Atelier DURDAN Vestige pass around

Just dropped the razor off at the UPS store. Hope Jay enjoys it as much as I did.

The razor arrived today and looks great.
It certainly is beautiful and well made.
Had my first shave with the standard plate and was smooth but not super close. I will go with the ++ next shave.

Another shave this morning with the ++ plate.
It was very smooth and a lot closer than yesterday.
I think I got the correct angle today.
It really is a very cool design. I'm glad I could test because the ++ is really the plate for me.
I'm going to let my beard grow for for a couple days before the next shave.

Decided to have my last shave this morning with the ++ plate.
Very similar to yesterday, very smooth and close.
I really like this razor. I think I would need a +++ plate to justify the purchase.
I contacted the maker by email and received the response that they are working on a +++ but it is still a couple months out.
My final thoughts are that this is a great razor and very well designed and made.
I'm thankful to Cornbread and the maker for allowing this pass around to happen.

He's working on the bronze and copper release first

++

Feels like a fabulous products. Any open spots for the pass around. Am Boston based if that helps.

Initial assessment of the Vestige +++ plate

While the ++ plate is quite capable of delivering extended BBS durations, at times it can feel a bit labored in use. This condition was most noticeable when encountering heavier growth and high density regions of the beard terrain. The result would typically require a combination of touch ups and buffing. The production ++ plate presents differently than my memory of it from the pass around. It was as if the efficiency was incrementally reduced, while the usable shaving angle increased. And this was the core impetus to order the +++ plate.

Now having shaved with the +++ plate for multiple sessions, I do believe it offers a distinct increase in efficiency. The initial shave immediately invoked memories of the ++ plate from the pass around. And each subsequent session reinforced a freedom in maneuverability, with an enhanced sense of ease in tackling difficult beard terrain. This translated into a reduction in required touch ups and buffing. However, the most demanding regions still required light touch ups and were accompanied by slight increases in resistance when conducting ATG strokes. Some of this may be related to an important consideration for this plate: maintaining a usable shaving angle. Similar to my experience with the ++ pass around plate, the +++ seems to seek a more specific band of shaving angle. And moving outside of that range can quickly result in reduced smoothness and cutting effectiveness. My normal approach is to align the razor with the angular sloping plane of the vestige head, and then slightly back off of that angle. The only other adjustment is a slight riding of the cap. The net result when executed well is an efficient and smooth shaving experience. And I would argue "apparent" smoothness is higher than the ++ plate given stroke effectiveness. BBS duration has averaged around the 13 hour mark, and early growth is typically limited to the highest density areas.

While this increased efficiency is quite welcome, I also monitored for any negative side effects from back to back daily sessions. The longest uninterrupted sequence to date is four back to back sessions. Other than minor feedback on the initial session or two, while adjusting technique and pressure, there were no obvious issues. But I do wonder if extended daily sessions could present a cumulative effect given the level of efficiency. I suspect pressure could be the largest contributor as the razor is deceptively efficient and might lull someone into reduced vigilance. I had to make a conscious adjustment, as I had likely been adding pressure to overcome the ++ limitations in key areas. Outside of any potential cumulative effects, the +++ plate maintained its low aggression demeanor with an occasional catch of a blemish. The only other injury I recall was a couple of weepers when finding my way on angle and ATG strokes in the mustache region.

Reflecting on the experience to date, I would choose the +++ plate as my primary configuration. But this comes with a couple of important caveats: 1) Over time and comparative conversations, I believe my beard profile is more demanding than the average; 2) the angle required for maximum effectiveness has been relatively easy to discover and maintain; and 3) I am focused on high duration BBS outcomes. And just as relevant, I am simply a single data point in the sea of shavers. I plan to order another Vestige and will definitely configure it with the +++ plate. Having the ++ could be a useful addition for days when I might not be shaving at full growth or need to conduct a follow up session sooner than normal. The ++ plate also exhibits a unique superpower to cleave and buff away the mustache region in a safe and effective manner. Something no other razor can quite match. The Vestige sits in the top tier of my razor collection, and I find myself reaching for it more than the La Faulx. I only wish there were a few more sources and options for GEM blades, but the Vestige seems to tame the profile of this blade format.

Pleasant shaves to all.