Analyzing The Wet Shaving Market In 2019

Let me make a Farmer's Almanacesque type guess:  we may see a big push to artisan soaps that cost far less as the market is now "eating itself". B&M "kissed" the $28 mark with their latest intro and I see/hear many stating "Whoa!!". Latha "resurrection" coming? 

Hence the interest in samples.  I'm willing to wager that the majority of wet shavers who order samples never purchase the full size product based on the sample.  Its their model - given the number of soaps the average wet shaver has (at least those active on forums) it will still take them years to work through a single sample.  And if, as often happens, they don't care for the scent and/or of the sample then the loss is small.  They will have a large number of samples and a small number of full size pucks.  It makes economic sense.  I am not a sample buyer, I buy a full size puck and I have a significant number of soaps that have been lathered only once and several that have never been lathered at all because I did not care for either or both of the scent or performance.  I don't want to do the math but every time I go down to the basement all of those soaps call out to me mockingly "you should have bought a sample"...ok, not literally because that would be scary but you know what I mean.  

Another trend I've seen is artisans getting into the EDT/EDP line as those sell for a significantly higher price.  I don't care for that much scent (I've tried but its not my thing) but for those who do like that sort of thing its great.  I don't particularly like it when I see an artisan neglecting their original products to focus on EDPs, however, if the economics are driving them in that direction who am I to criticize?

I think there could also be another aspect that you didn't consider. Let's say an artisan, I don't know but let's call him Shawn hypothetically, makes aftershave and fragrances, but Shawn's sales of aftershave and shaving products fall off dramatically while the sales of his fragrances take off to much critical acclaim in the fragrance world, allowing him to really push the envelope in the most creative aspect of what he does. This hypothetical Shawn would probably be foolish to double down and invest his time, energy and money into a stagnating element of his business by all accounts of business practice when there is another segment in which he is receiving high acclaim and growing sales, it would seem.

All this is completely hypothetical, of course, but if it were true...Shawn would probably make a lot of his business professors that he had in college question their existence if he were to do anything other than shift his focus into the fragrance side of the business, I'd imagine.

Edit: And yeah, fragrances do cost more. They also cost more to make and have more expensive packaging. But I would bet this Shawn character would have people from the fragrance world tell him that they hesitated to check out his fragrances at first because they were so much cheaper than other fragrances on the market that they just assumed they wouldn't be as good as they were.

Alright hypothetical Shawn, you knew I was talking about you but if you read the last sentence of my post then you would see that I did take that other aspect into consideration.  I fully expect all artisans, including hypothetical ones, to act in their rational economic best interest.  While this may move you in directions that I personally am not interested in and it might make me sad on one level (ie, the selfish what about me level) it makes me happy to see you and other artisans achieving a degree of self actualization and economic success that may not be possible in the traditional wet shaving space alone.  Lets be serious, most wet shavers are looking for the cheapest, effective product they can get.  Thats not necessarily a bad thing because shaving is a daily activity and the shaving products are often viewed as staples that people are prepared to spend only a limited amount on.  Ive always thought that your products were not only the best post shave products in wet shaving on both performance and creative scent/fragrance, but that they also represented excellent value.  Seriously, I'd have paid more, however, there's a market and you have to price yourself in that market and once you have its hard to shift upwards without some whiney push back.   I never went to business school but its obvious if you're paying attention that people will pay more for products they consider to be "luxury" products than they are for staples.  And like it or not you are competing in some regards with aqua velva.  I personally would never place your provisions line of products on that level but neither would I use aqua velva and yet I see aqua velva on the shelves so somebody is using that stuff.  

Long ramble but to sum up, I'm delighted to watch your business evolve in directions that you find economically profitable and also personally enjoyable and fulfilling.  I always have and still do wish you all the success in the world. 

Alright hypothetical Shawn, you knew I was talking about you but if you read the last sentence of my post then you would see that I did take that other aspect into consideration.  I fully expect all artisans, including hypothetical ones, to act in their rational economic best interest.  While this may move you in directions that I personally am not interested in and it might make me sad on one level (ie, the selfish what about me level) it makes me happy to see you and other artisans achieving a degree of self actualization and economic success that may not be possible in the traditional wet shaving space alone.  Lets be serious, most wet shavers are looking for the cheapest, effective product they can get.  Thats not necessarily a bad thing because shaving is a daily activity and the shaving products are often viewed as staples that people are prepared to spend only a limited amount on.  Ive always thought that your products were not only the best post shave products in wet shaving on both performance and creative scent/fragrance, but that they also represented excellent value.  Seriously, I'd have paid more, however, there's a market and you have to price yourself in that market and once you have its hard to shift upwards without some whiney push back.   I never went to business school but its obvious if you're paying attention that people will pay more for products they consider to be "luxury" products than they are for staples.  And like it or not you are competing in some regards with aqua velva.  I personally would never place your provisions line of products on that level but neither would I use aqua velva and yet I see aqua velva on the shelves so somebody is using that stuff.  

