes there are winners and losers from the perspective of those completely satisfied with the incumbent and those overjoyed the incumbent supplanted.  For those expecting such, prepare to be disappointed.  The new Mallard somehow retains everything good about past iterations whilst rinsing completely and cleanly, as impossible as that might seem.  Performed side-by-side trials with the Mallard most recently issued before the reformulation (which retained almost every aspect of the original formulation in end user qualities).  Can state the new Mallard base possesses all the cushion, glide, skin plumping properties of prior generation Mallards, almost acting in a regenerative capacity from an end user perspective – Hell if anything moreso than prior releases.  But, what was welcomed most by me and reestablishing Grooming Dept as the second best soap on the market at any price and near ultra-premium soap at a middle market price point is the now imparted zero residue clean rinsing character. 

Regarding scent, as ignorant as am regarding most life matters, am even more ignorant regarding scent.  Truth told, miss many of the subtleties people argue endlessly online – even when made aware in detail ad nauseam.  My failings clearly established, simply must share a couple points.  For one, as has been my experience for some time regarding Grooming Dept scents and soaps, they benefit mightily by airing open container for a couple days.  Not only does this allow the scent to waft about any room to the benefit of all that enter but it mellows the scent, allowing the constituents to blend more harmoniously which seems to be crucial to Grooming Dept for whatever reason; it also allows the base to fully settle aiding lather quality.  As regards the scents: once aired, the Coconut Rum is simply lovely - tropical without resembling a woman’s beach drink.  However, the Almond Vanilla is spectacular!  While not ready to compare it to ETHOS Safi, it not anywhere near that price range and best not so compete, it is mature, elegant, prepossessing and addictive.  For the money, may be the best adult unisex scent encountered in a soap.  When in university, dated a woman that went on to accomplish great things; her favourite drink was Amaretto with a splash of vanilla on the rocks.  This soap captures the scent perfectly.  Having shaved regularly with this puck for weeks now, it going to be miserable to be without – anybody selling a puck?

Had one to pick a must have soap besides ETHOS, this is it, period hard stop.  Is this stating Wholly Kaw Siero and Barrister & Mann Omnibus rubbish?  Seriously?!  Of course not; we live in a golden age of incredibly blessed soap artisans with the technological advancements in the humble soap business seemingly endless – dare we call it Mo’s Law?  Mo once advised to never hoard soap as the advances were so quickly coming as to render older versions obsolete in short order.  For somebody needing every advantage, I agree wholeheartedly with him but for the overwhelming majority of users, perhaps these advances are gilding the lily to borrow a political economy term.  In any case, having thought better of acquiring a Grooming Dept Pasion, now regret it based on reports.  But of the new soaps have used (and used all but the new GD Pasion), Grooming Dept Mallard is solidly the second best soap encountered at any price point and the clear price leader regarding value.

It had been some time since last used Grooming Dept soaps.  The original releases of Nai in Aion, which remains an all-time scent favourite, Otium and Cedarwood were the last forays into the brand.  It wasn’t that Grooming Dept had fallen out of favour but rather that there were some changes being undertaken at the artisan that made releases far more infrequent and had discovered the ETHOS line, finding it works particularly well for my sensitive and damaged skin.

In the interim, the ongoing revolution in artisanal soaps has not only continued but also accelerated significantly.  Whereas there was once Grooming Dept sitting alone as the premiere soap line, especially factoring in post shave skin hydrating properties, within the past year and a half competition had supplanted the erstwhile budget innovator. At the premium end of the market was the emergence of ETHOS rendering Grooming Dept to a secondary position followed by significantly upgraded soaps from mass market stalwarts Wholly Kaw, Barrister & Mann&c that relegated Grooming Dept to top grouping amongst several peers although still a very good legacy soap. While there may have been new Grooming Dept releases during this time, remain unaware of any significant upgrades from Mo – it was a case of one artisan standing pat as others significantly advanced. 

And so it seemed to be that there was no response to competitive innovations until the long anticipated rerelease of Mallard was announced.  Truth told, have always viewed Grooming Dept in the same regard as boutique German breweries, which is to state offering an array of products appropriate to a season in harmony with nature.  While there are offerings that could be consumed year round, most befit seasonal weather: particularly seasonal was my perspective regarding Mallard.

