#91

Vintage Shaver
Seattle, WA
(10-20-2017, 05:34 AM)ShadowsDad Wrote: Don't despair. Let's start at the beginning. Sorry, but that means I ask if the appliance is "plugged in". I don't mean to insult you with that.

Are the cells button tops (flat tops won't work*)? Have they been inserted with button tops "up"? Has the body of the light been fully screwed into the head? The switch light should have blinked when the 2 were screwed together, and then remained on unless you have defective switch LEDS.

If all of that checked out press and hold the switch. It should light and ramp up.

Assuming all of the above check marks have been made, contact The Miller in the Q8 thread and let him know. You won't be cast aside. If you need the link get back to me. You'll find the forum gents helpful until they get a new light to you.

*They won't work as they come from the factory as a flat top, but they can be made to work. If you have flat tops I can mod' them for you. I'm thinking you have flat tops and they simply won't make contact as they are. Pix will help. If you want to take this private that works too.

Brain, the cells are protected button tops, and I inserted them as instructed with the buttons up. I fully tightened the body and head together, but the switch light did not blink at all. Pressing the switch did nothing. I think I need to contact The Miller. Thanks for the suggestions.
John
#92

Member
Central Maine
(This post was last modified: 10-20-2017, 03:55 PM by ShadowsDad.)
Yup, it's dead then. I hate it when stuff like that happens. But you'll be taken care of.

It won't make you feel any better about it, but that's the only dead one I can remember hearing about. The biggest complaint(s) are uneven brightness in the switch LEDs or that the switch LEDs quit working after a few hours. And that was only about 2% and only in the first batch that went out.

Edit: I forgot... Please don't throw the non-working one away. The light is highly modifiable and while I or you can't get it working someone else might like to have it even in the condition it's in. And there are parts on it that are valuable. At the very least it's a host for different components. So you can either sell it or give it away for the cost of shipping. I think if a shingle was posted on the BLF it wouldn't last long until someone grabbed it.
Brian. Lover of SE razors.
#93

Member
Central Maine
John, here's something you might want to try. But first let me explain the light so that you know what I'm suggesting and why. The "juice" from the bottom of the cell flows through the springs that hold the cells against the head. From there it enters the base that gets screwed to the body. Then through the body where it contacts the outer ring at the head. If contact is broken between the base and body or body to head the current can't flow.

One of my brothers lights worked, then didn't, then started working again and all he did was to remove and replace the body onto the head. This may sound as though it couldn't be the problem, but it happens... Unscrew the body from the head and feel for any burrs in the silvery looking edge on the body. It it has any remove them. If you have fine sandpaper, lay it on a flat surface and lightly abrade that edge. Wipe the edge off to remove any dust. Use a Q-tip and some rubbing alcohol and clean the outer contact ring inside the head to remove anything that might be preventing contact. Even a piece of dust there can prevent it from working.
Brian. Lover of SE razors.
#94

Vintage Shaver
Seattle, WA
Thanks, Brian. It's too late for me to check that. On The Miller's instructions, I am shipping the light today to Tom Elfers to examine, and it is already boxed up. They are having a new one sent to me. Apparently this is the first true DOA light; so I won't really be surprised if Tom finds that the light I sent him actually works fine, and I was just not doing something quite right.
John
#95

Member
Central Maine
No problem. I got you into this and feel responsible. I knew that you'd be taken care of, but it's still the pits that it was you. I hope the shipping isn't on your dime. Knowing the BLF I doubt that it is. Good folks there.

Yes, I knew it was an extreme rarity. Lucky you, right? I so hoped for a better first experience for you. It wouldn't surprise me at all if it was dust or a piece of manufacturing crud on the contact ring. What a shame that it happened to you and not someone with some experience. I know you'll be taken care of, but I hope it's not a turn off for you.

On a positive note, when a working Q8 does arrive you'll like it a lot. I have yet to read of someone who didn't like it. My younger brother has told me on a number of occasions just how much he likes the light. He told me to order a GT (GigaThrower) and FW3A for him based on the Q8. It just beats the heck out of what he bought from wherever and he camps on his land a great deal.
Brian. Lover of SE razors.
#96

Member
Central Maine
(This post was last modified: 11-27-2017, 08:37 PM by ShadowsDad.)
Here's what anyone needs to know about the BLF GT aka GigaThrower affectionately named Giggles. You'll figure out why when you watch the video. It also demonstrates exactly what is meant by a light with "throw".