Long ramble but to sum up, I'm delighted to watch your business evolve in directions that you find economically profitable and also personally enjoyable and fulfilling.  I always have and still do wish you all the success in the world. 

Ha, well I should have pointed out that I was responding to this comment but addressing a criticism that I frequently receive. I definitely will keep the shaving line alive, and even though my sales have steadily dropped, I do take pride in that I helped lead the charge towards making aftershaves that are more than alcohol and fragrance in the artisan community. But it's not like I am not making aftershave anymore. My scents are in shaving soaps still and they used to not be. And I still have more releases in the Provisions line than I do in the Parfums line. But I've learned many times that you're bound to get backlash from anyone who doesn't want you to invest your time and effort into something, even if it brings you great joy and success because, really, I am selfishly pursuing joy just like anyone else would selfishly pursue joy.

But really, there's only so much money that I can afford to lose on something. I'm not a rich man, and I can't afford to basically set a few hundred dollars on a shelf and just watch it sit there. And to be perfectly honest, I make about $0.50 per shaving soap sold with a scent of mine in it and the shaving soap is a poor carrier (understatement of the century) of scent, so it's not really gratifying to me creatively or financially. And soaps outsell aftershave usually about 3 to 1 on average, it seems, and how many threads do you see on this forum about soaps and hardware vs. aftershave? But still, I am releasing new Provisions lines with matching shaving soaps consistently still, despite the decreased demand. I have a new fougère coming to the permanent Provisions line on September 28 called Weinstrasse, in fact, with aftershave and shaving soap. I have more releases with accompanying shaving products than otherwise. So I can't say I can totally understand the backlash I've received from the shaving community, but it is what it is. If you've noticed, I've become less involved in the shaving community because I've gotten a bit tired of taking my lumps and I would prefer to just focus on the things that make me happy and not on the things that do the opposite.

Oh well, it is what it is. If having an aspect in my life that brings me success, accolades and a sense of personal accomplishment makes people so resentful that it overshadows the fact that I'm still doing the thing that they want me to do, so be it. I'm going to do me and I've realized that I shouldn't worry about anything otherwise because that's all I can really control in the end.

I made a post some time back on my personal observations on this same topic. I also believe that many people may have felt the same way and the reverberations are "trickling up".

I dont buy samples, but I probably should have. my wallet would be heavier had I done so. I know there are master perfumers that are masquerading as soapers too, and feel that the success of one business is feeding the creativity, if not the funds, of their other projects. But I just couldn't keep up with it all.

It was a fun ride. Now I'll just watch the kids play and watch from the ground.

https://damnfineshave.com/thread-i-am-ta...e%2Bdragon

Thanks hawns , have you considered cloning yourself?

Are you serious about $0.50/unit from collaboration soaps??  Wow.  I'll be honest, I buy the DG collab soaps BECAUSE of the CL scent and for no other reason.  Yes its a good soap base but there are several as good or better out there.  Its the scent that makes me click buy.  I can see why you would rather spend your time on the Parfum line.  You'd be a little crazy otherwise.  A similar thing happened with my family doctor recently.  He started doing aesthetics (botox etc) a number of years back and he eventually was running two successful clinics on the side.  He was scaling back his medical practice making it harder to get in to see him.  We had a good relationship and when talking to him about it he confided in me that 90% of his income came from those clinics.  He eventually stopped practicing medicine to focus exclusively on his aesthetics clinics.  Yes, it was an inconvenience to have to find a new doctor but if he'd continued forgoing significant income for himself and his family so he could continue giving the likes of me our annual prostate exam, I'd have thought him crazy.  

I think its great that you are getting joy and fulfillment from doing what you do in the Parfum line and I encourage you to keep doing it.  Its so rare nowadays that people can honestly say that.  I've always wondered if the double edged sword nature of social media these days was really worth it for artisans.  You may hear positive feedback from a small percentage of your happy customers but it seems that every single sob with a bone to pick is right there telling you in detail what is wrong with you, your product, your business model, your dog and whatever else may be on their minds at the moment.  We're all human and we've all seen one artisan after another step back from social media or specific forums whether its because of abusive customers or just pure time management.  A little common decency goes a long way

Oh well, it is what it is. If having an aspect in my life that brings me success, accolades and a sense of personal accomplishment makes people so resentful that it overshadows the fact that I'm still doing the thing that they want me to do, so be it. I'm going to do me and I've realized that I shouldn't worry about anything otherwise because that's all I can really control in the end.

