Barrister and Mann

One of my favorites.  Genius.  Do you remember the controversy surrounding that song?  Almost to the level of Lennon's "more popular than Jesus" remark.

I'm not old enough to remember, so no. Rather points to the controversy today, though.

And, GloryUprising, I missed the second part of your question. No, no professional perfumer was consulted. This is entirely my own work, born of my own research and education. I have gotten to the point now where I feel that I am competent enough to begin building fully-fledged fragrances, so expect to see several more in the future.

Possessing the full run of your commercial work (I suspect there may be a few efforts that failed to see the light of day) I have to say it is fascinating to see how your scents have evolved over time.  This is not to say that earlier fragrances are in any way inferior (some still rank up there in my top 10), but through the various releases it is very clear how much effort you have put into refining the scent profiles. Fougère Gothic is truly an outstanding expression of your work. It is great to see your vision become reality. Keep it up.

Karl

That's very kind. Thank you.

...Rather points to the controversy today, though...

No kidding.  Man, I wish I could take back my comments because they were NOT taken as intended.  I need to work on my wording.

I'm assuming the uproar is on social media platforms or Reddit?

Will, I've thought about posting this for a while so here goes, I had to think for a while before I pre-ordered Fougere Gothique, not because I think I might not like the scent and not because its in the reserve base (which as you know I've had trouble with) but because of the graphic on the label. Its the devil. Thats it. I find it disturbing. We'll see how it goes once I get it, maybe I'll have to get a Priest to do an exorcism. I'm kidding on that point but seriously, I know its your business what you want to do with branding etc but you have to be aware that a creepy, satanic image on your label is going to offend some of your customers. I'm well aware that skulls and other dark imagery seems to sell very well these days particularly when associated with a darker, scent such as Fougere Gothique. So now I'm wondering what an Angel smells like and whether I can get such a soap/scent to restore some balance.

I too am not a fan of the packaging. Obviously, many who like it will roast me and say "dont buy it," and that is fair. It just has absolutely no appeal to me and the email I got from Barrister and Mann was a bit interesting as well, with the "Better to reign in hell than serve in Heaven" moniker. Not my thing. Obviously Will can sell what he wants how he wants but just as a regular customer its my two cents, the whole ensemble is going to be polarizing.

Along with the somewhat disturbing imagery and in my opinion, glorifying the devil and attempting to make it all sound cool, I find that we might be jumping the shark in the wet shaving community with the pricing trend of software. $26.99 for a 4 ounce soap? I noticed Cheshire went up two bucks (thankfully right after I ordered it at its lower price) but I find the more artisans bringing this type of luxury price to the table for 4 ounce soft soaps to completely put me off. Again, I'm going to get the same folks that say "dont buy it" or "let the market determine the price" and thats fine but I'm telling you right now, I'm in the market, I'm a customer and I'm not paying these kinds of prices for a 4 ounce SOFT soap. Tallow and Steel, L&L, and other companies are charging luxury prices for freaking 4 ounce SOFT SOAPS. We aren't talking about Tabac, DR Harris, MWF which have lasted me forever since my initial purchase due to their hardness we are talking about soaps that have only lasted me two seasons among a large rotation of soap. Latha Oceana, Latha Limon, B&M Cologne Russe, B&M Adagio are all at the end of their run or donuting after buying them last year. I have barely scratched the surface of DR Harris and Tabac and I've had them longer and use them use as much as the aforementioned soaps. Now 26.99 for a soap that might last me 30 or 40 shaves? We are jumping the shark ladies and gentlemen.

As someone who places equal importance to both Hell and Heaven, Devil and Priest (which is 0), I find the label interesting - I actually don't know. It is like going to a Iron Maiden concert and seeing Eddie.

But the price trend is also interesting. But some Chiseled Face soaps are going for 35, and B&M is far superior product compared to CFG. Also wholly kaw soaps (ass milk) are also 25 these days. Martin de Candre really seems to be a cheap ass product now and AoS tallow over at ebay seems like pay shipping only.