It's a 14 minute video. https://youtu.be/LStmsIyGldA

What will I use mine for? I have no idea, but it was too unique to pass up.

FWIW, the 555 first tier lights are all spoken for, but the 2nd tier lights @ $150 have some left (I think). I don't think that tier of lights is limited in number. At some point orders for the Group Buy will be closed and the light will be sold at full retail, $250. It uses 4 or 8 18650 cells and cells will be available at the time of purchase to ship inside the light. Using 4 cells will only affect runtime.
Brian. Lover of SE razors.
#97

Member
Central Maine
FWIW, the GT will be shipping in a week. Payments for the first 555 lights have been taken. Now we wait a little more. In under a month one will be in my hot little hands. But I have no idea what I'll use it for. I just couldn't resist such a unique light for such a low price in the group buy.
Brian. Lover of SE razors.
#98

Vintage Shaver
Seattle, WA
I received my replacement Q8, and this one works. Wow, is it ever bright! I doubt that I'll ever really need its full potential, but it's fun to have and play with.
John
#99

Member
Central Maine
I'm glad that they took care of you. I knew they would, I just didn't know if it could be fixed locally. What a bummer that you got a truly bad one. What a lousy experience to go through as a first experience.

Yup, same thoughts here about full brightness. Don't stare at it, but if you turn it on and back away, try looking into it. It can be used as a temporary weapon is my point. Generally I use it at full maximum efficiency and not max' output ( one blink of the switch light. In ramping I go to 2 blinks of the switch light then back it down to get one blink.). That does most outdoor things for me and the cells last an incredibly long time used that way. 2 blinks of the switch lights means it's moving into a more inefficient mode. I don't know of any BLF light that doesn't allow the LED to be overdriven. That's how they achieve the output. Using it at saner outputs also lengthens the life of the LED and not just cell charge. If the life at max' output might be 25k hours, throttling it back might result in 100k hours of life. Of course the light can still enter turbo mode with a double click. Yeah, it's nice to have that when needed.

I also have been using it as a nightlight (tail standing it) with a dome. On minimum output one doesn't even notice the drain on the cells. That was using 30Qs (3000mah), now I've gone to 3500mah "GA" cells and I'll notice the drain even less, but in theory the max' output won't be as much. Something that I rarely ever use anyway. I'll never notice the difference in output by eye. Using it with a dome also turns it into a credible "lantern" for a power outage. Staying within "one blink" makes a room not flooded with light but easily navigable. Using the 30Qs I could use the light for a nightlight every night and use it for outside illumination (rural Maine is truly dark other than what we make for light, or what's supplied by the moon), and after 2 weeks I'd still be at 4 volts as told to me by the light (3 clicks gives a voltage readout in blinks). I think with the GAs I'll check the cells once a month and even at that I bet I don't drop below 3.8 volts, still above 1/2 charge.

Of course ceiling bounce (tail standing) works for room illumination, but I've been using these domes and while not a precise fit they work fine and are heat resistant. https://www.batteryjunction.com/fenix-aod-l.html
A dome is more efficient for lighting a room than using ceiling bounce. The Q8 with a dome can make one a sort of Gandalf ("You shall not pass!" If you saw the movie.) , especially at full output which is pretty serious light output.

Anyway, I'm glad that you finally got a working Q8. It won't make you feel better but your light was a true rarity and maybe the only totally non functioning light of a thousand or so..
Brian. Lover of SE razors.
#100

Vintage Shaver
Seattle, WA
Brian, apparently my first Q8 was actually functional once it had been jiggered and smoothed and lubed, which I didn't know how to do. But the replacement they sent me worked right out of the box, which was a relief. Although there was a period of time when they temporarily forgot about me during the replacement process, a quick reminder got it going again. And there was no extra charge at all. Overall I was pleased and grateful for their help.

I've ordered one of the diffusers for it too; it sounds like a great idea for that rare power outage in addition to candles. Thanks again for all your help and suggestions.
John


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