I think that those resentful people have issues completely unrelated to shaving or its associated products. What you describe is not normal behavior. Perhaps they should be more appreciative of the aromatherapy opportunities your scents afford. If they are not, then it is of no consequence. There are plenty of people who like to smell nice and appreciate good scents, angry children notwithstanding.

It will be interesting to see where the market will go  - Mo of Grooming Dept just announced across the board price cuts to his shaving soaps.  $24 regardless of base and an increase of the amount of all soaps to 5 oz from 4 oz.  Thats roughly a 25% price cut not including the reduction in price itself.  Personally I think his products are worth the price otherwise I wouldn't have several of his soaps.  In a way that is throwing down the gauntlet to the other artisans operating at the same level as GD, ie, the top tier soaps.  Of the bargain priced soaps mentioned above I would place only Mystic Water close to the same level as GD and the $11.32 price is for a refill puck without the tub.  Its $14.15 with the tub and whether you buy it with the tub or without, you still have to manually squash the soap into a tub.  Not a big deal but it will take you a little time and time is money is convenience.  I would put Barrister and Mann, Tallow+Steel, and a few others in that category.  Lets see what happens.  I wonder what the downward pressure on price will do to the likes of MDC or Panna Crema, which are pretty good but I don't think they're any better than the above mentioned soaps.  Maybe they will just chug along at their crazy too high prices.  

So if what's coming is a divergence with shaving staples falling in price for competitive reasons and the luxury products  (EDP/EDT) rising it will be interesting to see.  Perhaps the EDP market could be expanded to include fragrance for women as well as men.  Why not?  Only a certain percentage of men are interested in EDPs while I suspect a much larger percentage of women are into that.  I know that Chatillon Lux already has marketed some shaving products specifically to women although that seems to no longer be the case.  Its possible that it may be easier to reach women as branch off of the Parfum line than it may have been from the men's post shave provisions line.  

I'm also seeing an increase in hair pomades which is interesting.  A lot of the young guys with their thick, lustrous hair use hair product off some kind.  I've found that with age my hair, while essentially remaining on my head, has got a little lighter and harder to manage.  I won't comment on the colour   I don't care for the feel of the pomades I've tried but I have had some success with D.R.Harris Bay Rum Hair Tonic with oil.  I would think that if you're into the personal care market you could certainly expand beyond beard and hair into skin, face body etc.  The question though is always, would it be worth the artisan's cost of expanding their lineup?  One strength in the wet shaving space is that the most successful artisans are very focussed on the one thing they do well and stepping out of that business model could be risky.

I think another challenge going forward will be the perennial issue of the tension between those artisans who are trying to make a go of the business on a full time basis and those who are doing it as a sideline.  There are very different economic drivers involved.  There is a difference between wondering if you're going to be able to make payroll this month or put food on your family's table and wondering how much extra cash you're going to have3 and whether it justifies your investment of your time outside of your normal working hours.  Don't get me wrong, there is a definite cost even for the part timers - they're taking time away from family and loved ones and kids don't stay kids forever.  I think this challenge will continue to be a part of the wet shaving market.

Marko Thank you for the kind words.

Not only increasing jar content and lowering prices, there will be one more announcement as the release date gets closer! I also want to mention the new Fortis formula which I announced: $15 per 5oz jar of tallow soap (not a refill). 

I believe competition is wonderful. I'm committed to push towards making mainstream products such the Fortis formula but also continue to vault the performance of the top tier formulas.

It will be interesting to see where the market will go  - Mo of Grooming Dept just announced across the board price cuts to his shaving soaps.  $24 regardless of base and an increase of the amount of all soaps to 5 oz from 4 oz.  Thats roughly a 25% price cut not including the reduction in price itself.  Personally I think his products are worth the price otherwise I wouldn't have several of his soaps.  In a way that is throwing down the gauntlet to the other artisans operating at the same level as GD, ie, the top tier soaps.  Of the bargain priced soaps mentioned above I would place only Mystic Water close to the same level as GD and the $11.32 price is for a refill puck without the tub.  Its $14.15 with the tub and whether you buy it with the tub or without, you still have to manually squash the soap into a tub.  Not a big deal but it will take you a little time and time is money is convenience.  I would put Barrister and Mann, Tallow+Steel, and a few others in that category.  Lets see what happens.  I wonder what the downward pressure on price will do to the likes of MDC or Panna Crema, which are pretty good but I don't think they're any better than the above mentioned soaps.  Maybe they will just chug along at their crazy too high prices.  

So if what's coming is a divergence with shaving staples falling in price for competitive reasons and the luxury products  (EDP/EDT) rising it will be interesting to see.  Perhaps the EDP market could be expanded to include fragrance for women as well as men.  Why not?  Only a certain percentage of men are interested in EDPs while I suspect a much larger percentage of women are into that.  I know that Chatillon Lux already has marketed some shaving products specifically to women although that seems to no longer be the case.  Its possible that it may be easier to reach women as branch off of the Parfum line than it may have been from the men's post shave provisions line.  