Mallard is my friend Enzo’s favourite soap from day one of its initial release.  He spends nearly every day of Spring thru Fall either flying, motorcycling or especially boating when not working.  His lifestyle of outdoor leisure, where the sun’s radiance is magnified by reflection off roads, exposure through altitude or reflection off water, benefits greatly from the exorbitant and residual fat content in the original formulations of Mallard.  However, for my Spring through Fall lifestyle of active aerobic athleticism in near tropical heat and humidity being based in GA, the residual unctuous quality of earlier Mallard soaps was simply unbearable. When running 20 miles in 100 degree 90% humidity, the residual fat felt akin to wearing a balaclava.  Thus, while appreciating the fat content during shaving, once the task completed, had no desire for the post shave feel unless it dead of winter and an especially nasty day to boot.  Mo had always been good about creating semi-custom soap formulations off menu to accommodate the terrible seasonal swings of the SouthEast and my damaged and sensitive skin BUT if there was one Grooming Dept soap that could be used year round, it was Nai, easily my top Grooming Dept base over the past 2 years, remaining a favourite for its all-around excellence.

Well, Grooming Dept has responded and with vigour, the new Mallards have been out for about a month and I have been indeed blessed to have a Coconut Rum and Almond Vanilla.  For now, the focus will be on the base so people can appreciate how much the Mallard has changed.  Typically, when a base changes there are winners and losers from the perspective of those completely satisfied with the incumbent and those overjoyed the incumbent supplanted.  For those expecting such, prepared to be disappointed.  The new Mallard somehow retains everything good about past iterations whilst rinsing completely cleanly as impossible as that might seem.  Performed side-by-side trials with the Mallard most recently issued before the reformulation (which retained almost every aspect of the original formulation in end user qualities).  Can state the new Mallard base possesses all the cushion, glide, skin plumping properties of prior generation Mallards, almost acting in a regenerative capacity from an end user perspective – Hell if anything moreso than prior releases.  But, what was welcomed most by me and reestablishing Grooming Dept as the second best soap on the market at any price and near ultra-premium soap at a middle market price point is the now imparted zero residue clean rinsing character. 

Regarding scent, as ignorant as am regarding most life matters, am even more ignorant regarding scent.  Truth told, miss many of the subtleties people argue endlessly online – even when made aware in detail ad nauseam.  My failings clearly established, simply must share a couple points.  For one, as has been my experience for some time regarding Grooming Dept scents and soaps, they benefit mightily by airing open container for a couple days.  Not only does this allow the scent to waft about any room to the benefit of all that enter but it mellows the scent, allowing the constituents to blend more harmoniously which seems to be crucial to Grooming Dept for whatever reason; it also allows the base to fully settle aiding lather quality.  As regards the scents: once aired the Coconut Rum is simply lovely, tropical without resembling a woman’s beach drink.  However, the Almond Vanilla is spectacular!  While not ready to compare it to ETHOS Safi, it not anywhere near that price range and best not so compete, it is mature, elegant, prepossessing and addictive.  For the money, may be the best adult unisex scent encountered in a soap.  When in university, dated a woman that went on to accomplish great things; her favourite drink was Amaretto with a splash of vanilla on the rocks.  This soap captures the scent perfectly.  Having shaved regularly with this puck for weeks now, it going to be miserable to be without – anybody selling a puck?

Had one to pick a must have soap besides ETHOS, this is it, period hard stop.  Is this stating Wholly Kaw Siero and Barrister & Mann Omnibus rubbish?  Seriously?!  Of course not; we live in a golden age of incredibly blessed soap artisans with the technological advancements in the humble soap business seemingly endless – dare we call it Mo’s Law?  Mo once advised to never hoard soap as the advances were so quickly coming as to render older versions obsolete in short order.  For somebody needing every advantage, I agree wholeheartedly with him but for the overwhelming majority of users, perhaps these advances are gilding the lily to borrow a political economic term.  In any case, having thought better of acquiring a Grooming Dept Pasion, now regret it based on reports.  But of the new soaps have used (and used all but the new GD Pasion), Grooming Dept Mallard is a solidly the second best soap encountered at any price point and the clear price leader regarding value.

Great read. Thx. Danny.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

DanLaw states:  "However, the Almond Vanilla is spectacular!  While not ready to compare it to ETHOS Safi, it not anywhere near that price range and best not so compete, it is mature, elegant, prepossessing and addictive.  For the money, may be the best adult unisex scent encountered in a soap."

Yep.  I like it too.  It actually surprised me.  Mo is getting pretty sophisticated when it comes to some of his scents.  Along with Mallard Almond Vanilla, I like really like Pasion and Mumtazz with its opoponax kicker.