As someone who places equal importance to both Hell and Heaven, Devil and Priest (which is 0), I find the label interesting - I actually don't know. It is like going to a Iron Maiden concert and seeing Eddie.

But the price trend is also interesting. But some Chiseled Face soaps are going for 35, and B&M is far superior product compared to CFG. Also wholly kaw soaps (ass milk) are also 25 these days. Martin de Candre really seems to be a cheap ass product now and AoS tallow over at ebay seems like pay shipping only.

Sheesh I didn't know Wholly Kaw had products for that price, thanks for the info. I remember buying Sublime and it was like 13.99? Chiseled face has soaps that cost $35? Wow.

I really appreciate that you are pushing the envelope, and branching into new areas, Will! Although I consider myself more of a fanboy to your "simpler" scents, it is truly fascinating to see you try something daring, and shortly after see an influx of artisans following suit with their offerings.

Although you certainly weren't the first to do a fougere, after your release of Aromatique and Imperiale, huge numbers of artisans started exploring them.

Even though you weren't the first to offer a chypre, after Le Grande, suddenly other artisans were stepping up with their own interpretations.

So even though I will always miss Anise & Vetiver (PLEASE BRING IT BAAACK!), what you are doing is clearly influential and driving a lot of what is happening at the "avante garde" level of scents in the wetshaving arena. With how well you marketed Fougere Gothique, who knows what we'll see in the next few months to a year? More exciting things I hope!

A few simpler questions I had for you to wrap it up:

1) What is the "03" on the label to my LaVanille? Formulation?

2) With a Pregosaurus Rex wife (yes I know I will be murdered in my sleep for saying that), I am limping along on the Speick aftershave since she can't do any of the Barrister's Reserve scents. Please tell me the Caldey Island rendition is still on for September! Will it be the same date as the LLCW?

3) Have you ever considered working with something like neroli? I love all those hesperidic notes (specifically bergamot, petitgrain and neroli), and have always wondered what direction you would take it!

4) What's your favorite scent that has 5 notes or fewer?

Thanks so much again!

"Now 26.99 for a soap that might last me 30 or 40 shaves? We are jumping the shark ladies and gentlemen."

Yes.

$6.75 an ounce. Wow.

Some of these softer soaps have a lot of water still in them. Sure we can cure them ourselves but I've noticed prices rising only with some artisans. I have been testing a new soap as good as any made today and that will be $19 delivered conus. Another one is a top 1-3 soap in performance and one gets over 5 ounces for $17.

Barrister_N_Mann Taking a break from FG and looking ahead: As someone who never experienced the original scent of LLCW, how would you describe the balance between the scents? Is a particular scent more forward than the others?

"Now 26.99 for a soap that might last me 30 or 40 shaves? We are jumping the shark ladies and gentlemen."

Yes.

$6.75 an ounce. Wow.

Some of these softer soaps have a lot of water still in them. Sure we can cure them ourselves but I've noticed prices rising only with some artisans. I have been testing a new soap as good as any made today and that will be $19 delivered conus. Another one is a top 1-3 soap in performance and one gets over 5 ounces for $17.

vtmax what do you think of this trend? I've obviously stated how I feel about it but you have stated some facts about pricing increasing and I wonder where you stand? Are you cool with it?

EDIT: As a side note, if the soap lasted a minute I would not mind at all paying 17$ for 5 ounces. See, when I look at a Stirling or a Soap Commander and I'm looking at 2.00 or 2.50 per ounce, and in the case of Soap Commander its a harder soap and it is lasting forever, that justifies value to me. But when I use up a soap in a season or two and we are getting up on 5 and 6, even as much as $7 an ounce for a soft soap I have to take that into account.

I'm also not a fan of the branding on this one either. I figured it was going to be dark, just not that dark. The scent, however, is heavenly, which is obviously not what Will was going for, lol. I would buy it based on scent alone, but the price tag is up there. If you like Fougères and earthy scents, you'll definitely like this one. Very complex with a cologne-like vibe to it.