I'm also seeing an increase in hair pomades which is interesting.  A lot of the young guys with their thick, lustrous hair use hair product off some kind.  I've found that with age my hair, while essentially remaining on my head, has got a little lighter and harder to manage.  I won't comment on the colour   I don't care for the feel of the pomades I've tried but I have had some success with D.R.Harris Bay Rum Hair Tonic with oil.  I would think that if you're into the personal care market you could certainly expand beyond beard and hair into skin, face body etc.  The question though is always, would it be worth the artisan's cost of expanding their lineup?  One strength in the wet shaving space is that the most successful artisans are very focussed on the one thing they do well and stepping out of that business model could be risky.

I think another challenge going forward will be the perennial issue of the tension between those artisans who are trying to make a go of the business on a full time basis and those who are doing it as a sideline.  There are very different economic drivers involved.  There is a difference between wondering if you're going to be able to make payroll this month or put food on your family's table and wondering how much extra cash you're going to have3 and whether it justifies your investment of your time outside of your normal working hours.  Don't get me wrong, there is a definite cost even for the part timers - they're taking time away from family and loved ones and kids don't stay kids forever.  I think this challenge will continue to be a part of the wet shaving market.

This makes good sense to me.  After reading yesterday's string of three posts by dominicr and hawns, I surfed over to Fragrantica and did a quick search on "Chatillon Lux".  Thirteen items popped up.  They had as high an average rating as the few brands I've looked at a lot, although understandably without a great many reviews yet.  I did not check which fragrances are current, but of the 13 shown, only three were listed as men-only, eight were unisex, and two women.  This, and the pomades that Marko mentioned, seem to signal a shift from shaving per se to grooming in general - all the things that make a customer look, smell, and feel good.  And so much has changed since, say, when Geo. F. Trumper opened for business in the Mayfair district, that sales to women would be expected to grow.  Any reservoir of customers will attract capital investment like a magnet attracts iron.

I think Grooming Dept's recent announcements also signal a drive towards expansion, though not yet into perfumes.  As I was writing this, I saw Mohammad's post, so you now know about Fortis, and that it will sell at $15 for a 5 oz jar.  Of course, it remains to be seen how well Fortis is received, but I am going to be an optimist for now and assume things go fairly well.  That said, if you read the first page of the Fortis announcement thread you may infer, as I did, that the strategy for Fortis includes putting a smaller portion of the cost into fragrance so that a greater portion can go into lather.  To some extent, I see Fortis as an entry level to the brand, one that I would expect to broaden the customer base and eventually generate sales at all price points.  Another big announcement, accompanying the price changes, is the expansion of free shipping to Canada and the EU, and the introductions of locality based minimums for free shipping.  Unless I miss my guess, there will be talk in various quarters about which customers gain and lose and how much, but regardless, the changes will certainly encourage larger orders.  To me that is a sign of a vendor who sees the need to grow and who both wants and expects to increase volume.  

I wonder if these two examples signal a shift to larger sized "artisans", which, getting back to Marko's remarks, will put pressure on smaller artisans and hobbyists.  Going along with hawns's remarks, perhaps economics will drive our dominant artisans away from being "niche" providers - at least on the software side - and to some extent drive us along with them.

I wonder if these two examples signal a shift to larger sized "artisans", which, getting back to Marko's remarks, will put pressure on smaller artisans and hobbyists.  Going along with hawns's remarks, perhaps economics will drive our dominant artisans away from being "niche" providers - at least on the software side - and to some extent drive us along with them.

I doubt that selling one type of product to an extremely limited marketplace (e.g. wetshaving hobbyists from the forums) would be a recipe for long term success. The artisans with staying power will be those with more than just shaving soaps, and who develop a customer base beyond the forum wetshavers. Many artisans have added beard care prodcuts to their lineup. As more men shift from being clean shaven to wearing beards, it makes sense to diversify and sell products to them, as well.

I think the whole "artisan" label thing has been overhyped to the point that it is meaningless, much like "natural". Whether or not soapmakers remain "artisans", what matters is making an acceptable profit by selling a quality products at a reasonable price. Those that find that nexus will be around in the long run, the rest won't.

Hobbyists are a different case altogether. They are not under any pressure, as they make shaving soap for fun rather than as a livelihood. They can tolerate breaking even or even a moderate loss. They can also tolerate closing if the proprietor's interests or priorities change. How many of the hobbyist shaving soap makers from ten years ago are still around?

I just saw on Facebook where A&E is launching "A new kind of shaving soap for the budget conscious consumer.". It's aptly called Face Spackle. 

You can see it on their Facebook page (if you have Facebook).